If you have ever been to the United States, you have probably spent some time dining at a hotel restaurant or having a drink at the lobby bar. On the other hand, if you live in Italy, it has always been quite hard to see Italian hotels as places to spend leisure time if you’re not staying there as a guest. Continue reading “How Milan’s top hotels are wooing non-guests with these five luxury experiences”
It’s January 22, 2019.
Every year the Canadian magazine specialized in sustainability, Corporate Knights, ranks the top 100 most sustainable companies in the world. The official ranking is released at the World Economic Forum, one of the most important economic and political meetings for almost 50 years. The magazine’s analysis includes an evaluation of more that 7500 different companies with over $1 million in revenues, through 21 key performance factors: innovation capacity, percentage of women on board, waste productivity, employee management and supplier performance.
The index is seen as one of the leading benchmarks for corporate sustainability world-wide, so being ranked is a valuable recognition. Moreover, according to the Branding Institute, the Corporate Knights’ Global 100 Index is the best-ranking index of the world’s most sustainable corporations, for its relevant methodology, insight and trustworthiness.
The world’s most sustainable fashion luxury company is: Kering Group.
Beaten only by a Danish bioscence company, Chr. Hansen Holding, the French group has an overall score of 81,55% out of 100%. This nomination makes Kering the most sustainable company in the fashion industry and the second most sustainable company in the world. Kering’s brands Gucci, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, Pomellato and Brioni have made luxury industry history. Now they are continuing to make history by introducing a new core value: sustainability.
The group has made an incredible effort last year, jumping from the 47th place in 2018 index to the 2nd. Inditex, founded by Amancio Ortega Zara owner, and Adidas are the only two other companies in the luxury, apparel and accessories industry which made the list with 54th place and 84th place respectively.
So why Kering, among all the others, has been named?
The group is crafting tomorrow’s luxury starting from three pillars that shape the French company’s 2025 Sustainability Strategy: Care, Collaborate, Create. These pillars have been included into the Environmental Profit & Loss, EP&L, which guides the company’s choices in order to reduce its environmental impact.
The EP&L is applied in three stages: establishment of environmental impacts, establishment of models for diverse and complex group operations and supply chains and support in decision-making. This work tool allows the group, from the beginning of the supply chain, to have insight on their cost impact, to highlight the challenges, the opportunities and understanding how the company can work on its environmental impact on the planet. The fashion industry is responsible of the 20% of global water waste and of 10% of carbon dioxide emissions, making it the second-most polluting sector in the world.
This circle has to be changed.
And Kering has been the first one in fashion luxury, across the entire group, to introduce working tools that can mark the supply chain and develop a better strategy for the company and for the planet, creating a “win-win deal.” The French company in fact acquired more than 40% of its products from sustainable certificated sources, and 60% of its board is made up of women.
“Luxury and sustainability are one and the same”
François-Henri Pinault, Kering president and CEO.
Posted and written by Martina Tarantini.
- At most luxury ski resorts, sport has to marry elegance, and luxury has to meet functionality. The inspiration for the outfit? Skiing, mountains and everything that makes you immediately picture yourself getting a winter tan on the terrace of a chalet on the snowy peaks.
Here is a list of seven of the most glamorous ski apparel brands sported on the slopes of top luxury ski resorts like Aspen, Sankt Moritz and Courchevel.
In a sporty environment that has been drenched with luxury living since day one, you can count on paying quite a bit.
In this new Alpine-inspired collection, Chanel codes pop out of the sporty lines, the Norwegian soft sweaters, the soft padded and luxe down jackets, ski suits, overalls, fur boots and backpacks all sporting the double C.
Bogner is still bringing the most stylish outfits on the snow, proposing style and function on the mountains since 1932. The German brand traces its heritage to World Cup racing, and it’s been the official outfitter of the German Ski Association since 1952.
3. Perfect moment sport
Perfect Moment offers retro silhouettes, bold athletic colors and a high performance lifestyle clothing that can be worn on and off the slopes. This brand is also dedicated to supporting the protection of the Arctic Polar Bear.
The Dsquared2 ski collection brings its strong attitude to the chicest slopes and après ski clubs. The collection proposes men’s and women’s pieces designed for snowboarders, skiers and especially for those who prefer the apres ski scene.
Moncler in its Haute Montagne collections always presents a whole winter wardrobe, from ski to city essentials. Creating a sleek and sporty collection, in which vintage inspired forms meet tech detail-driven function.
6. Louis Tranker
Luis Trenker is inspired by the clothes that characterize the Alto-Adige tradition. Thanks to the combination of natural materials with an innovative design, the brand ensures at the same time an atmosphere of authenticity and distinction.
Salzburg has always loved and honoured its folk costumes, but some folkwear manufacturers more than others nurture this tradition and combine it successfully with modern elements. One of the absolute greatest amongst folk-fashion manufacturers is Goessl.
Comfortable, cheeky and fashionable, these shoes convince with a mix of classique design, fahionable colors and great comfort.
No more excuses not to be stylish on the slopes!
By Federica Pesci
If I think about my grandmothers, one of the first things that comes to my mind is the fur. I’ve seen thousands of pictures of these amazing women wearing long fur coats and smiling like crazy. For them, fur was a status symbol, an arrival point.
Nowadays, however, everything has changed. The value of this garment as a luxury item is rapidly decreasing, thanks to the anti-fur message amplified by social media (where the fear of being attacked due to a “wrong” belief is really high) and a new awareness among millennial consumers. As Sandra Campos, chief executive at Diane Von Furstenberg, said: “We don’t need real fur to have a status symbol anymore”. The brand became 100% fur-free in early October 2018.
But the anti-fur movement isn’t so recent. In 1997 Calvin Klein decided to remove fur from its collections, and in the same period, PETA launched a campaign called “Rather go naked than wear fur” (that is still used) promoted by the most famous models in the world (like Naomi Campbell, Elisabetta Canalis, Pink, Khloe Kardashian…). Then, since the 2000s, a lot of brands started to remove fur, impressed by sabotage made by activists. For example, in September 2017 Burberry’s London Fashion Week was interrupted by 250 protesters; a year after, the English brand decided to be fur-free.
But all of these changes involved also bigger realities. First, Yoox Net-A-Porter Group became fur-free in 2017, and then the city of San Francisco established that from this January all fur sales would be banned.
The impact of all of this was massive. One of the pioneers of the movement, Stella McCartney, said: “It’s about time that the fashion industry woke up to the fact that fur is cruel, barbaric and simply incredibly old-fashioned and unfashionable”. And added that all of this anti-fur trend seems that “the entire industry [is] working together for the betterment of the planet and the better of animal welfare”.
Anyway, we all know that leather and shearling are also animal products, so the companies aren’t so “fur-free” and “animal free” as they claim. But as Dan Mathews, senior vice president of PETA, said “It’s definitely a big step. We would love to see people design without leather and without any animal products. But what’s happening now as these designers have shed their fur lines, it starts the ball rolling.”
But is fake fur the right choice?
From the point of view of a lot of designers, like Karl Lagerfeld and Dries Van Noten, fake fur is incredibly polluting.
The IFF (International Fur Federation) is trying to convince designers and suppliers to leave fake fur and use fur again. The CEO, Mark Oaten, explained “Our product is totally natural, and even if it has chemicals added to it, it biodegrades. […] The other product is made of fibres and materials which will not biodegrade.” And for people who say that tanning fur is toxic, Oaten clarified that the industry is studying new ways to create a biodegradable tan.
And this is not the only issue.
First of all, consider the fate of the workers in the fur sector. “People who want to suppress the fur industry — if they have enough money to make an income for all the people who work in that industry, OK,” said Lagerfeld in an interview. If the sector dies, all these specialized labourers are going to “die” with it.
Then, as Francois Souchet (Project Manager at The Ellen MacArthur Foundation) said, another aspect to consider is water. Fake fur is made of synthetic materials that “shed plastic microfibers, when they are used and washed, in the environment. Those microfibers are too small to be filtered at any point of the water treatment system…and basically, all those microfibers end up in our oceans contributing to ocean plastic pollution”.
At least, data are clear. In 2017 fur generated global retail sales of $30 billion, according to figures supplied by IFF. The emerging markets, like China or Russia, are the biggest “fan” of this fabric.
So, is it really possible to remove it from the fashion world? And is it the right choice?
The future will judge.
A unique example of Luxury experience business for me was the Crowdfunding. “Crowdfunding is a way of raising money to finance projects and businesses. It enables fundraisers to collect money from a large number of people via online platforms”. This system brings together a variety of backers/investors and entrepreneurs who want to sponsor the product. In this manner, a person who would like to sponsor his/her product has the chance to look for many investors on a single platform and to earn a few dollars or thousands of dollars, depending on how much the product is valued.
One of the most popular and famous crowdfunding websites is Kickstarter. The company was created in 2008 by Perry Chen, Yancey Strickler and Charles Adler and the motto for their website was and still is: “Help bring creative projects to life”. Nowadays, more than 141,036 projects have been successfully funded with pledges of more than 3.5 billion dollars, and 14,382,333 million total backers have sponsored the products.
With crowdfunding we can discuss a unique example of e-commerce because any one person can buy or sponsor his/her own product simultaneously, which is not possible if we think about the most famous e-commerce websites such as Amazon. On these websites a person can only buy a product. I have personally felt the effect of e-commerce from the creation of my product called Eskak. Eskak is the first Luxury model of modular 3d-assembled chess pieces which were developed by myself and my business partner. The chessboard and pawns are made of natural plywood, and have been carved using the latest generation laser machine and then refined through a process of filing and elimination of the excess wood.
By placing it in Kickstarter, we were suddenly face-to-face with the many rules and regulations which inhabit the e-commerce/crowdfunding world. On the website, a person who would like to get their product sponsored must first choose their funding goal. The funding goal consists of the amount of money that a creator needs to successfully complete their product. Secondly, the person must choose the time limit for acquiring this money (from 1 to 60 days). The creators of the website suggest choosing the “30 day” option because the fewer the days, the more likelihood of achieving the desired goal.
What makes Kickstarter a particularly catchy platform is its functioning method. Kickstarter is based on the rule of all or nothing. If a project does not reach the pre-established goal, the funds do not get collected and the backers will not receive the product. In this manner both parties are protected, and the risks are minimized.
In this commercial chain, there are two different parties: the backers who pledge the money in order to allow the creation and the sale of the product, and the creator who is the person behind the specific product. The creator also decides the funding goal and the rewards that he/she will sell. The rewards are the representation of sharing a piece of a product with the backers. Similar to the arrangements of a website such as Amazon, the rewards are usually limited editions to entice buyers to acquire a product that they will only find on this platform for a short period of time. As all the websites that offer these opportunities, Kickstarter applies a fee: a 5% fee for the collected funds and approximately 3-5% for the fees to process the payment.
Francesco De Leo
Picture 1,2,3,4: Francesco De Leo
In the last few years we are seeing more and more beauty brands choosing models over 50 to represent their products; a trend that could not have existed a decade ago, when society was dominated by the desire of being young at all costs and twenty-something models were hired to sponsor anti-aging creams intended for older women.
Nowadays leafing through the pages of magazines, we can see women who are definitely more real, natural, reassuring and more representative of their age, confident in showing themselves with all their flaws.
The clearest example of this trend is symbolized by the business relationship between Italian actress Isabella Rossellini and Lancôme. Back in the 1980’s, Isabella was the highest-paid model in the world and the face of Lancôme’s advertisings for 14 years, until at 40 she was fired because considered too old to embody the women’s dream of youth. In 2016 the beauty brand announced it was hiring Isabella again, to the great astonishment of the media, taking up a more inclusive philosophy and making her its new global ambassador.
Just like Lancôme, L’Oréal has been a pioneer in proposing mature models in its campaigns (like Jane Fonda, Diane Keaton, Helen Mirren, Andie MacDowell, Julianne Moore and Ines de la Fressange). Some make up brands are also going in this direction, such as NARS with Charlotte Rampling and Tilda Swinton, MAC with Iris Apfel, Marc Jacobs Beauty with Jessica Lange, CoverGirl and Maye Musk. The list could go on.
Women know they will not be young forever and they just want to feel good in their skin rather than hiding themselves. Brands have captured this awareness and have translated it into a more realistic vision of older women. If we imagine that in the next two years women over 60 will represent the 15% of the global population, this new approach to aging is a very clever way for brands to sell their products.
Seeing the picture of a 60 year old woman in advertising campaigns is comforting also for younger girls, who can identify with a future version of themselves, and don’t think of aging as something scary and to fight. It seems like we are going through a process of acceptance that is very encouraging, making room for improving what a woman already has instead of erasing what she has gained through the experiences of a lifetime.
We are also witnessing a change of vocabulary when speaking of cosmetic labels. Sure enough, the words used to describe the effects of beauty products are fresh, positive, encouraging and less judgmental, negative and tough: now more and more creams and serums are plumping, bouncing, nourishing, brightening and glowing instead of anti–wrinkles and anti–imperfections.
All of this seems to whisper to women of all ages to embrace, accept and don’t fight who they are, living life in a more serene way.
by Anna D’Agostino
Cultural appropriation for design inspiration has always been a normal process in the Fashion industry but has recently become a hotly disputed practice that often backfires.
Times have changed and, for instance, Yves Saint Laurent’s peasant collections would now be criticized on social media for stealing from another culture.
The phenomenon of cultural appropriation is defined as a “sociological concept which views the adoption or use of elements of one culture by members of a different culture as a largely negative phenomenon.”
Despite the hype around the theme and all the complaints from people illegitimately “culturally robbed,” brands and Fashion designers still claim that being able to express themselves is more important than the consideration of the culture they are “stealing” from.
On the other hand, fashion acts as a vehicle of self-expression and fosters the exploration of creativity across industries, as the well-known designer Marc Jacobs said, “To me clothing is a form of self-expression; there are hints about who you are in what you wear” .
In a time when information is just a few clicks away, there is no longer any excuse not to fully understand the symbolic codes of the items that inspire fashion companies.
All the people working in the fashion system need to fully understand the real values and traditions behind the symbols that they are using in their collections; It is not enough to believe you are “honoring” another culture through your use of their symbolism and style.
No people have been exploited more extensively for inspiration than the Kenyan tribe of the Maasai. More than a thousand companies sell a wide range of products from clothes to cars that use the name Maasai or utilize cultural symbols of the tribe. No one ever thought of asking permission. Some brands have even asserted legal ownership over the Maasai name and symbols by registering them as a trademark.
Several brands and their designers have been overwhelmed by scandals regarding cultural appropriation in the design and concept of their items and fashion shows.
Marc Jacobs presented for his SS17 runway show a cyber goth-inspired look in which all the models wore candy-coloured dreadlocks that received thousands of bad reviews, especially on social media. The designer initially rejected all the critics and has now recently come around to admitting that the dreadlocks were nonsense and insensitive.
Another high-profile case regards the recent Dior campaign presented May 2018 featuring the Hollywood actress Jennifer Lawrence; The French fashion house was accused of cultural appropriation because the collection was entirely inspired by Mexican culture, in particular by escaramuza charra that is a typical Mexican sport that features a group of women on horseback, yet did not include any actual Mexicans.
One of the brands that has faced the most backlash and accusations of cultural appropriation is Victoria’s Secret, the well-known lingerie label, starting from 2010 until right up to the recent runway show.
People were offended multiple times over the years because of the indigenous-inspired looks worn by the models seemed to exploit and fetishize the culture.
More recently, luxury brands such as Gucci, Balenciaga, Dior and Versace were accused of presenting in their SS18 runway shows the hijab just as a pure fashion accessory rather than a real religious choice.
Due to the accelerated oscillation of fashion trends, production demands and the crucial role of brand loyalty, companies and designers are now under a growing social spotlight and for this reason they must be really careful about not confusing cultural inspiration with cultural appropriation.
By Miranda Bud
What do Picasso and the Minotaur have in common? At first glance you may say nothing, however the exhibition at the Palazzo Reale in Milan will show you otherwise. The exhibition aims to highlight the way in which Picasso was deeply inspired throughout his life by the stories of metamorphosis. The exhibition is a good way to experience art and brush up on some ancient mythology, and who doesn’t love nymphs and satyrs?
Many people may not know that Tequila, the famous spirit, is named after the place where it was originally produced. Tequila is a small “magical” Mexican village in the region of Jalisco where most of the producers have set up their own haciendas.
Brands offer tours inside their buildings so that visitors can get to know their story and to demonstrate how the spirit is produced. They offer a detailed explanation of how the tequila is made, and of course giving the opportunity to taste it as well. Customers have the chance to try the pure Tequila that is about 50% proof, which cannot be sold legally because it exceeds the 38/40-degree limit.
When you visit Tequila, don’t miss the chance to try another tasty drink that is not a Margherita. Its name is Cantarito, it is a made of tequila, orange juice, ruby grapefruit juice, squeezed lime juice, salt and pink grapefruit soda often served as a disposable take away container made of ceramic.
Would you like to have the experience of travelling through an amazing landscape of agave fields, or visiting a tequila distillery? Well, you can travel on board the Tequila Express. It’s a regional train service operating from Guadalajara to Tequila that began in 1997. It gets its name from the tequila tasting during the journey, and Mariachis (Mexican traditional musicians) show up on board to play their music allowing travellers to be immersed in the Mexican culture.
Tequila did not start out as a luxury drink. The spirit comes from a plant called blue agave (the same plant that gives us another spirit called Mezcal). Basically, producers take the “Piña”, that is the body of the plant, and burn it.
It was first discovered by the Spanish conquistadores, who used it as a replacement to drink since they ran out of brandy. That’s why they successfully tried to get a new spirit from the agave plant. So, we should thank them for this precious gift they kindly provided us.
Among the best tequila brands, we have Don Julio and Josè Cuervo, that was the first one to receive the license to produce Tequila in 1795. They collaborate frequently with local Mexican artists to produce particular and extravagant labels and packaging. This particular collaboration makes their products rare and particularly suitable for collections.
Tequila is now turning into a luxury drink. LVMH, famous world leader in high quality products, has added a a tequila brand to its collection. It is called Volcan de mi tierra, and It is produced in the Tequila area in Jalisco. They use two different kind of blue agave and it is burnt into a stone oven.
So, what are you waiting for? If you want to have an amazing experience, surrounded and enchanted by beautiful blue flowers, while tasting one of the most paradisiacal drinks ever. Tequila is the perfect place for you.
Gstaad is one of the most exclusive winter destinations, and its reputation as an luxurious playground for the jet-set is global. No place melds ski and luxury like whimsical Gstaad, its effortless elegance can be both modern and traditional.
In Gstaad everything rhymes with luxury, even the basic shops seem to display luxurious objects. The Swiss destination is belovedby many VIPs, from Valentino Garavani to Brigitte Bardot…and although the marvelous slopes, the dog sledding on Glacier 3000, the ice rink, the polo club and so on… winter sports do not seem to be the favorite pastime.
Having just returned from the whimsical winter wonderland here’s my top ten places to enjoy in Gstaad
Without a doubt the Golden Pass Railway is the chicer way to travel to Gstaad. This posh train will lull you to sleep into its opulent carriages known for their glass panoramic windows.
2.THE PALACE HOTEL
This hotel encompasses all of Alpine elegance and its discreet luxury… From your room you can enjoy the enchanting beauty of the Swiss Alps
What about a delicious truffles champagne cheese fondue or typically Swiss raclette?
For the finest melted cheese and the gooiest fondue, nobody beats La Fromagerie.
Known as “a place where the world dines.” It is a meeting place for bon vivantsfrom all over the world. Its signature dish is “penne alla vodka”.
The Eagle is a private members’ restaurant located in a chalet on the top of a private mountain served by a private ski lift. If you dream to be a part of the Eagle be prepared for a three-year wait and a £25,000 membership card. After being invited on the three year waiting list, potential members are subjected to a severe vetting procedure at the hands of the discriminating committee.
The allure of this chalet is created by its cozy and inviting atmosphere, and by its delicious culinary delights.
Huskies and Greenland dogs love to pull their sleighs across the glistering snow, and you will be carried into a charmed and picturesque village, feeling slightly separate from the real world.
8.SPA AT THE ALPINA
After a skiing session on the slopes give yourself the gift of a sweet and pure moment of well-being and relaxation.
The glamour hotspot this season is Bouquet, the downtempo cocktail lounge that combines a classy and luxurious atmosphere with a rock’n’roll vibe. As you step into this club you actually make a head first diveinto a dark and decadent world, with florals and sumptuous fabrics, kilim-covered sofas and velvet banquette seating.
The fabulous nightclub of the Gstaad Palace was opened in 1971. With its dancefloor floating above a swimming pool and its unparalleled design, it stands as one of the oldest clubs on the international night scene, respected for and by its jet-set clientele from all around the world.
By Alessandro Zani
In the last few years, luxury hotellerie has upped its game. The hotels started to study client data in order to personalize the experiences they provide in the best possible way. Today clients are looking for exclusive experiences, something that will endure in their hearts over time. Hotels have adapted to this way of thinking and developed new strategies to succeed. Let’s analyse five examples of this experiences.
1. Crystal Air Cruise
This company provides its clients with a highly specialized tour around the world in a Boing 777. The interior of this aircraft has been completely modified in order to offer the most intense luxury experience possible. The inside the plane has been transformed into a roomy lounge where the clients can have a drink and talk with each other. The lounge also hosts dining tables and Michelin-star meals are prepared by a chef who’s always present on the plane. The 88 seats in the passenger compartment can turn into beds and are equipped with a 24-inch screen each. Beside that, clients can take advantage of a butler service. The tour is available for a cost of $159.000 per person.
2. Belmond: Venice Simplon-Orient-Express
The Belmond hotels chain offers a tour on the famous Venice Simplon-Orient-Express for an unforgettable trip from London to Venice or from London/Venice to Paris. The train, dating from the 1920s, has been restored in order to offer the best luxury experience. Clients can enjoy meals prepared by the chef Christiaan Bodiguel and his team. What’s impressive is that the ingredients of the meals are directly loaded on the train during the trip, in order to be always fresh.
3. The Ritz Carlton Rancho Mirage, Palm Springs
The Ritz-Carlton Hotel In Palm Springs can offer an incredible range of experiences to its clients. For ‘’only’’ $40,000, the guests can drive around in a Bentley, sleep for two nights in a 1700 square-foot suite and have a tour in the desert where they can dine under the stars. This package also includes a dinner at The Edge Steakhouse, a Spa treatment, a private butler and a tour with a Jeep.
4. L’Apogee Courchevel, Courchevel, France
If you are looking for an amazing ski experience, this hotel has been built just for you. Positioned in the Trois Vallées, it is one of the most innovative facilities in the area. For $2000 per day, clients can take private ski lessons with the Olympic champion Florence Masnada. After training, the clients can also benefit from relaxation exercises and have a drink together after the ski session in the chalet. Ah, and of course sleep in the hotel’s suite.
4. Laucala Island Resort, Fiji
Are you ready for a complete, massive experience in Fiji? Well, in the Laucala Island Resort you can actually drive a submarine! It reaches a depth of 18 metres where you can admire the beautiful sea life and corals of the Fiji. For a cost of $2000 guests can drive the submarine for 30 minutes. Moreover, they can enjoy the stunning resort of this private island, surrounded by tropical rain forests, volcanic mountains and paradisiac beaches. For the most demanding a golf course is available, and also a spa and luxurious restaurants.
By Andrea Vittorio Castelli
Like clothes, the soundtrack that accompanies a fashion show plays a crucial role in the entertainment economy, highlighting the key concepts that inspire the collection and literally dictating the rhythm, both of execution and fruition.
Originally the music chosen for fashion shows was purely for rhythm, in order to set the pace for the models. Nowadays the choice of music has evolved. It is far more stylistic, chosen to give atmosphere to a fashion show as opposed to simply set the walking speed down the stage. Music today is used to transmit the mood, pure feelings which give emotional strength to the entire work.
Looking at comparisons between several fashion shows, it is clear that each designer develops a signature over time with the music, using it to reinforce their brand identity. Designers have their preferences, they have their own taste and they react to music in the same way they design a collection. Models don’t usually walk to the beat of the music anyway and it’s more about creating a certain mood: for women’s shows, it’s more lyrical while men’s shows call for more of a rock beat.
The music elements in a fashion show can make or break the event. The style of music chosen can help to accent the designer’s collection and set the mood for the entire evening. Music really changes the experience of the show, involving the audience. For example, If the clothing is more military and dark colours perhaps a harder more rock style music would be suitable. Understanding the taste of the stylist and the identity of the brand is crucial. What they want to communicate to the audience and to the customers according to the strategy market of their season collection is the final goal.
Ladies and Gentleman, here are three music moments that have highlighted at best the creative espirit of the collections
- Marcelo Burlon (Fall/Winter 2018/2019)
Marcelo Burlon is not just a stylist, he is also a dj. The designer of clothing and sound coexist in the same person. The eclectic Marcelo Burlon has chosen his own sound of music in his shows. In this collection we see bad boys dressed in streetwear, and the music reflects the fashion style: it’s the soundtrack of the most famous artists that you find in the best clubs in the metropolis.
- Moschino (Fall/Winter 2018/2019)
The theme of the show was “Transgression,” developed through catsuits and bodysuits. On patches fixed and in some hidden points we can read words like “fetish,” “pleasure” and “pain.” In keeping with the mood, in our ears we hear the obsessive, harsh and aggressive sound of the German producer Erik Wiegand, aka Errorsmith.
3. Louis Vuitton (Fall/Winter 2018/2019)
Beautiful music with stunning icons ( 8:34 Naomi Campbell & 8:48 Kate Moss).
The music choice of the French fashion brand is not by chance. They chose a very classic discodance track but in a modern update, reinterpreted in key Dub by a remix released in 2011. The song seems to reflect the collection, classic and modern at the same time.
For the past 5,000 years, two trends strongly related to emotional feelings have survived and developed during human evolution. Art is the first one, the human creation that arouses emotions through the sense of sight. Wine is the second one, which plays in much the same way on the sense of taste. Both are able to release different feelings in the human body, depending on the kind of art or the wine taste.
Due to this ability, artists or oenologists are able to fill canvas or bottle with complexity, freshness, memories, thoughts, energy, harmony, colours, uniqueness or elegance, all elements that can capture the senses of users during their experience. Different cultural backgrounds and previous experience lead to different art and wine interpretations that changes from user to user. Art and wine can be seen as emotional journeys that are provided by artists and oenologists. So in my opinion, wine categories can be linked to artistic currents through emotions or ideas that arise from both.
I found an ideological and emotional connection between Lambrusco and Pop Art, two currents ready to blow up in a of fresh, youthful and playful atmosphere. These kind of Bottles and Art become global due to the industrialization of the production processes. This is confirmed by Roy Lichtenstein himself when he said “Everybody has called Pop Art ‘American’ painting, but it’s actually industrial painting.” and by 60 million liters of Lambrusco produced in 2017 as reported by the Emilia tourism web site.
In my opinion, there is a match between the complexity of a Barolo wine tasting or a Pablo Picasso exhibition. The heavy structure underpinning the two “products” could be comparable in different ways. Barolo has a strong complexity and identity, and it is characterized by flavours that came out sip after sip. The complexity in this kind of wine is harmonious, something impossible to define through a single sip. In the same way as Barolo, Picasso’s paintings have to be observed carefully and several times in order to find the harmony that is present in his complex artworks.
Freshness is another characteristic that art and wine have in common. The freshness evoked by a white wine like a Vermentino can be compared to the fresh and breezy feelings coming from an en plein air Monet painting. Smelling a glass of Vermentino or looking at “Femme à l’ombrelle tournée vers la gauche” reminds us of the sensation of fresh air that is breathed in a countryside breezy spring morning.
The golden sparkles and uniqueness of a Metodo Classico is comparable to Klimt’s “Portrait of Adele Bloch-Bauer.” In fact, the feeling of bubbles popping up in the mouth is very similar to the sensation created by the golden flow wrapping around Klimt’s lady in the portrait. In this case, artwork and wine are strongly linked to a luxurious and sparkling emotion.
I would like to invite you to jump into an amazing experience that will allow you to match your emotions with art and wine according to your feelings. Eternal beautiful art and wine, together, created a never ending bond that won’t disappear.
Federico Dallari Bondanini
By Laura Dolfi
Remember the 2011 hit song “Who Runs the World”? It has now been 8 years since its release and, much to my disappointment (and Beyoncé’s), women still don’t run the world. Or at least statistically speaking, they don’t. Continue reading “Fashion is a (wo)Man’s World”
Being online is undoubtedly an urgent need for luxury brands. In fact according to a study by McKinsey, online luxury sales will triple by 2025 and Millennials are ready to pay more for personalized luxury items and services.
Despite this, often when we speak about luxury shopping online, someone is always turning up their nose. That’s because it’s very hard to bring that luxury brick-and-mortar experience online. Just think about those fabulous flagship stores with sophisticated shop assistants suggesting how to match clothes and encourage you to try out products before making the final decision.
Well, websites can’t offer you comfortable armchairs, a sparkling bottle of champagne or fascinating scents.
But, I don’t think about this luxury shopping experience as something to be replaced by the internet, but like something to improve through technology. Luxury brands can close experience gap online through another different kind of exclusive and unique experience.
So, here are 3 incredible websites that use technology to offer an improved luxury experience:
“From the first Lake Como store to an international online fashion destination.”
Tessabit is an Italian multi brand store chain and its website was born in 2009. Its e-shop hosts super luxury brands like Balmain, Balenciaga, and Saint Laurent, and offers expansive and exclusive customer services that really personalize your online experience.
For starters, there is a personal stylist who helps you style the perfect outfit for any occasion. “Try your wishlist” is very useful for anyone who is still not sure about his choice or is still far from this online world. With “click and collect” service you can choose to send your product to one of their boutiques and pick it up there. And finally “tailoring” for your products purchased online.
This is a well-known Made in Italy shoe brand, founded by Enio Silla in 1994. This monobrand online shop offers you the opportunity to personalize your pair of shoes by adding your initials or crystals. Or you can have a personal shopper helping you during your shopping. And lastly, it offers a personalized tailoring service: to tighten or enlarge the boot legs, or extend or add some holes on the ankle straps.
This is a fashion magazine and luxury accessories e-commerce website. It was founded by two former editors of a top fashion publication, Kate Davidson and Stefania Allen. Here you can shop the top edit of today’s hottest accessories, but that’s not all. Editorialist excels in customer service, offering a luxury concierge, same-day delivery, and personal styling services.
Shopping online doesn’t mean just “click, collect and buy.” Especially in luxury, it’s all about the experience and consumers want to be unique. Offline ain’t the only way.
by Alessandra Coppi
Art has a very fundamental role in today’s luxury market. In the survey “Art Market 2018”, we can see that sales at public auction of fine and decorative art and antiques reached $28.5 billion in 2017, up 27% year-on-year. The US and China dominated auction sales with a combined 68% share (respectively 35% and 33%).
But artists themselves do not always appreciate selling their works to private collectors. Some artists think that art should be free and not privately owned, since it has a moral goal. A clear example of this attitude is the British graffiti artist Banksy.
Last November, MUDEC inaugurated the exhibition “A Visual Protest. The Art of Banksy” curated by Gianni Mercurio and showcasing about 80 works including paintings, sculptures and prints of the artist.
This graffiti artist has always been against the privatization of art and in general as artist Shepard Fairey explained, “His works are full of metaphors that transcend language barriers. The images are entertaining and witty, and yet so simple and accessible: even six-year old children who have no concept of cultural conflict, have no problem seeing that there is something not quite right when they see the Mona Lisa with a rocket launcher.”
But let’s focus now on the idea of the commoditization of art.
On October 5 2018, Sotheby’s auctioned one of his paintings for 1.4 million dollars.The painting was a copy of the famous image of a girl releasing a heart balloon. However, after the sale, the painting self-destructed. After this episode, Banksy posted a video where he installed a shredder in the frame of the painting “in case it was ever put on auction.” Then he quoted Pablo Picasso: “The urge to destroy is also a creative urge.”
This was a clear demonstration of Banksy’s way of considering art, but also a way to go against the system of auctions.
However, this actually wasn’t Banksy’s first attempt to criticize the selling system. In 2007 Banksy created a work titled “I Can’t Believe You Morons Actually Buy This Shit” where he shows a clear opposition against the luxury art market.
Another artist that has always been against the commoditization of art was Pietro Manzoni.
Each tin of his “Artist’s Shit, contents, 30 GR net, freshly preserved, produced and tinned in May 1961” was originally evaluated according to its equivalent weight in gold – $37 each in 1961 – with the price fluctuating according to the market.
Manzoni’s simple, abject art more or less coincided with his country’s post-war boom, which saw great economic growth and a steep rise in consumer spending, also in the art sector.
As graffiti artist Keith Haring said: “The public needs art — and it is the responsibility of a ‘self-proclaimed artist’ to realize that the public needs art, and not to make bourgeois art for a few and ignore the masses.” So has Bansky made a right choice of destroyng his work? As he says “The art world is the biggest joke going. It’s a rest home for the overprivileged, the pretentious, and the weak. And modern art is a disgrace – never have so many people used so much stuff and taken so long to say so little”.
Since China began its Open Policy in 1978,it has only been a few decades since luxury brands entered into the Chinese market. Compared to Europe and the US, China is still a very young and energetic market. It has its own luxury heritage but it’s completely different from the modern luxury market. Because of that, the Chinese new generation accepts the foreign culture with a very open approach. Foreign luxury brands are studying ways to conquer more and more members of this new generation.
As one of the potential target customers of current marketing, I got curious: “What about our elders, the young people of the past who lived before the Open Policy. How do they express their views of fashion?”
“I believe the best fashion show is on the street, it always has been and it always will be.”Bill Cunnigham.
I found a photographer named Roy Zhang on Instagram (@ Royonthestreet). In his work, I found some “past young people” who live in Shanghai, making them the first to come into contact with foreign cultures.
I am pleased to find that they are still at the forefront of fashion. . . take a look!
When I see her, oh my god! She has all the most trendy outfits, sneakers, short pants, sport coat, and a pair of sunglasses with a very strong structure. The best of all is her attitude. Compare her to Hadid’s similar outfit: I give my vote to this Balenciga grandma.
Her shirt and foulard lead me to Pucci immediately. Silk, colourful prints, flowers, leaves. But beyond all these colours and prints are the face, eyes, and that light scent of this elegant lady.
Skirts with colourful fantasy printing. Black lace-ups with purple socks. White canvas handbag. Beige hat. So feminine, so delicate.
I guess he is over 75. Navy sporty jacket, fantasy shirt, hat with serpent texture, burgundy handbag,a very oriental fan and all those golden rings. This man’s fashion philosophy : never miss a detail.
In one photo is wearing grass green, in another marine blue, but I see the same calm, same energy. He is getting older and older, but I didn’t see anything about age in his eyes.
Light blue aged jacket, white shirt, and a half-cut navy sweater. That sweater is so creative! In this picture, these three colours created a very beautiful contrast with geometric lines. It just a wow!
Today, since every brand uses different strategies to expand their markets all over the world in a globalization and explosion of information, people are starting to wear same thing. Because of that, i would say that fashion is losing its soul-identity and creativity.
Art is inspired by life.It is culture that differenciate us, not just wearing different brands. So you should express fashion in your own way.
You see, the best fashion show is on the street, it always has been and it always will be.
Nowadays we are all surrounded by a lot of very good restaurants and sometimes it can be difficult to choose which we want to try. So… “How to make them different?”.
A new trend, especially popular with Millennials, is going to a restaurant also because it looks great on Instagram. People are crazy about posting their lives, and food is one of the most-photographed things. So restaurateurs try to impress their customers by focusing on the presentation of the dishes, the furnishing of the location, and by proposing extravagant alternatives.
In this article, I want to show you 3 examples of restaurants that had the unusual idea to combine sightseeing with fine dining. Continue reading “Newest fine dining experiences: itinerant restaurants”
Let’s start with a simple question: why are luxury brands able to make people pay a premium price? The answer is heritage. Customers are willing to pay thousands of euros to buy simple items because they can identify themselves with some specific values that characterize respectively each brand. Furthermore, this is the perfect way for them to define how they want to look in front of the society’s eyes too. Continue reading “Case Study: How Bulgari got its brand extension right”
Nowadays we can not imagine our lives without travelling. We travel for business reasons, for vacations, or even simply to get away for a weekend to have dinner in a different city. And of course, we always need a place to sleep. We have so many options to choose from for where to stay and where to have our experience. But 10 years ago could you imagine that you could have chosen and paid for a hotel with a simple click without even leaving your home?
Every day, technologies are moving us towards the future in each sector of our lives. The hotel business is no different. So, let’s take a look at what awaits us in the near future.
Robots as butlers
Based on research conducted by the Institute of Global Future, in the near future we will have robots as personal assistants in the hotel. You can program these robots via the Internet before your arrival to your destination. The client will be able to provide them with the preferred language of communication, as well as the necessary information that will ensure a comfortable stay of the guest in the hotel. These robots will be able to do almost everything: offer guests delicious food, clean a room, offer various entertainments, have a talk, give advice, and even, teach something.
You will not have to worry anymore if you forgot something at home. 3D printers will be available in every room of the hotel as an additional service for the guest and it will be possible to print household items, clothes and even computer or phone details in real time. All items will be available online and can be ready for you during several minutes
Good news : in the near future we will not have bad dreams anymore! It is expected that the development of technology will allow us to “order” certain dreams in order to sleep well and feel comfortable.
Longevity Spa program
New Spa salons will be based on DNA analysis and will be able to extend our life. Guests will be provided with individual preventive procedures and programs that can understand the risks of developing various diseases, and choose the necessary procedures in order to improve the client’s health. Treatments will be created on the basis of medical genetics, drugs that help improve brain function and procedures to prevent diseases. Of course, the usual massage and mud baths will not go anywhere.
The hotel will no longer be just “eco-friendly”, but rather will completely switch to the use of “clean” energy, such as solar and geothermal. The use of non-toxic products and mechanisms with zero carbon dioxide emissions will not be an advantage, but mandatory conditions of the hotelier industry.
Thanks to the new technologies, there are millions of different scenarios – for example, guests will be able to visit China or Australia without leaving the hotel. Guests will no longer be tied directly to the hotel and excursions that they need to program in advance. Hotels will be able at any time provide their clients with the opportunity to visit the most unusual places of the world. In addition, in the nearest future, clients will be able to visit any soccer game or concert without leaving the hotel room
Well, I am excited about my future travelling experience. And what about you?
Who made my clothes? And how are they disposed of? These are questions we’re hearing more and more often as we talk about how fashion harms the environment. Hence, what can we do to stop it from getting worse?
The fashion industry is the second largest polluter in the world, after oil. It’s because retailers restock collections every 4-6 weeks, enticing us to buy more and think less, leaving a huge amount of unwanted clothing to get rid of at landfill sites. Since the 20th century, apparel has progressively been seen as disposable, and it has become extremely globalised, with garments and accessories designed in one country, manufactured in another and sold worldwide. Hence, globalization makes fashion cheaper and more disposable.
Regrettably, we all know that disposable fashion is damaging the environment: 100 billion items of clothing are being produced every year and 50 per cent of fast fashion is disposed of within a year. In addition, we consume about 80 billion new pieces of clothing annually – 400% more than we were consuming just two decades ago.
Fast fashion is a term used by fashion retailers to describe it as an industry that focuses on speed and low-cost prices in order to deliver familiar new collections inspired by recent runway looks and new style trends seen on celebrities. However, fast fashion especially awful for the environment. At the same time, luxury brands are destroying millions of dollars’ worth of apparel and perfume in order to prevent them being discounted on the secondary market which lowers their allure. Moreover, big fashion production houses that manufacture clothes for mass consumption don’t just damage the environment but also choose quantity over quality for gains.
Of course, things are developing as the fashion industry becomes aware of its impact on our Earth. For example, many fashion brands and fashion groups have recently released their strategies for the future such as LVMH, Kering, Zara and H&M that contains a significant contribution in creating a more sustainable world and cooperating for the good of employees, suppliers and shoppers.
Rent, Repair, Reuse, Repeat
Clothing rental could be the key to a sustainable fashion. A lifetime of fashion product is being extended as pre-owned, repaired and rental business models like Rent the Runway begin to grow. Consumers are shifting away from traditional ownership to most up to date ways in which to approach product. This shift to modern ownership models is driven by enlarging shopper desire and wish for diversity, accessibility and sustainability. Nowadays, young people lust for freshness and innovation, hence, they are more interested in sustainable apparel than older consumers. Rental, reuse and resale models expand the product lifecycle and duration of use as long as offering the freshness shopper desire.
Without a doubt, Stella McCartney is the founder of the sustainable luxury movement. The vegetarian-friendly designer stated that “each decision we make is a symbol of our commitment to defining what the future of fashion looks like. From never using leather or fur and pioneering new alternative materials to utilising cutting edge technologies, pushing towards circularity”. Other luxury players such as Richemont group have acquired rental businesses in order to seize power of how their products and brands are marketed on the secondary market.
Express is betting on the resale or rental market, launching “Express Style Trial,” which permits shoppers to rent up to three items at any moment for a monthly fee.
Eventually, Rental shopping could keep you on top of trends, as well as helping the environment and saving the planet in the process. Is rental fashion the future?
- Vogue, photographed by Tim Walker. viewed February 7th 2019,.
- China landfill with clothes. Migrant Workers Children Spend Childhood Scavenging Landfill, viewed February 7th 2019,.
- A Stella McCartney campaign shot in a Scottish landfill site to raise awareness of waste and over-consumption. Photograph: Harley Weir and Urs Fischer for Stella McCartney, viewed February 7th 2019,.
When Chanel speaks, the world listens.
And when Chanel bets, everyone follows the same direction.
Innovation and experimentation have always been driving forces throughout the brand’s history, seeking to reinvent and change continually, trying not to follow, but anticipating trends. To wrap up 2018 as a sector leader, on December 7th the French brand became the first one in luxury to go green on beauty, by becoming the biggesst investor in Sulapac Ltd. This Finnish startup was founded by two biochemists, Suvi Haimi and Laura Kyllönen, in 2016, focusing the business on biodegradable packaging as an alternative to plastic.
This is not the only recent green move for the French brand. On November 4th it announced that its fashion lines will not use exotic leather such as crocodile, lizard, snake and parsnip in the future.
The sustainable materials used by Sulapac are microplastic-free and certificatedby FSC (Forest Stewardship Council), which recognizes products that come from forests with an environmentally responsible ma-aged supply chain.
The new frontier for sustainable packaging, before attracting Chanel’s attention, won several awards including the Green Alley Award and the EU’s Horizon 2020 subsidy for SMEs.
Today the idea of luxury is slightly changing, and customers demand not only exclusivity and tailor-made products, but ask for something more in exchange for their brand loyalty. Environmental sustainability is a topic that is becoming more and more important for consumers that now expect responsible corporate sustainability from luxury brands.
Rethinking eco-sustainable packaging in beauty makes Chanel stand out from the crowd and gives power to their long-term approach, as the company itself explains in its Report to Society: “Luxury is seen as a privilege for few, but it creates desire and beauty for many. Because of this, we believe that, as a luxury brand, the way we operate can and should represent the best in society. We are convinced that only an exemplary luxury brand that contributes in an exemplary way to a better world will remain desirable and relevant for all tomorrow”. Through this we can easily understand that Chanel’s long term strategy is made of several milestones. Using sustainable packaging, the goal is to diversify in a sector in which plastic is one of the main materials used. At the same time, the brand wants to communicate their core strategy, focused on excellence through environmental aspects, quality raw materials and positive social impact.
Even if the deal’s price was not disclosed, the financial transaction certainly less than one million euro — which is the total amount that Sulapac raised among their 7 investors. Considering that Chanel’s sales from Fashion, Fragrances & Beauty, and Watches & Fine jewelry amount to $9.6 billion, the sum invested in the Finnish company clearly gives them enormous advantages compared to the size of the deal. In fact, the brand awareness and reputation gained from this eco-sustainable move will enable it to increase the “exclusivity aura” that surrounds Chanel.
Now the questions are: how much time will Chanel need to put the sustainable packaging on the market? And how will the startup cope with sheer volume of the products that Chanel requires for its beauty production?
Will Chanel create his own sustainable packaging firm in the end?
Posted and written by Martina Tarantini