The future of luxury brands: personal platforms and social media.

Do you know what the forced compliance theory is? It describes the unpleasant feeling that results from believing two contrary ideas at the same time, concentrating on the tendency that a person is induced to do something that might be contrary to his or her opinion in order to avoid dissonance.

Not so easy to understand, right? Actually this paradigm is widely used in marketing by inducing consumers to do something for a brand, an action expected to enhance and to amplify their attitudes towards the brand itself.

An important indicator comes from the social media world.

facebook-1602262_960_720

Few days ago, Snapchat debuted on the stock exchange for a value of 25 billion dollars reconfirming the enormous power this platform has; it is by far the best place to reach the generation Z which is very fragmented and has a huge media consumption.

But how to engage them? Lets analyze this phenomena together.

Burberry planned everyhing in advance.

Art of the Trench, Burberry’s first social network step, was released in October 2009: it main goal was to stimulate the consumers by interacting with the brand itself, focusing on the ability to create content and to bulk a sense of belonging and affinity: anybody had the possibility to became a brand ambassador, posting pictures of themselves wearing Burberry’s clothes.

art-of-the-trench

The brand went forward, leveraging on continuous challanges of innovation, reinventing new customer values, and getting tuned with 21st century technologies.

It was 2010 when Christopher Bailey (chief executive and creative officer of Burberry, ndr) launched the project Burberry Acoustic: consumers could register on live.burberry.com and watch session of performances by new and emerging British bands wearing Burberry garments mixed in with their own clothes.

But all that glitters is not gold. A brand image can be ruined by a poor management of the site in any moment through:

  • Absence of a real daily interaction between the brand and its followers;
  • Lack of a deep and meaningful brand experience by seeing photos of others in the same outfits;
  • Not keeping social networks fresh and relevant.

This push towards social media marketing stands to be a positive one only if it is strictly connected in a customer-focused brand strategy.

Burberry also went beyond live streaming: during the SS 2016 fashion show, with a “public” of 100 million accounts, it shared pictures of the entire collection on Snapchat before its debut on the runway.

Senza titolo.png

How to take advantages of this super active audience? The brand offered a made-to-order catwalk service, selling runway pieces collection online immediately after the show ended: remeber that the final and ultimate goal is to bring the customers closer to the brand.

The last in.

Few days before the Paris Fashion Week 2017 Céline joined Instagram for the first time, reaching more than 50,000 followers after only one day. The French maison was the only one among all the other luxury brands that had snubbed the power of social media: it was not present  on Twitter and Facebook, something pretty strange for a luxury fashion brand nowadays.

Schermata 2017-03-05 alle 14.58.02.png

The capacity to keep these spaces active is fundamental to defining the macro-strategies used (such as coherence, interaction with the public, a dinamic scenary, etc).

The brand is seen as myth, as a lifestyle. It is strongly related with its heritage, proposed and celebrated through evoking a precise way of living.

The new CEO Séverine Merle has brought a more fresh approach to the brand, planning also to open an e-commerce website and test the results of the sales online within the end of the year.

Using the influencers to capitalize more.

An amazing idea came from the minds of Dolce&Gabbana: during their SS 2017 presentation, they manage to make the catwalk alive with diversity, sizes, shapes, ages, races.

Now the audience and the final customers are changed, and also the luxury world must adjust itself.

dolce_gabbana_cameron_dallas_9914_1900x1307

A significant number of people appearently unknown, famous on social media, children-of, influencers or bloggers: they weren’t professionals, but the presentation was still unique.

The Tommy x tommy-tmygrl-iphone-1200x1170Gigi collection
made by Tommy Hilfiger in collaboration with the super model Gigi Hadid used Facebook’s first conversational shoppable experience.

It is an artificial intelligence that answers questions about the collection on Facebook Messenger, adds items to the user’s cart, and sends them to tommy.com to complete the purchase. The tool aim is the one of copying some of the features on China’s massively popular and sales app, WeChat.

Of course these partnerships can achieve engagement, but the actual conversion rate to sales is not garanted: only about 1,5% of online sales in 2016 can be attributed to social media, even if 75% of customers discover products there. Brands therefore consider Facebook, Instagram and Snapchat as media and advertising tools, with the hope that they will be also turned into e-commerce platforms.

The fashion, luxury and haute couture sectors are characterized by a strong and intensive presence on the social media. We can define this sociability form as a vertical one, represented by high respondance taxes of users who express in an emotional way the attachment to a brand, without creating a real flow of conversation between each other or the brand.

Even if they’re not buying, your customers want to talk to you and about you.

Burberry films its S/S 2014 show using the iPhone 5S

Anna Bizzozero

References:

BoF

Pambianco

Digital PR

Digiday Publishing Awards Europe

Collection Trends

Burberry

Céline

Dolce & Gabbana

Advertisements

The anti-social show

In the digital era the fashion industry is shaping around new forms of mass communication and this is leading both to a new revival of the image culture and a redefinition of times and ways of communication.

Every fashion show is immediately posted on social networks by guests or directly by brands themselves. In fact many brands, through Snapchat, Instagram or Facebook Live, can broadcast live everything happening in their shows, even the behind the scenes.

But there is someone who doesn’t agree with this trend. He is Massimo Giorgetti, creative director of MSGM.

During the last Milan Fashion Week he left a black cardboard with a request for his guests:

Put back your phone and enjoy the show. 

His aim is to not spread the images of the new collection until they will be available on shop.

cartoncino_invito

The motivation behind this strong gesture is the belief that all the images posted create confusion in the mind of customers.

“No prejudice regard socials. Consumers are now disoriented and with this initiative we would like him to discover the collection when it’s time to buy it in the store”. These the words of  the italian creative director.

The show has registered one of the lowest engagement rate of the MFW, with a total amount of 3.800 interaction.

Giorgetti has been smart and brave to challenge a developing system, in which people are searching for fashion shows’ products immediately after it, making costumers discovering his product directly in the stores, as in the past.

And you, what do you think about it? Right or risky choice?

 

 

 

Sources:

http://www.vogue.it/news/notizie-del-giorno/2016/03/01/msgm-vieta-instagram-massimo-giorgetti/

http://www.elle.it/Magazine/sfilate-senza-social-massimo-giorgetti

What happen before a fashion show?

There is something that I feel to say about the fashion week: if you are invited at a show, please go in advance. It is like attending the red carpet before the Oscar Cerimony.

A few minutes before the beginning of the show, after a huge collection of pictures, the guests finally go in. And who is not invited, go home.

mood fausto blog

Here they start to snapchatting every single fly around.

Now you think that guests can not wait to see what the creative director decided to propose for the new season, but is not always like this.

What happened at the Fausto Puglisi show, was that a certain point, when everyone was at it’s own seat (except for Suzy Menkes and Anna Dello Russo) someone crashed in.

Guess who? Amanda Lepore.

What happened is priceless. Everyone left the seats (in a speed of light) that after one hour outside everyone was dreaming, especially women.  After ten seconds, the semi-naked diva was surrounded  by a thousand of people and photographers.

When everyone was back at its seat, Belen arrived, but I need to admit that the interest was not even  comparable to the Lepore achieved success.

Now, it’s Fausto Puglisi time! Bianca Balti opened the show, as often happened for Dolce&Gabbana runway. Madonna’s voice opened the show, tribute to her last album where during the tour she wore a cape designed by Puglisi.

The fall/winter collection was a mix between sporty and cowboy trends. He reinterpreted the Varsity jacket, that matched with beanie hats. Even if sporty is a trend that does not belong to F.P., he was able to transform it into his signature. Clear proof of his awesome skills.

“Puglisi will never be a minimalist, and thank goodness.” Nicole Phelps, Style.com

fp fall winter

Asians like Salvatore Ferragamo

February 28th, 4pm.

The Italian brand Salvatore Ferragamo showed its FW 16-17  woman collection in Piazza Affari 6, Milan.

Guests from every area of the world were sitted at the catwalk, raring to be engaged in the Ferragamo’s worldimage1

Besides the sophisticated and luxurious collection inspired by the unconditioned geometry, what I want to focus on is the overview on economic results of the florentine company during the last years. Salvatore Ferragamo strong of its enviable heritage and long history has been able to communicate throughout the style its Italian roots which are now, as in the past, strongly appreciate abroad.

The Asian continent is one of the most important market for the company, it worths 1/3 of the whole profits. The key market in that area, which has been entered in the ’70, is the Japan where Salvatore Ferragamo has more than 60 shops.

On the other hand a market which is not performing well for Salvatore Ferragamo such as for the majority of the Luxury brands is the Russian one. This is every day on the front page and is impacting one of the stronger consumers and heavy spenders which are the Russian and this is of course affecting Europe as well.

The CEO of the company Michele Norsa, despite the hard situation in Russia, is confident about the presence of the brand in the Asian market where the it is distributed throughout 130 shops in spite of the “crisis” that the China has experienced in terms of general growth.image1

An additional exploitable opportunity which refers to Asia concerns the tourism flow that is growing day by day. More and more cities in Asia are reducing restrictions of getting visa, so an increasing number of people from the Asian continent will have the chance to travel out of the country. 130 million of chinese plan to travel abroad so the opportunity that has to be catched can be very profitable for those companies that want to develop and monitor this quite new trend in order to meet a new target.

According with the Salvatore Ferragamo CEO and with Credit Suisse there is enough room to better the profitability of the brand during the current year in Italy, where profits are growing double digit, and of course in Asia.

Bianca Balti back on top

A beautiful angelic face, an intense gaze, big blue eyes, full and luscious lips; these are the distinctive lines of Bianca Balti one of the most renowned Italian super model.
Strong and Soft at the same time, after almost a year and two babies she is back on the catwalks, and what a unique occasion to start again, than the last Milan Fashion Week where she rocked opening Fausto Puglisi Fall/Winter 2016/17 RTW fashion show, that held at Palazzo del Senato, Via del Senato, 10 Milan. 12800281_968489303186235_8725398219371641180_n

I had an unforgettable chance to live this experience and meet her just long enough to hoping to adopt her enviable qualities with a quick spritz. At least that’s how I felt after having meet her and having took a selfie with Bianca Balti, the 32-year-old Italian model who started the carrier with Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce at 20 years old. Whether posting a makeup-free selfie on Instagram or walking the runway in Milan, Balti exudes confidence, beauty, and a carefree attitude that’s contagious.

With her simple and sunny personality she embodies the most modern side of fashion and her constant and dedicated use of social media such as Instagram, Facebook and the last trend Snapchat, make her the icon for this Fashion Week.

For her comeback on the runway  she was sparkling and dazzling from the top to the bottom; she opened the fashion show wearing a very sensual colorblock mini-dress with a deep neckline that appeared under a maxi bomber while her second look was a short printed dress matched with a fur and a wool hat.

It looks like her carrier came full circle: she started modelling for Dolce & Gabbana and from that moment she became part of the fashion system and she had only a climb to success. Defined by all as a super model, she has captured the hearts of many designers appearing on the major fashion magazines and the most important red carpets of the world. Dolce & Gabbana face, her beauty is simple, not artificial, attractive. A true inspiration for many designers.
In 2011 she appears on a photo shooting for Fausto Puglisi, who at that time had the important chance to show his items at “Spiga2” the retail project of Dolce & Gabbana that gives the opportunity to young, unknown international and talented designers.
After five years, the two met again, as part of a solid family.
Nothing more to add then: WELCOME BACK BIANCA!

GG.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Museums as runways?

Milan Fashion Week has come and gone. As it happens twice a year, every year, all the chaos and all the fabulous suddenly disappear, moving to Paris as their last stop. This fashion week was very exciting for Milan and for the whole Italian fashion business: the press was enthusiastic, with Tim Blanks covering MFW on BoF with extremely positive reviews.

The last few days in Milan have been salutary. Maybe it’s the Gucci renaissance that has sparked the Milanese fashion establishment to fire on all cylinders.

Leaving aside the actual-fashion talking, let us spend a few words on the locations that were chosen to showcase – and celebrate – the Italian style. On Wednesday 24th, the opening lunch took place in Sala delle Cariatidi in Palazzo Reale, one of the most beautiful and historic buildings in Milan. It was a lovely way to highlight the deep connections existing between Italian art and Italian fashion, both expressions of what Made in Italy is about: creativity, elegance and craftsmanship.

 

fontana_milano

 

Even though Milan is not Rome nor Florence, it definitely offers a consistent amount of charming sites that might be suitable as runways: stressing the concept of an emotional arts-fashion affinity, museums and galleries could be the ideal location for défilés. Actually, this inspired combination already happened in the past: the Louvre Museum was the chosen location for many fashion shows, such as Louis Vuitton and Dior during different Paris Fashion Weeks.
In Milan, Pinacoteca di Brera, Museo del Novecento, GAM (Modern Art Gallery) could serve the purpose of many Italian designers. These places are sometimes used as locations to display accessories collection, but they very rarely models actually walk inside museums’ halls.
Few exceptions are the Arengario, which hosted Au Jour Le Jour and Vivetta, and open-space locations such as University of Milan, a XVII century building that often saw Missoni’s défilés.

 

71
Why shouldn’t this become a trend?  Fondazione Prada as well could be a beautiful setting for its own brand’s fashion show, thus establishing an undeniable connection, which is the way to create a deep, impactful story.

This strong, emotional link was already exploited by Stefano Ricci. In 2012, the florentine high-end luxury brand celebrated its 40th anniversary with a fashion show that took place in the Uffizi Gallery. It was a meaningful event, as it highlighted the strong, emotional connection between the brand and the idea of Made in Italy – not just in fashion but in arts as well.

Silvia Gramegna

Credits:  www.marcoklefisch.com
                 www.milanocultura.com
                 www.living.corriere.it

WEARING LIGHT DRESSES

Federico Sangalli Fashion Show

During the last Milan Fashion Week, I would witness the presentation of the new Federico Sangalli collection.

The fashion designer Federico Sangalli has created a new idea of trend with ancient taste: With the SANGALLI – Haute Couture – Factory of Dreams, he keep on the family tradition of unique dresses tailoring: evening dresses, ceremony, wedding and the “every special day” dresses; He looks for precious materials , for the luxury made to measure… the real luxury made in Italy.

The show/runway’s location was the Teatro Arsenale: in a space between ancientness and contemporaneity, you were taken to a far world, in a modern key.

On Tuesday, February 23, He presented the Light My Night collection, clothes and accessories created with a special fabric created by the combination of silk and fiber optics . A new path from emery cloth fiber optic lights create a delicate stardust effect.

The designer has recreated the atmosphere of the deep sea through a sound and light that recall the depths of the oceans play. The protagonists of his creations, shaped bags of shell and luminous transparency for the second show of the Light My Night collection that uses a fabric that glows gracefully with an effect between the bioluminescence and star dust.

IMG_0236

A dancer, dressed in a light, introduced the show and announced the prologue. A truly impressive display in which the wow effect was assured.

But the question in my mind was: How they are made this unnatural effect of the collection? The light was created from the optical fiber coated by the silk. The optical fiber wires was switched on with a battery charger with USB output for charging. Unbelievable! Thanks to this innovative fabric garments and accessories are illuminated with its own light creating unique effect each.

I’m really impressed by this show and by originality. I’ve seen something “wow”, creative and unique. This learnt me that we can and must dare and innovate constantly.

 

Photo credits: Federico Sangalli

Video credits: Me 

 

#MFW16/17 NOT TO BE MISSED…!

Here we are…
It’s Milan, it’s February… it’s Fashion Week finally!!!!!
This Fall/Winter 2016/2017 round has officially started on Wednesday 24 February and will last until Monday 29.

For all the ones of you who love this world, its magic allure, the incredible catwalks and so on, the Fashion Week is an unmisseable rendez-vous.
You want to know everything, at any time, about anything which is happening (or it’s going to) in this special week and live this experience to the fullest?! Here is the way…

Thanks to a collaboration between Camera Nazionale della Moda and Twitter you can follow all the fashion shows, and a lot more, live making this Fashion Week even more interactive and viral than you can image.
One of the hotspot is Piazza Gae Aulenti at the Unicredit Pavillion, the venue where the Fashion Hub Market, the new project for the emerging brands and fashion designers, has found its place…. and so has a huge uppercase hashtag.
fashion hub

It’s here that the first news of this Fashion Week takes place, the so called BlueRoom.  
In this special room top names of the fashion world will answer live to the questions everyone can make on the Twitter account of @cameramoda with the hashtag #MFWBlueRoom.

twitter

Some names that the BlueRoom will host are: Bianca Balti, Ennio Capasa, Margherita Maccapani Missoni, Renzo Rosso, Simone Marchetti and others.

Moreover, on @cameramoda with Twitter Mirror we will follow this week through celebrities signed selfies and special gifs.

 But that’s not over.. Twitter leads us in the fashion show backstages with the two Twitter Fashion Reporters Arianna Chieli (@ariannachieli) and Cleo Toms (@cleotoms) who will keep us update at 360 degrees with the latest news.

So don’t miss this fashion week… twitt #MFW!!

 

M&M

 

 

 

#MFW: outside the Fausto Puglisi Fashion Show

Milan, February 24: my first funny experience outside the Fausto Puglisi FW 2016/2017 Fashion Show.

Two weeks ago I had the opportunity to go to the Fausto Puglisi Fashion Show in Milan. And I spent almost all the time observing people and taking pictures outside the location of the show, in Palazzo Senato.

DSC_0555

The location of Fausto Puglisi Fashion Show

The atmosphere was lively and the location simple and impressive at the same time, with purple lights and majestic pillars.

Even if the show should have started at 06,30 pm, the majority of the VIPs didn’t arrive on time. Of course.

Concerning the the guests, it was amazing looking at their attitude and their willingness to show themselves. As soon they noticed my camera, they struck a pose and immediately asked me:”Where do you post my picture?“. No matter the age, exhibitionism is the rule and be noticed is the goal.

DSC_0409-cropDSC_0399
DSC_0472

 

 

I tried to focus my attention on street #trends regarding shoes of the VIPs and guests in general, extemporizing a  photographic set. It was February and it was cold as well. I was quite surprised to notice that the majority of the guests wore sandals, of course without any kind of tights. Here are my favourite shots.

 

 

The fashion show itself last ten minutes, and I was outside for more than one hours. The experience was unique and fantastic. People are always…. amazing!

 

Looking at the Milan’s stars

So here we are, time for Milan Fashion week is coming!
On the 24th of February the best and most famous Italian brands of woman fashion runways will start and where should we stay during these six amazing days?
Let’s have a look on some of the most famous, luxurious and original hotels in Milan.

Hotel Principe di Savoia is a reference in town as one of the oldest and famous five stars hotels. Since 1920 hotel Principe di Savoia hosts travellers from all around the globe. It is the symbol of Italian classical luxury which is combined with the highest technologies of this time. It is located in Piazza della Repubblica and has 301 rooms, about which 44 are suites. There are different kinds of suite, classical, junior and exclusive ones, of different sizes, from 46mq to 500mq. This 500mq suite is the Presidential Suite at the last floor. It is one of the biggest and exclusive suites in Europe and it is a combination of Italian and French design with antiques furniture. In this unique suite there are three bedrooms, a living area with a fireplace and a private Pompeii-style spa that include a swimming pool, Jacuzzi and Turkish bath. In the hotel there are also Il Salotto, the lobby lounge bar, Acanto restaurant and Principe Bar where you can enjoy a great after dinner. In Principe di Savoia hotel is possible to organize weddings and meetings too.

presidentialsuiteresized PRINCIPE

Another amazing hotel is the Mandarin Oriental, Milan in the city centre; it is occupying four exclusive 18th century buildings. The hotel offers a 900mq Spa and a dining area composed by the Mandarin Bar and Seta Restaurant in the external courtyard, with the bi-starred chef A. Guida. It has 72 rooms and 31 suits plus one presidential, all based on an essential and modern Italian design with Asiatic inspirations. The most important rooms are at the main floor. The Mandarin Hotels is famous for its hand cut marbles and its amazing atmosphere that make you feel home. In the Presidential Suite, of 150mq, there is a private kitchen where the chef is able to give the final signature to his courses for private dinner and the bathroom is covered with Brazilian marbles.

momln-mandarin-bar-counter.jpg

The third hotel I would like to share is The Yard that during the years evolved itself, from a guest house with few rooms to a boutique hotel very exclusive and extravagant. The Yard hotel is based on the sport theme everywhere there are objects and sports trophies that give to the incredible environment a retro atmosphere. These “souvenirs” are journey memories that make you curious like a child, start exploring every single corner of the hotel and dining area. There are 28 different suite: Junior suite, classical Suite, the Dependence and the Maison. The Maison are the most exclusive apartments in The Yard hotel, with every kind of comfort. The Hotel offers to its clients different services as skateboard rents and personal shopper and trainer. There is a boutique inside where some pieces of The Yard collection, of different epochs from ‘700 to ’50, are on sale. In dining area there is the famous Doping Bar a lounge bar really for dandy and gentleman that make you feel out of time, while drinking incredible cocktails.

DOPING CLUB.jpg

These three hotels are very different between each other but all of them give you the possibility to have and live an incredible, unforgettable and unique experience.

Photos:

http://www.mandarinoriental.com/milan/

https://www.dorchestercollection.com/it/milan/hotel-principe-di-savoia/

http://www.theyardmilano.com/

 

 

WINDOWS AS MIRROR BRANDS

A quick trip through shops could be the next source of inspiration during the incoming Milan Fashion Week. How can a brand impress people?

Window displays are like billboards for a store. They can be “the make or break factor“ in whether a customer enters in your shop or walks on, a sort of a front row seat for the viewer.

Aroud the world there are a lot of place where windows are unique and amazing just putting few things: a good designer eye, clothes, shoes, games and even food combined to create a stunning window display.

025-bergdorf-creative-display-window-jewel-staircase-theme.jpg

Producing a window that draws thousands of visitors is not a magic. There might be tricks that were applied to make it happen but it passes through a process. It started with research, brainstorming, sketching, making a layout and applying the basics of design in able to deliver the right message that you want your viewers to understand.

With a rich imaginative work, the authors interweaves fragments of history with contemporary illustration, colouring and using items made in 3D to stun people, in that way people are involved to go into shops and admire the new collection.

Brands can tell stories that sometimes they can’t convey in advertising or in-store experiences, they can express their heritage, the aim of the brand and also for sure the presentation of the collections in a different way, a sort of fairy tail only with images and items.

When we talk about “Art”, we deal more with aesthetics and the viewer’s personal interpretation of the subject, but when we talk about “Design”, we deal more with the single right message that can be understood by different type of people. In window display, we are trying to blend “Art” and “Design”. We want to show a spectacular snapshot with a unforgettable message.

Their target is to deliver the same message to different kind of people. They expect that everyone who looks at their window will get the message that they want you to perceive.

EcoChic Fashion week

Always running deep in a continual coming and going, moving downtown and being on time has been always a big issue for the Milanesi and it’s going to be even more complicated during the next FW2016/17 Men Fashion Week, taking place between 15th and 19th January.

Milan as well as so many others big Italian cities has been lately involved in the traffic block caused by the high pollution levels.
Will the most relevant fashion houses take care of it and how would they deal3fb6a8f773adcad71f603ef3f1b0bd07 with it?

We are already familiar with some eco-use of textile, natural or recycled materials on the runways, but it’s not just about it;
A heightened sensibility is growing all over the world, shared by members of the Manifesto of Sustainability, in relation to the eco-toxicological issues, environmental protection, product safety and the protection of people’s health.
The focus is on dyeing processes to avoid polluting the water and on water saving in the manufacturing processes. There is awareness that you can create value beyond the profit.”
As we can understand from Mario Boselli speech (ex President of Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana) one of the most crucial point nowadays is SUSTAINABILITY: the fine gap between ethic and eSthetic.

The solution: Let’s race from show to show in a chicer way, let’s create and embrace a real 360 eco-experience, from the raw materials and the processing techniques to our life style; on and off the runway.
Haling a taxi, calling your driver or click a Uber are nightmares to be forgot, let’s ride a customize bicycle or a very trendy and classic Vespa as our fav accessory.

It could be the perfect fit not only for models but also a smart way to survive the Men Fashion Week and live a greener City.

GG.

.  05-models-bikes-fashion-week-mingxi11Men-fashion-style-Bike-retro-hat-suit.jpg

Milan Fashion Week: let’s start again!

11056784_884971708219590_1957462979_n

No more beautiful models walking down the streets, no more photographers taking a picture of “no matter what”, no more fashionistas posing with their best outfit and looking for the best shot to be put on Instagram… Milan Fashion week (MFW) is over and it’s the right time to take stock of the Italian economy actual situation.

Continue reading

Fashion 2.0

Internet changes the way of telling and selling products on the catwalk .

iphone-5s-burberry-1

One second after the beginning of the show, the catwalks are online .

The mystery that has always hovered on the fashion collections seems to be evaporated.

6-hashtag-inesistenti-per-spiegare-la-settimana-della-moda_image_ini_620x465_downonly

Blame (or credit, depending on interpretation) of social networks, which bounce nearly simultaneous images of clothes and accessories, with a wealth of detail that meets any question and satisfies the curiosity of those who, from fashion shows, have been out, maybe just because they are on the other side of the world.

The plot of the walkways remains the same, but the way to tell is completely different than just a few years ago.

Continue reading

Kiton’s woman: back to the 70’s in a Tamara de Lempicka mood.

“Là, tout n’est qu’ordre et beauté,
Luxe, calme et volupté”

These lines from Invitation au voyage by Charles Baudelaire summarize the mood of Kiton’s presentation of the woman collection at the fashion week in Milan.
The 28th of February, in via Pontaccio 21 at Palazzo Kiton, three coloured theme rooms introduced the palette of the collection: green, blue and spicy orange. In these rooms, models were sitting on sofas and looking around, acting as spectators more than protagonists. Kiton’s woman looks like a woman of Tamara de Lempicka painting, elegant and voluptuous, set in the 70’s described as the most appreciated years from the brand.

The rarefied atmosphere is that of a piece of art, that beyond giving intellectual and sensorial pleasure, is also able to involve the actual spectator to the point of becoming part of the artistic context.  Continue reading

Max Mara: Milano Fashion Week f/w 2015-16

This season the Max Mara’s muse is Marilyn Monroe, photographed on the beach in 1962 by George Barris, wrapped only in a towel or a cardigan men. Max Mara and Marilyn Monroe, icons of classic chic, beauty and intelligence. Its retro sensuality relives the runway in the form of large collection’s signature coats kept closed by the models just like the actress in these photos: actually worn in a seductive way so as to repropose luxurious beach wraps.

MAX-MARA-2015-16-FW-MILAN-COLLECTION-001

And yet longuette tapered, pill adhering mesh, shiny fur-trimmed trench coats and suits in an unpublished version of pied-de-poule, spotted and check. With the added luxury of precious gold and platinum for the final outfit satin quilted.

Sweatshirts, bomber jackets, peacoats and overcoats: Marilyn’s menswear classics are reinvented in camel hair, cashmere, alpaca and quilted silk, as are her signature slip dresses, bustiers and pencil skirts. Silhouettes are shrunken or maxi-sized. The luminous colours recall the actress’ famous shoot on the beach.

images-1

Some details to summarize the collection’s spirit and main ideas:

Colours:
camel, beige, sage, black, ocher, white, concrete, bare sand, pale pink, ivory, mint, aquamarine, gold, platinum

Shapes:
tapered, oversized, wraparound, soft

Lengths:
only midi

Materials:
cloth, wool, cashmere, fur, leather, mesh, silk, jersey, mohair, tweed, lace, satin

Accessories:
sac-a-main pastel leather or pony, leather moccasins decorated with tassels, round toe pumps, clutch flat or pony skin, leather buckets, cat-eye glasses, nude pantyhose

images

Max Mara has always had a great respect for its origins, trying to enhance the experiences and paths that led to the foundation of the company in 1951 by Achille Maramotti and always focusing on their must-have product: the “COAT” .

That is the reason why “COATS! Max Mara, 60 years of Italian Fashion”, exciting trip across the history of Italian Fashion and through Max Mara iconic garment, was not unexpected at all.

MaxMara01_Big

The show was inaugurated in 2006 and hosted by the most prestigious museums in the world, including the Staatliche Museen in Berlin, the Mori Arts Center in Tokyo and the National Art Museum of China. The last stop of the show was at the State Historical Museum in Moscow: it took place on the 60th Group Anniversary, virtually crowning the celebrations and festivals in the name of an impressive fashion history.

The show deepens the Max Mara Group history and heritage with a section fully dedicated to precious coats: 70 rare models from the early 50s till today plus many beautiful photos for Max Mara advertising campaigns signed by Richard Avedon, Sarah Moon, Steven Meisel etc.. .

Every theme is analyzing a particular historical and cultural period of the company life: the beginning of the Group (in the ‘50s-‘60s), the link with publishers (‘70s), creativity (’80s), photography (’90s) and, finally in recent years, the industrial production.

coats-max-mara-2

Valentina Maria Fabbri

SOURCES

http://www.vogue.it/sfilate/sfilata/collezioni-autunno-inverno-2015-16/max-mara/commento

http://brand.maxmara.com/ww/runway

http://www.maxmarafashiongroup.com/en/timeline

http://www.maxmarafashiongroup.com/en/coats

Milan Fashion Week_Day 1 #highlights

February 25th is the date that stipulates the official start of Milan fashion week fall winter 2015-2016. 68 fashion shows, 76 presentations plus other events reaching the amounts of 151 collections. Mario Boselli, CNMI President is confident to be in a positive period that change for the better the forecasts and he thinks that the balance of this season trade surplus will reach 20 milion Euros. The collections will be presented in six days with a very organised and well structured schedule that intends retain all the press and buyers till the end of the week.

milano-moda-donna-2012

Continue reading