Moschino’s strong design is showing up in the bottom line

Sexuality and its obsessions are the main themes of Moschino 2018/2019 pre-fall winter collection. The pre-collection preview anticipates the mood of the main collection to be unveiled during the womenswear shows at the Milan Fashion Week starting tomorrow February the 20th.

The collection for sure will be as amazingly shocking as the preview!

High leather boots, dark masks covering the whole face, bustiers, garters and total latex looks are the year’s big news that captures the attention on the catwalk. The atmosphere that Jeremy Scott conveys is made of darkness, mystery and perversion: every piece of the collection becomes able to express its nature by itself, men and women swap their identities not only because of masks and big hats, but they exchange clothing and lingerie with an extreme confidence. At the end of the catwalk we have an additional proof of the mix of the two sexes:  a man and a women wear a “tandem white tie”: two white ties connected together that may suggest that both sexes fight for the elimination of discriminations due to sexual orientation.

Moschino perfectly understood the  equation for success in the fashion industry: being unique and combining creativity with a business mind. The brand occupies an important position on the international fashion stage, it’s one of the most talked about in Europe and Asia.

From 2013 the new creative director Jeremy Scott has literally catapaulted Moschino into the spotlight. Moschino is now a label for customers who love to shock: it is constantly finding new and modern inspirations like McDonald’s, Barbie, Looney Tunes and comics.

The brand’s success is a fact: the parent company Aeffe’s EBITDA was 30.4 million euro in the first 9 months of 2017, 25.2 million euro in 2016 and 19.3 million in 2015.

Sales of the group are going up year after year: from 268.825 million of 2015 to 280.691 million of 2016 and 234.973 million in 2017 (but only the first 9 months). Moschino is the largest selling brand of the group since the 67% of net profits come from this label. 

Looking at these numbers, Moschino’s success could very well continue in the future, but what the designer is going to unveil is still a surprise.

Credits to: http://www.vogue.it (image), www.aeffe.com (financial data)

Ekaterina Okoulik

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Do watches have emotions?

Do watches have their own emotions? The first immediate answer is “No”. But watches give us emotions – joy, anger, surprise, desire, rejection and hundreds of other states of mind. But is this fair that we can have all these emotions while watches always keep the same “face” even though they live every single minute, second? And their heart – balance – is always beating. For me it is not fair… and not for Konstantin Chaikin either.

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Konstantin Chaikin

Konstantin Chaikin wanted to let watches show their feelings. That’s why he put an end to this injustice. His new watch “Joker” is able not only to give, but also express emotions. Moreover, at every single minute of time, the Joker looks at the world in a different way.

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Let’s follow the mood of Joker. It is changing every minute and in 24 hours he manages to make thousands of different grimaces. Such a unique ability was given to him by an anthropomorphic dial with indicators which remind us of eyes and mouths. Two disk pointers demonstrate hours and minutes. Also you can find on the dial indicator of the lunar phases.

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Konstantin Chaykin realized his idea on the basis of the mechanism ETA 2824-2. This mechanism is well-known and easy to recognize in any watch. Usually in models with this caliber on the dial you can see the following indicators: the hands which indicate the day of the week and the month (usually in the center) and below – moon phase indicator. The “Joker” looks the same. The only differences we need to mention are :

  • no date hand;
  • instead of days and weeks disks – hour and minute ones.

This special module of indication is development of the manufacture of Konstantin Chaykin. It consists of more than 60 parts.

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The dial is decorated in a very special way – it is silver-plated, covered with ruthenium. It has two types of guilloche, frames are lacquered. The rim of the case is decorated with special engraving – we can see the luck symbol – an unbeatable poker combination “big five”.

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If we dive deep into the mechanism of this watch we will find the Caliber K07-0. This is automatic and can work autonomously for 38 hours. From behind you can not see it (doesn’t have sapphire glass). The case is in steel, diameter – 42 mm. The second crown is fixed and used to correct the lunar disk.

Unfortunately, I should admit that all the watches are already sold out. It is limited to 99 copies. But if you still want to buy one do not worry! You have a chance.  There is another version of this charismatic model. It’s called the Clown.

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From a technical point of view, Joker and Clown are identical, the difference between them is only in appearance and in the idea behind them. Konstantin dedicated them to the character of the movie “It”. He wanted to make a reminder of the main theme of Stephen King’s novel in which the writer doesn’t talk just about this nightmarish creature, but more about the adults’ indifference to children’s fears and problems. That’s why some of the money earned from the sale of the Clowns will be spent on children’s charities.

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His “Clown” was deliberately made not toothy and angry, but as an image of victory over this fear.

Do watches have the own emotions? Now I guess the reply would be changed from “No” to “Yes”

@Paul Poiret 2.0: save March 4 2018 in your calendar

 Good news from Paris – the maison created in 1903 by the “King of Fashion” Paul Poiret is relaunching

In the upcoming Paris Fashion Week Paul Poiret will take Céline’s time slot

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The innovative influence of Paul Poiret goes without saying: he transformed the fashion industry of the 20th century beyond recognition. In Paris and across the world world Poiret is known as “Le Magnifique”, as being one of the most extravagant and innovative designers of his time. The King made fearless use of bright colors, exotic fabrics and motifs inspired by Asian cultures and Russian folklore. Moreover, he has been credited with freeing women from corsets, which was a real achievement of the times.

Oriental style by Paul Poiret 

Poiret is lauded for the dresses and outfits created not only for the upper crust, but also for luxurious fur coats designed for actresses (among them the French stage star Réjane) and his scandalous jupe-culotte, which have become famous all over the world. Poiret personally developed a bottle and set up an advertising campaign for the perfumes, being the first couturier to do it commercially. However, in 1927 he was forced to close the atelier, as the era of more democratic and comfortable apparel came and Coco Chanel become its representative.

Réjane; Paul Poiret with the model

Paul Poiret is poised for an outstanding comeback, it is high time for renovations, said Anne Chapelle, the owner of the Belgian brands Ann Demeulemeester and Haider Ackermann, who two years ago became the CEO of the fashion house Paul Poiret.

In the interview for the British edition of Business of Fashion, Ann said that the first show of the renewed brand will be held on March 4 at Paris Fashion Week. The main emphasis of the collection will be on the generation of young girls and their dressing preferences, taking into account the heritage and the DNA of the House.

“Ann was my first journey. Haider was the second journey and Poiret is my third. It’s like reading a book to the new generation. You read a book and you try to transmit information to a new generation, which is actually the only thing we’re trying to do. We’re not magicians, we’re just trying to tell a beautiful story and make it relevant today,” – Anne Chapelle

Paul Poiret; Women wearing Paul Poiret

A high-end premier will take place two years after the company was acquired by the Korean group Shinsegae International from Luvanis in 2015. Financing Paul Poiret will Chung Yoo-Kyung, – the granddaughter of the founder of Samsung. Chung Yoo-Kyung has already helped Dries Van Noten, Céline and Moncler to open boutiques in South Korea. The group’s portfolio also houses Shinsegae department stores and the distribution of 30 luxury brands in South Korea. One of the most successful examples of the company’s activity is the restart of the famous Vionnet brand.

The creative director of the revived Paul Poiret house will be the Chinese designer Yiqing Yin, the winner of the Paris Grand Prize of Creation and Andam Prize competitions. Apart from the diploma of the Ensad National High School of Decorative Arts, Yiqing Yin has worked with Maison Léonard, Cartier, Guerlain, Hermès, Swarovski and Lancôme, as well as her own brand Yiqing Yin. As far as the designer’s qualifications are concerned, her draped designs were highly appreciated in recent years. However, in certain circles it is said that Yin stands in the shadow of the couturier and introducing light and relevance to the Paul Poiret Brand will require esprit de corps. Nevertheless,this young designer deserves applause at least for being brave enough to try.

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Yiqing Yin and Anne Chapelle

Currently Yiqing Yin together with Anne Chapelle are facing a challenging and ambitious task – to pull Paul Poiret Fashion House out from the museums and auctions, and making it popular and trendy not only among the collectors, but also among the buyers and customers.

“Starting a third time with a youngster, I don’t know if I would do that today with my own risk, because that is what I did with Ann and Haider. Here, it is a big corporate entity — and one with big values and wonderful ideology on creativity — that I wanted to do it for,”- Anne Chapelle

The first ready-to-wear collection will include clothes, shoes, bags and accessories made of leather. The brand considers the idea of launching a perfume line and its own cosmetics. Although, in recent years we have witnessed some stories of success, sometimes parent companies are too preoccupied about immediate sales from the heritage lines without any real data on what the brand history really means for clients. Luckily, the first collection of Poiret after the restart will be seen on March 4 at the Fashion Week in Paris and we will not be waiting too long to see what goes down with Poiret 2.0.

So, please, save the date. March 4, 2018.

Daria Antonova.

Renzo Rosso, what a genius…

“HANDBAG, handbag, watches, watches, real Diesel jeans, only the logos are fake!” These are the words that are constantly repeated every minute in New York’s Canal Street.

Imitation may be the sincerest form of flattery, but it’s been a scourge for fashion brands.

But that is, until now…

Diesel on Thursday February 8, revealed it has secretly opened an “authentic knock-off” store called Deisel on New York’s Canal Street, far from tony Madison Avenue, the Shops at Columbus Circle and SoHo, where the brand’s three Manhattan stores are located.

For a knock-off store, Diesel fittingly chose Canal Street, known for its jumble of crowded shops selling counterfeit and fake knock offs of luxury labels such as Gucci and Prada, designer fragrances and Rolex watches.

Here’s where it gets pretty interesting. “The unsuspecting shoppers probably did not realize then, but the items they bought at the Deisel store were actually one-of-a kind pieces specially crafted by the Diesel design team disguised with fake Deisel branding,” the company said. Operating in the same style as its Canal Street neighbors, the store’s interiors and selling experience played out authentically, Diesel said, adding that the brand filmed the experiment for posterity and to prove that  “those who are brave enough to venture off the beaten path to find their own unique style are rewarded.”

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“If someone copies you it means that your brand is worthy and top of mind with consumers, but at the same time we make every effort to protect our brand from counterfeit activity. We will keep fighting to protect our brand by implementing state-of-the-art technologies, we cannot have any tolerance for fraudsters – on and offline. We wanted to bring out our self-irony… and also to slightly mock the current logomania trend, in a Diesel way. We never want to take ourselves too seriously.” R. Rosso – OTB

The Diesel capsule collection features a playful – some might say perverse – version of Diesel’s red box logo printed on T-shirts, sweatshirts and hats. A limited edition collection of the brand’s denim and lifestyle products will also be available at the Canal Street location.

For the coming days, Diesel’s (or Deisel) store at 419 Broadway, at the corner of Canal Street will be selling any remaining stock.

 

Check out the hilarious video of Deisel NY: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=4&v=3pqRgD5Dg4c 

Francesca Borroni

Lefay Resort&Spa: when perception doubles expectation

New Luxury: space, nature, silence and quiet service, but attentive to every detail

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This is the first thing you see when you open Lefay Resort&Spa’s website (Lefay Resort&Spa) and with few words it sums up the concept of this successful company. This article won’t talk about the high numbers of treatments, massages and experiences you can live at Lefay, but it will have a more strategic and management overview of the company.

The first Lefay was born in 2008 at Gargnano, on Lake Garda and its objective is to become the Italy’s reference point for spas. It’s on its way because Lefay has received more than 50 awards in ten years. One of the most important, in 2016, as the best world destination Spa (World Luxury Spa Awards), opened the doors to the international market. Besides this, Lefay already has a diversified customer portfolio: foreign clientele makes up 70% of the business. A large number come from Russia and North America, but the majority are European customers from Germany, United Kingdom, Switzerland and Austria.

So, why not start a new business abroad, maintaining the same winning Italian offer? Lefay’s growth strategy takes into account the high demand from abroad, but as a first step the company prefers to enlarge the business in Italy.

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Sure enough the second Lefay is going to open (Summer 2019) in the beautiful landscape of

Madonna di Campiglio. Lefay moves from the relaxing view of the lake to an amazing view experience of the Dolomiti di Brenta. Probably another Spa will open later in the Tuscany area.

 

Once it completes its business plan in Italy, Lefay will focus on the international market. It knows very well where to make next steps: the R&D department works in advance and makes forecasts and projections for the future. Probably we will see a Lefay resort in Switzerland and Austria.

What is the secret of this success? It seems easy to say: to sell emotions and create places for our dreams. Right message, but how to make it concrete? Like for all luxury companies, the answer is to keep on investing. To invest in facilities and in the research of wonderful places. Using local products as much as possible, in order to make customers discover the real lifestyle of that area. At Gargnano, Lefay is located in the middle of olive trees, at the top of hills with the view of the Garda lake and there you can smell the unique scent of Garda area and its lemons.

 

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Nevertheless to describe an emotion is never as live it. The only way to experience the Lefay offer is to go there. For the moment in the area of Garda Lake, but soon also at the foot of Dolomiti.

 

Interview – l’azienda Italia

The Circle of Fashion

No, you didn’t get it wrong ! The title of this article is actually a “Lion King” reference. But what does a Disney movie about animals in Africa have to do with the crazy fashion world ? Read on to find out. 

The “The Lion King”, one of the most successful Disney pictures of all times, is centered on The Circle of Life. The Collins Dictionary defines The Circle of Life as “Nature’s way of taking and giving back life to Earth. It symbolizes the universe being sacred and divine. It represents the infinite nature of energy, meaning if something dies it gives new life to another”. It refers to how events tend to repeat themselves. In the film, we see it in Simba’s life: he grows, learns about manhood and becomes king; when he has a son, his son will grow up, learn and become the king. But an interesting thing is that we can use this analogy in the fashion business as well.

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In the early 1920s women were crazy about fringe and heavy embroidery, every woman needed to have a fringe and an embroidery dress in order to be cool and trendy. After the boom, fringe started to be considered tacky, or only cool for the country, But today, as we can see in several collections, fringe and heavy embroidery is back. The biggest example of this is Balmain, after the hire of Oliver Rousteing, when he started using these trends in many pieces of the collections, which we can still witness even on the last Balmain Collection.

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In 2016, the big trend was the “Hippie Chic”, a mix of the Coachella experience with the hippie community. Everybody was wearing relaxed fit clothes, with a lot of patterns, head jewelry, felt hats and other elements linked to the seventies.

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But now a days the easier way to confirm this cycle is with the Nineties comeback. A lot of fashion brands are investing in bringing old school trends, accessories and looks to the modern and tech world. The first example that come to our head are the belt bags: an essential item in the nineties that afterwards became a synonym of unstylish people, but since the end of 2017, they are definitely back. It is easy to spot someone wearing one of those in the streets of the big metropoles all over the world. One of the companies that we can blame for this comeback is Gucci, because last year they started promoting belt bags again, so all their stores in the world started carrying stylish versions of that item, changing the mentality and the taste of the people and making the item, before hated, the new most-loved piece.

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Another example of this Nineties comeback is track pants, an item that was once forgotten and now, with the help of many influencers like Dua Lipa, is definitely back, with new and fun shapes. Even Valentino surrendered to the trend, adding track pants to it’s 2018 men collection and also using the young singer, Troye Sivan, to promote it.

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We can see this trend becoming stronger every day in the modern world, when we see Louis Vuitton producing Goth-Inspired Slip-dresses, Balenciaga with neon accents boots, Prada with the platform shoes and a lot of brands producing cuffed high-waist jeans, elements that come from last century’s fashion.

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Analyzing this makes it easy to prove that comebacks are present throughout fashion history and this is something that is not changing, at least for now. Experts are making projections that in some years the Sixties will be back, in the same way the Nineties are today.  So, when in “The Lion King” the Circle of Life means that events tend to repeat themselves, in fashion we can make an analogy with the trends that keep coming back, creating the Circle of Fashion.

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Fernando Lucas Ferreira

 

Sources:

 

How luxury brands use social media to engage with their customers

Digital innovation, and, in particular, social media, are clearly reshaping the way companies communicate and engage with customers across all industries. In general, in recent years there has been a dramatic shift from top-down communication, dictated by the company itself, to peer-to-peer, where the community of customers – or potential ones – seems to be the new Holy Grail.

They want to discover, know, compare, ask about anything.

They want to be constantly amused and inspired by brands.

This epic shift represents a big challenge for the luxury world, where, until some time ago, the only way to create desire among customers was to show amazing pictures of models looking like goddesses on Vogue. As luxury brands clearly cannot ignore this social phenomenon, they must invest time, money and resources to come up with and to implement new marketing and communication strategies. On the one hand, this represents a challenge, but, on the other, a great opportunity to be creative on social media, for instance.

According to a recent study by PMX Agency, among the four major social platforms — Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and YouTube — the number of luxury social media followers “grew by over 27 percent in the past year, fueled primarily by growth in Instagram followers.” In addition, “followers took 936 million-plus engagement actions with luxury brands in the last 12 months”, Instagram being “the most popular luxury social platform in terms of engagement”.

The visual impact is strong, “#Solocosebelle” could be the general Instagram motto, which goes along very much with luxury. The limitation is that the target audience is very young: the largest percentage of visitors come from younger members of Generation X (22.7 %) and older Millennials (22.4 %), as confirmed by PMX Agency. The same study also revealed that social media users check luxury brands’ Facebook accounts just in 3.5% of the cases, followed only by YouTube (2.1%).

Other findings suggested that, for the third year in a row, “Chanel added the most Instagram followers  gaining 9.5 million in 2016-2017”, thanks to the right mix of content, such as fashion shows videos and star-studded photos.

Let’s now look at other examples of companies adopting the right digital communication strategy to engage with its customers:

Valentino seems to be the most efficient brand on Instagram according to the research conducted by Engagement Labs, mainly thanks to its frequent publication of content (40 per week), together with the high level of interaction with the community.

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Valentino on Instagram – Gigi Hadid on the SS 2018 Collection

Moschino, the rule-breaking brand,  has a knack for viral posts readapting its content in unconventional funny ways, with videos and GIFs that can easily be shared on different social media.

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Moschino GIFs are unconventional and pop, as the brand itself

YOOX is the winner for Whatsapp. Whatsapp for business, launched in January, is the new platform to interact with customers, allowing to send news on promotions, images on new products and so forth. In contrast with all the other social media, it allows to have a direct and targeted communication for every single customer.

YOOX has been able to sell a significant proportion of its online sales via Whatsapp after it started sharing its number with customers. Sounds weird? Mr. Federico Marchetti, CEO of the e-commerce giant, declared that about 40% of their higher-margin in-season revenue comes from just 2% of their clients, labelled as EIPs, or Extremely Important People. He also stated: “[…]We’ve made some of our biggest sales to EIPs by chatting to them through WhatsApp”. He, however, did not disclose any information on how the payments via Whatsapp work.

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Yoox is already selling via Whatsapp

 

Maybe Whatsapp is slowly trying to adopt the business model of WeChat? Born in 2011, this is the most popular social media in China: More than 700 million users, many of whom have their bank accounts linked directly to the service. Calling it social media is quite reductive, then: chat platform, marketing tool, global marketplace.

Among the luxury brands better exploiting the power of WeChat in China is Dior. The day it started to be present on WeChat (in August 2016), it launched a flash sale on the Lady Dior bags. The results were amazing: all the items sold out the same day.

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Dior was one of the first brands selling through WeChat

So, social media represents a great opportunity for luxury brands to communicate, engage and better understand their customers.

However, it must also be taken into account that fashion magazines and billboards continue to be a big deal for luxury brands, as suggested by Dante D’Angelo, chief digital marketing officer of Valentino: «[…] In the communication, print advertising still plays an important role».

 

Gaia Villatora Milic

 

 

Enchanted, surreal and totally unexpected: Missoni Magic MFWM18

Among Milan’s most evocative and undisclosed locations, in Via Ampolo 18, is a hidden gem: Mari&CO. Enchanted, surreal, magical and totally unexpected; designed and created by Marinella Rossi, through her extensive knowledge of culinary art. A family run, unique and humbling catering space.

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Credits to: Instagram.com/_marienco

The Concept

A key principle of modern event design: guests must be dazzled both when they arrive and when they leave an event.

Mari&CO have perfected this concept off to a fine art through creating unique and innovative dining experiences in numerous ways through art, spectacular, visual impressions and extravagant decor, while creating a setting to coincide with their audience; often brands, high profile exhibitions and fashion shows. The presentation of Missoni Fall/Winter 2018 for Men was followed by a dinner party at Mari&CO.

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Credits to: Instagram.com/manuelbogliolo

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Credits to: Instagram.com/memmomemmo

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Credits to: Instagram.com/julianhargreaves

This magical place of industrial architecture seeks to engage guests in an experience which aims to dazzle their senses, touches their hearts and stimulates their minds. Reaction amongst guests is created through exceeding expectations and building elements of surprise into the experience.

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Credits to: Instagram.com/patricknigro

Aesthetic stimulation is used to lead conversation and encourage intellectual appreciation through the creation of an interesting but obscure setting, transforming an unexpected venue into a spectacular space. The more effectively the experience engages with the senses, the more engaging the experience will be, suggesting why many brands are attracted to this space as a tool for meetings, showcasing art and products.

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Credits to: Instagram.com/thefashionablelampoon •

The Space

Collective and cultural memory stems from participation in a shared story (experience.)  

The owner takes guests on a journey, beginning with a small door, opening up to a path of discovery leading to unexpected large rooms with high ceilings and charm. The mystery environment draws guests into the setting with the interest to learn more. Spaces contain soft lighting with amazing installations of intertwined wood as chandeliers.

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Credits to: Instagram.com/olivierlanghendries

Tools of work which the owner has selected throughout her travels are displayed on long wooden shelves. It becomes apparent that she takes pride in her experiences through these objects, all well cataloged and perfectly maintained; glasses, ceramics, silver and baskets.

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Credits to: Instagram.com/alfonsofemia •

The garden is cosy, beautiful and full of plants, but this is where the magic is created: Enrico’s nest. Here the owner creates a research kitchen, supporting ideas and engaging guests into projects. The space has been described as a “home laboratory where you can immerse and discover yourself.”

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Credits to: Instagram.com/luciaparlato

What makes these events luxury?

The personalised design of this space creates events which are real time; guests share the unique experience, at the same time, moment and place, creating a deeper emotional connection amongst the group. The events are enriched through including elements of meaningful experiences in order to enhance memorabilia. Mari&CO’s events become more meaningful due to them being shared and communicated with others. They go beyond the individual’s lived experience, guests will not only consume the place, setting and experience at that moment in time but will produce and reproduce it through storytelling and Instagram posts.

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Credits to: Instagram.com/_marienco

The uniqueness of these events maintain exclusivity through each and every event being personalised to the brand/client. The authenticity and memorability of the experience enhances satisfaction levels and creates a unique selling point for Mari&CO, suggesting why this concept is a preferred choice for luxury and fashion brands. 

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Credits to: Instagram.com/grazia_it

 

Lucy Bunting

http://www.linkedin.com/in/lucy-bunting

Digital or Die: The Choice of Luxury Brands

DigitalLuxIt may not be widely recognized as such yet, but digital technology will be the game-changing innovation for luxury brands in our era.

The #DigitalRevolution came fast and forcefully, everywhere, to each business, whether they were ready for or not.

After it was initially met with uncertainty and scepticism, digital soon proved it was able to open up countless opportunities to create tailored offers and provide bespoke services to many more customers than ever before.

Its distribution channels widen the playing field for every sort business, luxury brands included, allowing to reach out to consumers impossible to get before, and engage online with them in markets where a brand has no (physical) stores.

According to a study by The Boston Consulting Group (BCG Focus, January 2014) in the US market alone, consumers anticipate spending between 20% and 30% of their total outlays online in the next few years.

But not all brands are there yet.

Indeed, luxury lags other consumer sectors when it comes to understanding and applying digital technologies.

For more than a few luxury brands, then, the issue really is embrace Digital or Die: the speed of technological development is endangering their current business models faster than they predicted.

The Hard Reality of Digital Everything

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Luxury brands are up against tough growth challenges.

If we look at the previous decade, their growth was all about consumer spending and new store openings in emerging markets—notably in China.

But the evident result is that today China has more luxury stores than its consumers demand, and consumer spending has cooled progressively.

So, one after the other, even the more reticent luxury brands had to admit that digital could make a transformative difference in their ability to reach and retain customers.

Nowadays, luxury goods and services are sought, sampled, and purchased in very different ways than they were in the past. Consumers expect efficient e-commerce, engaging and exciting interactions on social media, and multiple channels through which to interact with brands.

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Moreover, brands cannot delay the move toward more virtualized interactions with consumers. Although consumers will still want to interact physically with luxury products, they see virtual experiences as a path to more immediate gratification.

So now, brands value digital technologies as a way to create new products, novel business models and new channels, while exceeding and individualizing their services far beyond the store.

The simple fact is: digital is an inevitable, inescapable business shift.

New research from BCG indicates that currently, almost six out of ten luxury sales are digitally influenced.

The research (carried out on approximately 10,000 consumers in ten countries plus interviews with industry leaders) also found that online commerce, which now accounts for 7% of the global personal-luxury market, will grow further to make up 12% of that market by 2020.

“For every action there’s an equal (and opposite) reaction”

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Riding the new trends successfully is not a matter of setting up an appealing website or catching as many followers as possible on social networks.

Evident signs of change are also detected when disruptive novelties occur in the top management structure.

When Ralph Lauren CEO Patrice Louvet announced that the former Burberry’s director of digital marketing had been hired as the brand’s first chief digital officer, the underlying message was clear: finally, the American luxury brand was getting serious about enacting change.

“We are moving urgently to expand our digital presence all over the world. We have to meet consumers where they are, which is increasingly online, and digital expansion is one critical way we will drive new growth for our business and brand.”, stated Louvet.

Ralph Lauren’s action is striking: it demonstrates it is a different, open-minded luxury brand and, more importantly, to have understood the essential of getting up to speed in digital across all fronts — increase digital wholesale and direct retail sales, increase digital marketing spend, drive e-commerce platform management, and improve their presence on social platforms.

They signal to the world that time to invest on digital advancements came, and that progress is on the horizon.

The champions & the secret formula of “digital” success

Ralph Lauren was not the exception, but the rule.

Burberry, Marc Jacobs, Bentley, even historical luxury brands such as Hermes or Chanel, have  demonstrated they are ready to welcome this transformation.                                    First move, by creating engaging website and well-fed social media accounts, with the purpose of adding dimension that draws more potential customers to a brand.

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Chanel’s website, for example, features video clips from its runway shows, celebrities and legendary designers. More online customers mean more data can be collected, which can help hone a marketing strategy.

Chanel has been able to master YouTube by extending its global reach to half a million subscribers and more than 100 million viewers.

The Apple Watch Hermès represents a good example of new partnerships between an old-school luxury brand and the American technology giant brought by digital.

Net-a-Porter, in creating a global online luxury retailer and fashion magazine, illustrates how digital is reshaping distribution channels.

Michael Kors’ products were offered online through retailer Niemann Marcus. Embracing the concept of a dedicated eCommerce platform, MK ramped up their digital efforts and established their flagship online store, reporting a 73% growth in online sales.

Bentley’s website allows customers to take a virtual world tour in the cockpit of one of their luxury models — the next best thing to a real test drive.

They’ve also developed the Bentley ‘Inspirator’ — a personalization app that analyses customers’ facial and emotional reactions, then recommends the perfect personalized car, colour, and interior.

Key takeaways:

understanding when to expand into new markets is paramount to ensuring a healthy spike in growth, revenue, and profitability!

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How Luxury brands are embracing

the Internet revolution

Internet is the new China: it silently conquered us all. The immaculate Luxury world too. No exception.

The whole industry has a new challenge: appeal to #millennials.

#millennials are customers who are very knowledgeable about the real value of the product.

They are deeply influencing other generations towards how they are approaching luxury.

They tend to want to spend more on experiences rather than material things, and who now have more options to rent luxury items, for instance designer outfits, rather than own them.

With the ubiquity of personal technology – AKA mobile phone ownership – and consumer hunger for experiences beyond the sterile “add-to-bag & pay” e-commerce option, luxury brands had to heavily re-evaluate their engagement and retailing strategies.

Luxury is about #exclusivity. The Internet is about mass.                                                        And when reducing those boundaries, it’s the beginning of a real conflict no holds barred.                                                                                                                                                      So now, who do you think is holding all the aces in this battle?

If your answer is the customer, you’re damn right!

“Companies struggle with digital transformation because the scope of change is massive and often very disruptive” said study lead and Gartner analyst Mark Raskino.       “However, CEOs are under pressure from boards and external stakeholders to drive the digital future.”

So the conclusion is that as long as people are shopping online, luxury is going to have to go in that direction. 

A Generational Shift

In a study conducted for Fondazione Altagamma, Bain & Co. estimated the personal luxury goods market in 2016 was “essentially flat”, at about $264 billion, the third straight year of “modest growth” when excluding currency impact. However, sales dropped 3% each in the Americas and Asia (excluding Japan), two major luxury markets.

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According to another study carried out  by Deloitte, for the luxury industry “leadership will need to break free from nostalgia. Luxury is different, but not that different. Luxury is special, but not that special. For some luxury brands, there will be different pressures which come from heritage or private/family ownership—resulting in a risk of inertia, over-control, caution and a lack of agility.”

In a nutshell, luxury brands that have been reluctant to follow their peers into the digital arena they have no other choice but becoming more flexible and move with the times or they risk to become increasingly irrelevant and go meet a bleak end.

A New Battlefield

The challenges to a sector steeped in tradition are pretty clear:

  • Avoiding ‘throwing the baby out with the bathwater’ and ensuring any engagement strategy maintains all the good things associated with luxury— #quality, attention to detail, and #personalized service —while presenting them in a digitally enabled, agile context.
  • Recognizing the importance of providing cross-channel and social experiences, even if the brand has been built on a traditional in-store sales model.
  • Committing to investment in the best, most audience-appropriate digital services available to make sure there is continuity and #trust across all customer and sales journeys.

As Deloitte made clear, luxury brands that are unable or unwilling to keep pace with the ever-evolving digital experiences favoured by consumers are likely to find themselves on a dead end.

And there’s nothing worse – particularly in this sector – than being viewed as old fashioned, irrelevant and unable to take advantage of the most attractive elements:

Quality, superior service & experiences!

Stay tuned!

Cheers!

Virginia

 

Gucci Garden: a “conventional museum” between art, history and food

A new project, strongly desired by the creative director of Gucci, Alessandro Michele, is inaugurated inside the historic Palazzo della Mercanzia in Florence: a revolutionary space, which will host artistic exhibitions, the historical collections of the brand, a restaurant of the starred chef Massimo Bottura and some shops.

Gucci Palace

The Gucci Garden

Gucci takes up the concept of “conventional museum” and reinvents it as a living, collaborative and creative space, in which to express the aesthetic in perennial evolution and the philosophy of the maison. The Gucci Garden is not just a museum aimed at celebrating a rich historical archive, but represents an interactive space, in which the evolutionary character of the brand is expressed. Composed of several themed rooms, the Gucci Garden Gallery embodies the new vision of the Maison paying homage to the Gucci archive with historical advertising campaigns, a focus on craftsmanship and vintage objects.

Gucci Boutique

The Boutique

Divided into three rooms, the ground floor houses a boutique where you can buy unique items or limited edition, created only for the Gucci Garden and inspired by the collections of the label born in 1921, boxes with iconic graphics of the house, recent objects, mannequins covered satin, memorabilia, Gucci Decor, bags with new designs of bats and eyes, contemporary art objects.

Gucci Osteria

The Osteria by Massimo Bottura

On the left side of the entrance you can access another commercial area that introduces to the two small rooms of the Osteria curated by Massimo Bottura, a Michelin-starred chef, known for his Osteria Francescana in Modena.

In the rooms, entitled Guccification, Paraphernalia, Cosmorama, Chamber Cinema, De rerum natura, Ephemera it’s easy to be seen the story of Gucci as it was formed from 1921, the year of its foundation, until today. Clothes and accessories that constitute a narrative path, deliberately abandoning the chronological system.

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Guccification

The exhibition and historical area, distributed over two floors, opens with the Guccification room, dedicated to the double G of the Maison: in this room the double G and its interpretations are highlighted through leaders of yesterday and today, but also with the recent collaboration with GucciGhost, the work of designers such as Simon Foxton.

Paraphernalia

Paraphernalia

The route continues in the Paraphernalia halls, dedicated to the Maison’s codes: this room is dedicated to other icons of the brand, the moccasins, the clamp, the red-green striped ribbon. Cosmorama houses the suitcases and bags that are part of the birth of Gucci and tells the historical Gucci clientele of the international jet-set and the evolution of the heraldic element in the crest of the Maison.

In the rooms entitled De Rerum Natura we can see Gucci’s passion for flora and fauna expressed through vintage and contemporary clothing, silver animal statuettes produced by the Maison in the 50s, and original graphic material by Vittorio Accornero, at the which had been entrusted with the task of creating the printed Gucci Flora in 1966. But Gucci Garden is also botique. In addition to the bookshop on the ground floor, next to it, there is a unique boutique in the world. Offering only garments, inventions and branded Garden items. A collection that can only be found here.

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Cinema da Camera

Among the red velvet curtains of the Gucci Garden there is a chamber cinema, an auditorium with experimental film projections like the preview of Zeus Machine Phoenix, a short film created by Zapruder filmmakersgroup. In Ephemera there are documents, videos and objects from the history of Gucci.

The Gucci Garden will donate half the cost of the 8 euro ticket to restoration works for Florence, it will be free for the residents in Florence (on Mondays), the disabled, people over 65s and children under 12, and for the employees of the Maison.

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Pic by Gucci.com

Is Pitti the perfect timing for a boutique opening? Ask Moncler

Another year has come and gone and with it the timeless 93rd edition of Pitti Uomo, hosted in the austere yet relaxed Fortezza da Basso in Florence. Preserving the status of being the most exclusive and avant-guard platform for the launch of new projects for menswear since 1972, Pitti has once again met and overcome expectations. This year the event has delivered a long-lusted dose of extravagance and modernism, combined with an extraordinary organization that positively impressed both fashion houses and buyers.

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The flow of creativity has, in fact, spread outside the walls of the Fortress as well as within. Not only the main fashion houses have staged impeccable representations of their visions and missions through innovative and unique products, this year it seems some of them have even moved beyond the “simple” showing off of their goods.

One of the most successful Italian brands decided to ride the wave of Pitti’s exhibitionism to the next level. On January 10 2018, Moncler opened a new boutique in the very heart of Florence, between Via degli Strozzi and Piazza della Repubblica.

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Via degli Strozzi n 3. The interiors display a high-end grey marble for floors and wood for the wide ceilings. Sophisticated elements melt with the modern metal furniture and glass installations, all communicating the high attention to details the Maison has always been fond of.

For the globophonic brand, this has been an important step for its retail development strategy, strengthening their position within the Italian market. Within the just-opened two-floor boutique (more than 300 square meters), consumers can dive into the complete offer range of the brand’s products, from menswear to womenswear and children, including the high-end lines Gamme Rouge and Gamme Bleu, inspired by Italian and French Haute Couture. It goes without saying that a wide range of accessories is available as well.

Being able to always stick to its core values, Moncler has opened a new impressive boutique indeed, innovative yet faithful to its traditions. The new opening, classic yet playful, welcomed the guests with an exclusive cocktail party, displaying a huge snowman dressed in a ski goggle. The brand has moved beyond the classic marketing and promotion strategy, discovering new frontiers of customer engagement, reinforcing the direct relationship with its clients through the continuous refurbishment of the boutiques and a proactive customer relationship management (CRM). Once again the “From the mountain to the city” superstar has been able to be innovative not only in the products but also in the communication and CRM fields.

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From the thrill of this boutique opening, we can only start dreaming about fashion and luxury houses future developments, so stay linked! The reality we live in is moving so fast that Pitti seems already in the prehistory. Don’t miss out on the most exquisite events in the luxury world, the future is at the door!

 

C.S.

The kaiser of creativity at Pitti Uomo: Karl Lagerfeld

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Eclectic, creative, eccentric. These are the adjectives to describe the genius of Karl Lagerfeld. Creative director of Fendi and Chanel, and also a photographer, he choose Pitti Uomo 93 to introduce his new men’s fall/winter 2018 collection.

 

 

 

Lagerfeld created a unique label, “Karl Lagerfeld”, blending the two brands “Lagerfeld”  and “Karl Lagerfeld”. The collection presented at Pitti is a capsule curated by his long-time personal assistant Sébastien Jondeau.

 

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This multi-faceted collection can be split in 3 main categories, all inspired by Jondeau’s main interests. His passion for sports has given rise to motocross-inspired garments, like a bomber and 80’s jackets. The second section is made up of casual items, perfect for every days occasions, such as trousers, shirts and T-shirts. Lastly, he designed a whole formal and elegant section, with sophisticated three-piece suits, coats, and a huge variety of accessories, bags and shoes. An entire wardrobe for today’s man.

 

 

 

In 2016 Florece hosted the photo exhibition “Karl Lagerfeld. Vision of Fashion” at Palazzo Pitti, but this year the stylist attended the fair to show everyone his fall/winter collection. A special location has been reserved for this Griffe, the Sala dell’Orologio inside the Costruzioni Lorenesi.

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“Pitti represents an exciting platform to showcase our Karl Lagerfeld men’s collection and vision,” said Pier Paolo Righi, chief executive officer of Karl Lagerfeld to WWD. “It is our mission to continuously excite our consumers with great stories and make them a part of our brand experience.”

“My style is very urban, yet it can also be quite strict — strict and chic, since I can go from wearing sweats and a pair of Jordans to a three-piece suit,” Jondeau said to WWD. The capsule collection is set to launch in Karl Lagerfeld stores across the globe in August 2018, as well as online and via select wholesale partners.

Come as you are

Stately men with beards in narrow trousers, tanned naked ankles and pants of canary colors, pink linen suits and striped socks, colorful brogues, “butterflies” and scarves around their neck… You understand what I mean?

Yes, yes, for sure you’ve seen these crazy street style pictures in magazines, blogs and on social networks…

All this is Pitti Uomo, which is not a prepared fashion shoot, but reality.

This is the exhibition in Florence, which is on the same level with the men’s fashion weeks in Milan. The only difference is that all these people do not sit in rows along the catwalks, but slowly walk around, communicating with each other and taking pictures. From the visitors of Pitti Uomo you can see all the trends for real, and then you find those same styles on the stores’ shelves and hangers.

Pitti Uomo is the largest menswear trade show in Europe and is a professional event where Italian brands meet with journalists and show room owners to discuss (and sell) new trends in the design of men’s clothing.

But let’s turn back to people. Walking through the exhibition you can see people from all over the world. They have different nationalities, ages, professions…but always somehow connected with men’s fashion and style. Even if, obviously, different goals brought them here.

All of them now connected together by Pitti.

Looking at these men and women I understood that they were actually the main heroes of this “show”, the main actors in this movie.

So join me as I jump into this movie and make contact with the main characters.

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    • Two men in black. They are seemed to be brothers, friends…does not actually matter. They have their own special similar style that makes my glance stop here –black jackets, black trousers, white turtleneck and .. these trendy sneakers. What do you think is their role in this movie? I would prefer to think that they are bloggers from UK. Yes, our UK bloggers in black that are going to make many posts after the “show!”

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    • Lady in yellow coat and …green hair. What do you think her character is? Photographer? Why not…especially taking into consideration that she was taking the photos of already familiar characters. Let’s say that she came from UK together with them and now they will have phtoshoots and then will go to SSEINSE brand. Btw…small remark –these “actors” perfectly match the DNA of SSEINSE – “back to basic, because it’s time to be strong”. The brand is fantastic, interesting and a special one. Just in few words, if you like, you are warmly recommended to visit their Facebook page. https://ru-ru.facebook.com/sseinse/
    • Sseinse

But let’s move on to other players of the show.

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    • What is interesting this year  is the new colorful trend. Especially talking about hair (need to think about updating mine as well :))) We already got acquainted with the green-haired girl, so now let’s move to blue bearded man. For me he could have a perfect role of fashion editor in some fancy magazine. He is constantly on the phone checking millions of emails , looking through lots of photos, analyzing all the trends around.. perfect outfit for this role.

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    • Look at this couple. This is perfect reflection of the Pitti motion. They are a bit in hurry, aren’t they? This is for sure because they have their tough schedule of meetings and they can’t be late. They are journalists and they are collecting material, thoughts, phrases so that afterwards we can enjoy reading colorful articles about new trends in Pitti Uomo…or maybe some gossipy stories..why not? 🙂

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    • Every show must have this special, very extravagant character. Here we are — this cool eye-catching lady. Let me say that her style is a bit controversial. But at the end of the day there is no common taste for everyone. As long as she feels confident and comfortable with herself we feel the same.

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    • More Instagram bloggers. After making their photoshoot they are focused on posting photos in their Instagram profiles. I am sure you could easily find them by searching the hashtag #pittiuomostyle.

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    • Hey there! Pink is the new black…or blue, doesn’t actually matter as our next hero is the real proof of  it! Or at least this color is trendy for him and he looks fantastically cool! Bravo 🙂

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    • The same story with the shoes on massive platforms. Even though I was absolutely sure we stopped with it last season. But it seems not. So let me find  my old ones today!

All these people really inspired me to think about one thing. Fashion or style? Trendy or not? Pink or green? I was walking thinking about this and then suddenly I saw the answer my questions.

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There is  one thing that always continues to be trendy modern fashionable etc… it is classic. Looking at these two men I suddenly understood the real meaning of style and fashion. Fashion is the matter of flash – what is fashionable today is totally unfashionable tomorrow. But style.. it is something through time. It is something with a great substance behind it. I could not like  a pink color or massive shoes, these could be totally not trendy or fashionable. But without discussion each of us could have his own style and feeling totally ok, so let’s follow our own special path – both inner and outer.

From Fashion to Fine dining : THE GUCCI GARDEN

Massimo Bottura Gucci Osteria Firenze

Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s creative director, has recently completed a new project : the Gucci Garden.                                                                                                                                      

It opened its doors during the Pitti Uomo men’s fashion trade show in Florence.        Located in the heart of Florence, inside the historic Palazzo della Mercanzia which was the site of the Gucci Museo, Michele developed a multi-functional, creative and living space in three floors.

It’s not  simply a museum but is a combination of  exhibition space, a restaurant headed by three-Michelin-star chef Massimo Bottura and a boutique stocking exclusive merchandise.

The name “Gucci Garden” derives from the designer’s passion for nature. Michele said in a statement, “The garden is real, but it belongs above all to the mind, populated with plants and animals: like the snake, which slips in everywhere, and in a sense, symbolizes a perpetual beginning and a perpetual return.”

The ground floor houses the restaurant called Gucci Osteria, run by the three-Michelin star chef Massimo Bottura. He has chosen to create a new menu inspired by his travels around the globe and applied to Italian cuisine.

The menu will include iconic Italian dishes like handmade tortellini with Parmigiano Reggiano, mushroom risotto, and scampi. Peruvian tostadas and pork belly buns are some of the other items on the menu, but the chef also offers hot dogs and burgers.            The food is served on porcelain plates from Richard Ginori decorated with the brand’s paisley print, while napkins are embroidered to resemble Gucci shirts. The interior of the restaurant is designed to make its great cuisine stand out and references Gucci’s cultural heritage.

Gucci Osteria

Massimo Bottura Gucci Osteria Firenze

Adjacent to the restaurant,we find a baazar-like boutique which sells goods designed exclusively for Gucci Garden, from collections of shoes and bags in special materials to limited editon ready-to wear clothing such as a silk bomber jacket with the Gucci Garden gothic script. gucci store 6 gucci garden Gucci Garden: A New Gucci Experience in Florence gucci garden 6                                                                                                                                    The best part of it all is that these amazing collections and special items are only available at Gucci Garden and cannot be found anywhere else in the world!

The other two floors of the Palazzo are dedicated to the Galleria exhibition space that tells the fashion house’s heritage and new vision.

Divided into six themed rooms, the Gucci Garden Galleria displays Gucci vintage and contemporary pieces from its beginnings in Florence in 1921 as a maker of leather accessories and luggage to the current evolution of the house.

The itinerary starts right from the “Guccification” room that reclaims the iconic double G logo as a work of pop art and explores the many ways the logo has been transformed, including  works and iconic objects created by the previous designers Tom Ford and Frida Giannini (for example the iconic white liquid gown designed by Tom Ford).              The first floor ends with the “Cosmorama” room which is dedicated to bags, suitcases, and luggage created for a sophisticated and cosmopolitan traveller and for the  Cosmorama  the third room of the #GucciGarden Galleria, is dedicated to bags, suitcases, and luggage. It investigates the House s origins as a maker of leather goods for a sophisticated and cosmopolitan traveller. The emblem of the bell boy, or lift boy, a reference to founder Guccio Gucci s time as a porter at London s Savoy Hotel when a young man, is also profiled in a video, while travel bags in unusual materials, shapes and sizes adorn one wall, acting as a comment on the changing face of travel over the past century. Discover more through link in bio. #AlessandroMichele Gucci Garden Galleria opening hours: 10.00   19.30international jet set ( for instance the bamboo handle and the Jackie Bag ).

On the second floor there are two rooms dedicated to Nature called “De Rerum Natura” that  represent the House’s passion for flora and fauna. These rooms display clothes and accessories from different eras inspired by the animal and plant kingdoms, a continuing source of inspiration for Alessandro Michele; here we can find ten floral drawings by the artist Vittorio Accornero de Testa, who designed the famous Gucci Flora pattern in 1966. At the end of the itinerary is the “Ephemera” room, retracing the long history of Gucci through a collection of documents, magazines and objects.                          Additionally, there is a small “Cinema da camera” with red velvet curtains which is an auditorium for 30 people ,where visitors can watch films curated by the Galleria.

Exploring this new space, visitors live a unique experience between imagination and creativity and immerse themselves in the history of the fashion house.

It only costs 8 euro and a part of the ticket price for the Gucci Garden Galleria will be donated to support restoration projects in Florence.

So, visiting the Gucci Garden is most definitely a must when in Florence and I hope we will have the chance to explore it during our trip!

Anna Luongo

 

 

Source : https://www.gucci.com/it/it/st/stories/visions/article/gucci_garden

A “lesson” of Fashion at Pitti Uomo

Pitti Uomo is the first stop for the autumn-winter 2018 season and it is a film that gives a good lesson in contemporary fashion. But first of all, what is fashion in its essence?

Fashion is a fantastic container of ever-changing beauty and dynamic creativity, but it also appears, to many, as an incomprehensible mystery as a random process that defies comprehension. It is worth it to be able to understand fashion dialects? The answer is definitely affirmative, since fashion belongs to everyone, it is the spokesman for the mood we live in and represents a way of being.

But fashion is still a business, and the lack of rigor about “what to wear” immediately transforms it into a thriving enterprise of stimuli.

The most recurring questions nowadays might be: will men’s fashion be able to overcome women’s fashion? Will selling on internet fully skirt traditional distribution channels? Are Chinese emerging brands going to take over the world?

How would the complex fashion system in Italy reply, given it’s an articulated network where all the fashion, clothing, footwear, accessories and bijou sector interact and create the mood of trends.

The Italian fashion textile sector is of enormous importance for the economy of Italy, generating a trade surplus only second to machinery.

The competiveness of Made in Italy at international level is highlighted above all by investment in innovation, product research and development, tradition of productivity, knowledge and synergy between the various phases of the process and integrating with retail.

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During my time at Pitti Uomo I could appreciate some special products showing a huge interest in involving the environmental philosophy with a a strong dose of art, travel and photography. These closes are for normal customers who are seeking the quality of a new well-being in their lifestyle, a sportswear style with an experience of naturalness, in total respect for the environment. All the collections are aesthetically impeccable, imagined by young artistic talents or photographers who are ready to reply to questions posed by a metropolitan environment. Lines of footwear in eco-materials establish a new equilibrium between urban and outdoor style. Garments in organic cotton matched with an outerwear proposal, bags and accessories in certified and sometimes even recycled, raw material: despite their minimal appearance, they are resistant, machine-washable and durable. Sharp shapes take on meaning in light of a new and simple kind of beauty.

This is only a little lesson for me, like a drop of water in a wonderful sea rich with changes supported by artists and dreamers that create real fashion.

 

@PITTI Uomo 93: 5 tips to attract customers to your brand

Companies have different concepts, while clients have different priorities. By the way, there is one thing that makes different ideas alike – desire to sell what is produced and to buy what is on sale. However, what is the best way to make clients pay attention to your brand?

Direct report from @Pitti Immagine Uomo shows best examples.

#1. Bar + lounge zone.

A fresh drink, a cup of hot coffee or a snack, just decide what is better during a long working day at @Pitti Immagine! A small escape, where your guests can relax, take their time as they analyze the story and idea behind your company. Why did @Birkenstock decide to organize an individual hall? What are their origins? Is the furniture their production or only the fur shoes? Providing the things right in front of the seats – the best solution to let the customers know what you want them to know.

Bar at Birkenstock

#2. Things to take photos with.

@Instagram rules the world! Nowadays it has become the best way to promote your brand and attract customers’ attention. What a pleasure to check in and post a stylish photo, confirming your presence at such a great event. No one during the @Pitti Uomo 93 missed a chance to make a photo with two drawn Karls on the wall. Thanks to @KarlLagerfeldand its welcoming personnel, who invited the guests to enter the shop, visitors were able to do it either outside or inside the pavillion.

The wall of Karl Lagerfel’s pavilion 

#3. DJ saved my life.

Either house or pop music can engage crowds of customers in your boutique, especially if you manage to hit the mark by presenting the concept of your collection. The pavilion @Unconventional was full of press, buyers and designers, admiring the atmosphere and watching videos on the large screen the size of the whole wall. A trendy Dj also confirms that brands prefer to stay in the thick of the latest events in music, ready to keep up with the times.

DJ at Unconventional

#4. Photo shoots.

@Sseinse decided to make the pages of the magazine come alive. Right in the center of the shop there was a photo shoot of the clothes themselves. While inside the boutique the brand went all the way with a demonstration of the whole collection, but this time a runaway show with models. It gave visitors the feeling of being not at @Pitti, but on the cover or official website, a real feeling of being in the limelight.

Photo shoots at SSeinse

#5.Just you and your concept.

No news, good news. Following the concept of the brand allows for no surprises. The shop of @MC2StBarth at @Pitti was constructed like a real seaside villa on the coast of the ocean. So the clients entered and saw what they really expected to see: swimming wear, slippers or surfing equipment. Moreover, @Desigualdecided to follow the same path by displaying a life-size giraffe colored like zebra. Seems like Desigual, doesn’t it?

Desigual and MC2 St Barth

About @PITTI Immagine Uomo:

Currently, @Pitti Uomo is the most influential, and therefore the most important, platform in the field of men’s fashion. Mostly Italians, but also journalists, buyers and bloggers from all over the world come here.

For sure, @Pitti Uomo is the main event in the menswear industry. It is easy to get in touch with the owners of companies, designers and artisans who represent unique products. Moreover, the informality of the atmosphere and qualitative preselection of exhibitors of @Pitti determines its success as a business event, where you can show your brand  to the best advantage.

Daria Antonova.

What men prefer to wear today: an overview of Pitti 2018

A few seasons back the fashion world started to face a big change: traditional styles vs. emerging new ones. This year Pitti Immagine Uomo, the menswear fashion exhibition held at beautiful Florence,  showed a willingness to focus on an innovative future and unconventional styles for men.

Men’s closets  in 2018 are divided in two: on one side are the carryovers, products of the best quality with a traditional style that will never be out of fashion, and, on the other side,  lots of new styles the are super contemporary, scrappy and most of all genderless!

One of the keywords is streetwear, as men’s style is getting more and more casual eliminating the gap between the concept of luxury and the street  and (according to  Polat Uyal, Chief Merchandising Officer of BEYMEN, Istanbul) “Androgene Aesthetic, Military Inspiration, Astrology, Space and Slogans are the other key trends for the Fall Winter season”.

From the fashion shows at Pitti, some of the most extravagant and curious brands that emerged were: Concept Korea, one of the most interesting name of the Korean fashion research; Les benjamins brand of contemporary street wear style; and Luca Magliano with his new  collection making us suddenly enter into his dream “closet for a man in love” a combination of big volumes, interesting color matches, 80’s style and a kind of gangster feeling all together creating a different way of imagining men.

However the customary styles will continue to exist  with important examples like Fratelli Rossetti, a benchmark for Italian artisanal footwear,  with their iconic Brera loafer, or Brooks Brothers, the American brand famous for a timeless classic elegance, quality and artisanal manufacturing.

To promote the re-emergence of artisanality at Pitti, the special section “Make” was created for artisans coming from all over the world to show their artisanal pieces of a special workmanship but with a modern allure.

But the question for future designers is: What does the majority of consumers prefer today? An innovative vision, or remaining a little bit longer in the deeply-rooted traditions?

 

Credits to (image): http://www.pittimmagine.com/corporate/fairs/uomo/media-gallery/2018/pu93/beyondcloset.html

Ekaterina Okoulik

Ermenegildo Zegna: Bocconi University as the catwalk

Last season it was Cattolica, this time at Bocconi. Ermenegildo Zegna kicked off this year’s Milan Menswear Fashion Week by choosing a university as the location to show his company’s collection.

“Like the structure, which used classical Italian modernist elements of stone and reinforced concrete, even as it subverted the visual language with punchy graphic patchwork glass patterns. The name of the building is even in one-meter high script, stamped onto the underside of a reinforced concrete arch.” as Godfrey Deeny said.

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A “classic” men’s show, off limits to anyone without a personal invitation, more presentations and outdoor events: that is the trend for this edition.

The choice to pick Bocconi as its location demonstrates how this year’s men’s fashion week steps away from the confines of the “Quadrilattero della Moda” and involves the entire city of Milan.

The soft snow and the brutalist spaces of the university: the setting would be enough to describe the collection Ermenegildo Zegna designed by Alexander Sartori, that works with a man’s wardrobe that mixes sport and sartoriality more and more and, in this case, “nature and technicality.”

“It’s a conversation between the natural and the technical; built for this beautiful concrete space,” Sartori told  FashionNetwork.com.

His first inspiration came from the Swiss-German photographer Thomas Flechtner, who spent seven years taking surreal and outlandish photos of frozen landscapes.

The mix of modern architecture and nature with black, white and grey colors aims to  emphasize the man-versus-nature aspect, Sartori said. Outdoor spirit clashes with evolved tailoring, technology merges with tradition in a new expression of winter couture.

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It’s a contemporary concept of “sartorialità”, destined for the metropolitan life but without its hardness and  with continuous references to the DNA of the brand designed by Alessandro Sartori: the chromatic palette, mesh patterns depicting panoramic shots of the Zegna OASIS, pants adjustable from the bottom  thanks to the buttons, in the luxurious hoodie a wool padding.

Many coats have a belt that turns into martingale, and there’s a new version of the double breasted jacket. Models came from all nationalities , the result of a casting made around the world.

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Mirror of those Millennials that Gildo Zegna himself in an interview pointed out as a target to follow closely and to please, “because men, and especially young people, have still fun buying, especially if they find luxury enriched by innovation.” More generally, “Although French fashion is very competitive, Made in Italy is strong and must not give up.”

Francesco Oppo

How to surprise at MMFW 2018? Ask DSquared2

 

Do you want the answer to this question? Ask the Caten twins, Dean and Dan Caten, the founders of Dsquared2, an international fashion house.

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There weren’t the usual models on the catwalk this year, but cowboys and cowgirls celebrating the heritage of Dsquared2 and updating the iconic pieces of the brands: if you have a look at the catwalk you can see the new idea of wearing ripped jeans, tartan shirt, cowboy jacket and parka by Dsquared2.

Certainly this strange way to match clothes and styles is not the real surprise of this year, I mean, not for Dsquared2. So, what was the surprise that left the audience’s mouth open?

It’s time to start and the first model makes an appearance. She is a girl, no matter if it is the male fashion week, but who is she? She seems… Yes, she is!

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The beautiful Bella Hadid was opening the show of Dsquared2 2018. One of the most popular models today was walking the runway wearing cropped black pants and a red -and-black plaid Western inspired jacket over a denim button-up shirt. Details were a black bow tie, drop earrings and a logo’d belt. To complete the look, you couldn’t miss the black cutout booties featuring lace-up detailing from the collection.

 

Dsquared2 succeeded in their object: the public was astonished by this glamourous cowgirl.

The show continued with a lot of cowboys and cowgirls wearing satin dresses with bohemian paint, super fit cowboy shirts, overalls that became maxi tops and fuseaux full of sequins.

The show came to an end, suddenly, when  a bohemian goddess in fur appeared at the beginning of the catwalk. The second surprise from Caten twins was the wonderful model Kendal Jenner. Once more the guests are stunned. Two of the most in-demand and beautiful models of the moment on the catwalk. Who could have guessed?

 

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Kendal, following the style of the entire collection, but dressed totally different from her colleague and friend Bella, wore an enormous hooded fur coat paired with a plunging colourful bohemian-style floor-length dress featuring multiple layers and prints. Added style touches were a bold necklace, drop earrings and  Western-inspired open-toe cutout booties (like Bella’s).

 

 

It was clear, even before the show, that the main topic inspiring Dsquared2 would have been the Western fashion, as you could see also in their official Instagram profile; but nobody could have known that the two supermodels would grace the catwalk.

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No photos of the two on Instagram, no leaks giving away their presence in Milan during men’s fashion week. The two friends arrived in Milan in hiding.

So, finally, surprise success for Dsquared2. Hoping that the collection will have the same luck and positive vibes as the show had.

 

 

 

The three musketeers of Made in Italy

Perfect Fusion: Hublot teams up with Rubinacci and Italia Independent’s Lapo Elkann on its new watch collection.

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Mr Luca Rubinacci, creative director of the Italian tailoring house that bears his name, has long been one of the stars of Pitti Uomo. The way that Mr Rubinacci’s style combines dapper details with a relaxed fit explains why he has been from always a style icon for modern gentlemen. The Rubinacci family has been in the bespoke business since 1932, when Gennaro Rubinacci, an art collector with society connections, established the company, dubbing it “The London House” to remind customers of Savile Row. “Bebè,” as he was known, had a radical idea: to make unstructured, unlined jackets meant to be worn out of the office.

Thanks to its iconic style combined with traditions and craftsmanship, Rubinacci is now starting a new exiting partnership together with Hublot and Italia Independent’s Lapo Elkann. The Hublot Express rolled into Milan for the launch of what could be the LVMH brand’s best collaboration yet. Lapo Elkann has long been a favourite of both Jean-Claude Biver (president of LVMH Watches and Jewellery) and Ricardo Guadalupe (Hublot CEO) thanks to his ability to bring a sense of style and glamour to the brand.

A long term friend of the Rubinacci family, Elkann had the idea of raiding the Rubinacci fabric archives for inspiration. Rubinacci has some 60,000 square metres of fabric from which a selection of houndstooth, tartan and Prince-of-Wales check cloths were chosen to be incorporated into Hublot’s Classic Fusion chronographs.

Four collections, one of which for women, have been created from this partnership that combines the innovative approach of Lapo Elkann and the watchmaking and technological expertise of the Hublot Manufacture. For 2018, the stylish Hublot Classic Fusion Italia Independent has been given a sporty twist with the addition of a chronograph movement to three different limited editions. In all three, cutting edge materials resulting from extensive research conducted by Hublot combine with the elegance of the exquisite fabrics Lapo Elkann has chosen from the archives of the legendary Italian tailor, Rubinacci. For this collaboration, he has selected precious rolls of fabric inspiredby the 60s and 70s.

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Francesca Borroni

International Woolmark Prize @Pitti Uomo 93: who are the winners

The 93rd edition of Pitti Uomo hosted the prestigious International Woolmark Prize, an important forum for spotting new fashion talent. The UK’s Matthew Miller and Bodice of India won respectively the menswear and womenswear category, and DYNE was the winner for the Innovation Award.

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International Woolmark prize winners at Pitti Uomo 93

What does this prize celebrate? Born in 1953, its purpose is to discover and encourage creative talents around the world to express the beauty and versatility of Australian Merino wool, transforming it into fashion products. Not only the aspiring fashion stars are supported with trade development and helped in the manufacturing processes by the Australian wool-growing community, but they also face the challenge to influence customers’ perception of what a wool garment can be. Plus, the winners receive a substantial money prize and great commercial opportunities, including a chance to distribute their collection in prestigious department stores.

This prize is evidently not a joke – also considering that the winners of  the first editions were Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent. Great times ahead for the three emerging designers, then. Although they have had different inspirations and visions for their collections, they all surely created something very interesting.

Matthew Miller was able to work the Merino fiber in such a way to make it water resistant, eliminating also the plastic materials involved in the production, preferring recylcled materials. “Shapes serving the function”, the philosophy behind his collection.

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Matthew Miller collection

Bodice won the womenswear category thanks to the technology and the manufacturing skills within the production process. As a result, her collection combined elements of the tradition of the Australian merino wool with the artisanality of her country of origin, India. She closely worked with Biodye, a natural colour manufacturer in Sawantwadi (in the central part of the country) to get combinations of colors following Ayurveda. She also utilized coconuts, shells and wood to create the buttons, to complete her holistic approach.

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Bodice collection

Finally, the Innovation Award, promoted with Future Tech Lab, was given to DYNE, whose collection was inspired by the snowboard lessons in the 80’s. His collection includes zip-up hoodies, track pants, trench coats and pullovers. It has been treated so as to be water-repellent, and includes reflective overlays and inserts, functional pocket zips and laser-cut details.

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DYNE Collection

But the real innovation of Christopher Bevans is the introduction of NFC chips inside his technical garments to monitor the risk of avalanches. When tradition meets technology.

Gaia Villatora Milic

 

Photo credits: www.woolmarkprize.com

What is Luxury

What is luxury?

Before defining what it is, it is necessary to say what it is NOT: luxury is certainly not just money, it is not vulgarity and it is not even ostentation.

The concept of luxury is unquestionably linked to quality, of materials but not only: the quality of the idea from which the finished product is born. If there were not a great idea behind the creation of a luxury item, the result would be very poor.

The quality of luxury products, however, certainly depends on the details that form the good: an object such as a watch or a jewel is certainly catalogable as a luxury product only for the details (do you mean materials?) that compose it. The precision and love with which a luxury good is made is the secret of the luxury market, attention and care not found in any other sector.

Another key word for the luxury goods market is certainly “tradition”: the big brands are inextricably linked to this concept. It is only through the tradition and the past of great brands that quality is consolidated and, consequently, the value of a luxury item.
Necessarily connected to the concept of tradition is the “competence” that distinguishes the creation of a luxury item. Without this element all the products made in this market would lose their value.

However, a good mix between tradition and innovation is really important: the so called “nouveau riche” demand not only the greatness that comes mostly from crossovers, but wants to find in luxury something new and different from the past.

Finally, it is important to stress the relevance of the “tailor made” concept: almost all luxury goods are the result of a direct relationship with the customer, to ensure all their needs and to ensure that the product matches more fully to his tastes.

“Luxury is a necessity that begins when necessity ends” (Coco Chanel)