Moschino’s strong design is showing up in the bottom line

Sexuality and its obsessions are the main themes of Moschino 2018/2019 pre-fall winter collection. The pre-collection preview anticipates the mood of the main collection to be unveiled during the womenswear shows at the Milan Fashion Week starting tomorrow February the 20th.

The collection for sure will be as amazingly shocking as the preview!

High leather boots, dark masks covering the whole face, bustiers, garters and total latex looks are the year’s big news that captures the attention on the catwalk. The atmosphere that Jeremy Scott conveys is made of darkness, mystery and perversion: every piece of the collection becomes able to express its nature by itself, men and women swap their identities not only because of masks and big hats, but they exchange clothing and lingerie with an extreme confidence. At the end of the catwalk we have an additional proof of the mix of the two sexes:  a man and a women wear a “tandem white tie”: two white ties connected together that may suggest that both sexes fight for the elimination of discriminations due to sexual orientation.

Moschino perfectly understood the  equation for success in the fashion industry: being unique and combining creativity with a business mind. The brand occupies an important position on the international fashion stage, it’s one of the most talked about in Europe and Asia.

From 2013 the new creative director Jeremy Scott has literally catapaulted Moschino into the spotlight. Moschino is now a label for customers who love to shock: it is constantly finding new and modern inspirations like McDonald’s, Barbie, Looney Tunes and comics.

The brand’s success is a fact: the parent company Aeffe’s EBITDA was 30.4 million euro in the first 9 months of 2017, 25.2 million euro in 2016 and 19.3 million in 2015.

Sales of the group are going up year after year: from 268.825 million of 2015 to 280.691 million of 2016 and 234.973 million in 2017 (but only the first 9 months). Moschino is the largest selling brand of the group since the 67% of net profits come from this label. 

Looking at these numbers, Moschino’s success could very well continue in the future, but what the designer is going to unveil is still a surprise.

Credits to: http://www.vogue.it (image), www.aeffe.com (financial data)

Ekaterina Okoulik

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International Woolmark Prize @Pitti Uomo 93: who are the winners

The 93rd edition of Pitti Uomo hosted the prestigious International Woolmark Prize, an important forum for spotting new fashion talent. The UK’s Matthew Miller and Bodice of India won respectively the menswear and womenswear category, and DYNE was the winner for the Innovation Award.

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International Woolmark prize winners at Pitti Uomo 93

What does this prize celebrate? Born in 1953, its purpose is to discover and encourage creative talents around the world to express the beauty and versatility of Australian Merino wool, transforming it into fashion products. Not only the aspiring fashion stars are supported with trade development and helped in the manufacturing processes by the Australian wool-growing community, but they also face the challenge to influence customers’ perception of what a wool garment can be. Plus, the winners receive a substantial money prize and great commercial opportunities, including a chance to distribute their collection in prestigious department stores.

This prize is evidently not a joke – also considering that the winners of  the first editions were Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent. Great times ahead for the three emerging designers, then. Although they have had different inspirations and visions for their collections, they all surely created something very interesting.

Matthew Miller was able to work the Merino fiber in such a way to make it water resistant, eliminating also the plastic materials involved in the production, preferring recylcled materials. “Shapes serving the function”, the philosophy behind his collection.

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Matthew Miller collection

Bodice won the womenswear category thanks to the technology and the manufacturing skills within the production process. As a result, her collection combined elements of the tradition of the Australian merino wool with the artisanality of her country of origin, India. She closely worked with Biodye, a natural colour manufacturer in Sawantwadi (in the central part of the country) to get combinations of colors following Ayurveda. She also utilized coconuts, shells and wood to create the buttons, to complete her holistic approach.

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Bodice collection

Finally, the Innovation Award, promoted with Future Tech Lab, was given to DYNE, whose collection was inspired by the snowboard lessons in the 80’s. His collection includes zip-up hoodies, track pants, trench coats and pullovers. It has been treated so as to be water-repellent, and includes reflective overlays and inserts, functional pocket zips and laser-cut details.

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DYNE Collection

But the real innovation of Christopher Bevans is the introduction of NFC chips inside his technical garments to monitor the risk of avalanches. When tradition meets technology.

Gaia Villatora Milic

 

Photo credits: www.woolmarkprize.com

Fashion and Architecture: the “Prada Invites” Project

(Hi Sara! Very nice! Well written and short but with plenty of info. OK to publish)

Prada is a traditional brand which is trusted by many for its consistency of attitude.

However, at this year’s men’s fashion week it caused a sensation, since for the first time for a very long time it held its show in a different location: a company’s warehouse not far from the Fondazione Prada.

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Prada setup for Men's Fall 2018

For this occasion, the focus was the industrial side of the brand identity. Inside this warehouse, which looked like a surreal archive, guests could walk across a large forecourt, where each space was divided by plastic curtains and was full of big boxes and crates and metal shelves. All these elements were marked by ambiguous symbols: abstract accessories, mascots and recurring motifs.

 

But that’s not the only novelty at the brand’s Fall/Winter Fashion Show this year.

Indeed, as part of its Prada Invites project, the Milan-based house invited four renowned and talented creatives to each develop a special item by using Prada’s iconic nylon material, in order to manifest four radically different approaches that investigate the poetic, practical, technical and aesthetic aspect of nylon, as the company said.

Who are these four guest designers?

Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec The French design team started working together in 1999. Their work covers a wide range of disciplines (from jewelry to spaces, drawing, video and photography) and is part of the collections at MoMa and the Centre Pompidou. These two designers were invited to revisit the emblematic black nylon and the result for this collection is a a large artist’s folio with bright blue and yellow leather gussets.

crossbody bag                                                Photo: Instagram @prada

Konstantin Grcic Born in Germany, he studied at the Royal College of Art in London, where he met two designers who have been fundamental for his future work: Jasper Morrison and Vico Magistretti. He creates simple and elegant pieces that meet a wide range of needs. For the Prada project, he blended clothing and accessories, transforming the iconic fisherman’s jacket into a functional, multi-pocket apron.konstantin bag                                               Photo: Instagram @prada

Rem Koolhaas The Dutch architect, theorist and urban planner studied in Amsterdam, London and New York. In 1975, he founded OMA, one of the world’s biggest architectural firms. His works are mainly bold and super-sized. OMA has collaborated on several occasions with Prada, but in this one he was personally involved to re-define the house’s signature backpack, which was adapted for city dwellers by Koolhaas.koolhaas                                                Photo: Instagram @prada

Herzog & de Meuron The Swiss team Jacques Herzog and Pierre de Meuron both graduated from Zurich’s Ecole Polytechnique Fédérale in 1975. In 1978, they started the Herzog & de Meuron architecture firm. Their items are characterized by experimentation, as much in material choices as in the way they are used to create a poetic and concrete style. They had already worked with Prada (they developed the house’s “Epicenter” store in Tokyo) and in this occasion, they used language as a starting point, worked on the fabric like a verbal motif to create a relaxed short sleeve shirt, printed with text.

herzog de meuron                                                Photo: Instagram @prada

For more than two decades, this label has set trends. And with this show we can now understand what modern-day menswear looks like. Prada mixes wool suits with nylon jackets, but also technical fabrics with classic tailoring.

This F/W 2018 collection looks like it jumped out of the archives: we can see a blend of iconic black nylon items together with new designs. And it really looks like a Prada renaissance.

Have a look at the video of the Fashion Show here: Prada FW18 Show

References:

Prada Group – Prada Invites

Prada taps design luminaries for A/W 2018

Prada A/W 2018 – Wallpaper*

Prada to Show Men’s Fall 2018 Collection in New Location

 

Sara Saladino 

When art meets quality

What is the quality of a fashion product?

Precious, natural or technological fabrics, undisputed workmanship, perfect fitting that satisfies most of the sizes and conceals body imperfections, little details crafted with attention, with care, finishing touches that exalt the product refinement, accessories that won’t weigh down the image, hand-done embroideries.

Why do we need art?

Beauty is one of the conditions that brings us to happiness, there isn’t a single woman who is fully pleased by her appearance.  The ability of designers is to create a masterpiece that carries the concept that people will follow, a projection of a dream; it has to tell a story that satisfies fantasies and passing fancies.

When beauty meets quality the result is surprising: the designer’s idea is realized in a precise way and leads back to his main thought.

Something timeless is created, it never gets old, continues to remain precious.

Something unique is created and the person wearing it  feels satisfied and this satisfaction justifies the price.

Something that creates a heritage is produced.

This “something“ is the perfect definition of luxury.

Ekaterina Okoulik

 

 

Credits (image): https://www.albertaferretti.com/it

 

Louis Vuitton Objets Nomades  

One of the protagonists of the Milan Design week 2017 


The Objets Nomades Collection, enriched with 10 new items, was presented during the Milan Design Week 2017, from April 4th to 9th at Palazzo Bocconi.

The collection’s range, created in 2012, now includes 25 collectable and limited edition items, from a hammock to a deckchair, from a swing chair to a foldable stool.

Each product embodies the same ideals that combine the design skills of international designers and the savoir-faire of Louis Vuitton. The Objets Nomades collection keeps alive Louis Vuitton’s long tradition of beautifully crafted travel objects.

“Creativity, functionality and innovation have driven Louis Vuitton for more than 160 years. A design pioneer, Louis Vuitton has constantly anticipated fashion and kept pace with evolving lifestyles, and over time, the combination of its savoir-faire and the talents of renowned designers has created opportunities to develop inventive shapes, materials and products. This tradition continues with the creation of the Objets Nomades, an ever-expanding collection of limited edition, collectable furniture that is both inspired by the House’s historic Art of Travel and a reinterpretation of its essential spirit.”

This collection is made by the most creative designers of our times: Atelier Oï, Maarten Baas, Barber and Osgerby, the Campana Brothers, Damien Langlois-Meurinne, Nendo, Gwenaël Nicolas, Raw Edges, Patricia Urquiola, Marcel Wanders, and most recently, India Mahdavi and Tokujin Yoshioka.

The collection includes very different products, starting from the

∇ Campana Brothers’ biomorphic Cocoon chair

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∇ Spiral Lamp – Atelier Oï 

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∇ Blossom Stool – Tokujin Yoshioka 

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All the objects are realized in a skin the company calls “Nomade”: it is soft and strong at the same time,  and they are dedicated to particular travelers that love the link between beauty and functionality.


∇ From left: Raw Edges, Shelves and Concertina Chair; Atelier Oï, Stool, Hammock e Spiral Lamp; in the middle Talisman Table – India Mahdavi

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Among the others new products we find the Talisman Table of India Mandavi in beige and blue version.


∇ Palaver Chair and Swing Chair – Patricia Urquiola

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∇ Lune Chair – Marcel Wanderslouis-vuitton-objets-nomades-2017-02

Money to invest? Choose luxury

Think of the best investment goods. Think of gold, diamonds and stock markets. Now take them all and put them away. In a bag, for example.

Fashion, vanity, quality, status. Like it or not, there are plenty of reasons to purchase a designer bag. Anyway, there’s one single reason that will persuade even the most skeptical among you.

Let’s proceed step by step.

A study from baghunter.com underlined how the value of some iconic handbags has dramatically increased over the years.

The Hermès Birkin bag, the most loved by the stars.

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Every fashionista knows that there’s no life goal such as owning a Birkin. Expertly crafted, this simple-designed yet sophisticated bag is one of the greatest symbols of luxury.

There are several reasons for its incredibly high price.

First, remember that the price change is mainly due the discretion of Hermès. It is no secret that luxury brands apply stronger mark-ups on their products. In the case of the Birkin, the prices increase by between 5% and 10% annually for a new bag.

Second, the supreme quality of craftsmanship. This is a timeless bag created for longevity.

Third, scarcity. Only few handbags are produced every year, and they’re not advertised (as if they need to!)  That makes the Birkin even more coveted (hence the famous waiting list that can last for years). Get in line, ladies.

According to the study, a bag in excellent and pristine condition can fetch up to more than 120% of the money invested in the purchasing.

The Chanel Classic Flap Bag, the most iconic piece of the Parisian Maison.

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The research pointed out how the value of this handbag has only increased over the years. Like the Birkin, we can identify several factors to explain that. For sure, raw material and labor rising costs are what mainly underlies this phenomenon. Plus, don’t forget the inflation rates.

Even though the Flap Bag has always been the most appealing and popular of the brand, Chanel has also increased the price of other products with great fashion and trend potential (i.e. the Boy Bag).

What about the other brands?

A classic designer handbag will never lose its appeal. Although Hermès and Chanel are the most impressive cases, you should not underestimate the other brands capability to create value. As said before, high mark-ups are used in luxury to increase profit and to preserve the exclusivity of a brand. From a timeless piece you can always expect a surge in value.

If I was convincing enough for you to consider this new kind of investment, keep in mind just few simple rules:

  • Choose neutral tones: black, tan, beige, nude will never go out of style. Seasonal colours can provide you profit just for short term investments.
  • Exotic and precious skins are more expensive yet more valuable.
  • Timeless bags have, are, and always will be the most appreciated ones. They will increase their value from the moment you’ll purchase them.

Do not necessarily take this article as a financial advice. Au contraire, take it as something to open your mind about high-end goods. Yes, they might mean frivolousness and ostentation, but they can be something more.

If you’re not interested in investments that’s fine. If you only care about how a beautiful bag makes you feel I have nothing against it.

Isn’t it still an investment in happiness after all?

bags

Giulia Ferretti

Photo credits:

fashnberry.com

baghunter.com

net-a-porter.com

Sources:

Baghunter

Forbes

Financial Times

Time

Daily Mail

Observer

Do you really “love your curves”?

When fashion is becoming “democratic”

During one of his rare interviews, Zara owner Amancio Ortega has always remarked that his brand strength consists in having quick reactions to consumers’ demands, and no advertising.  Well, maybe  it would have been “Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt” also this time.

Let’s go back to last week: the Irish radio speaker Muireann O’Connell posted on her Twitter account last Zara campaign picture with a vitriolic comment – “You have got to be sh**ting me, Zara”. Actually, according to her absolutely Irish red hair and not properly skinny body, it seemed to be so: the leader of the Inditex Group was making fun of her and the majority of us. In fact, where the slogan says “Love your curves,” the models wearing Zara curvy jeans are fitting a size 36.

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Zara jeans campaign – Credits: Twitter

There’s something weird, it’s true. However, thanks to O’Connell’s tweet, a still unknown photo has become viral through social networks – the best place to share criticism and indignation in 21st century. Moving from the ironic “Love curves? Which curves?” to more fervent philippics about anorexia and a bad example for young generations, on the other hand a crowd of suspicions has alluded to a voluntarily ambiguous marketing and communication strategy. You know, there is only one thing in the world worse than being talked about, and that is not being talked about at all.

Whatever the hidden goal, the controversial advertising seemed not to have paid attention to what’s going on in the real fashion world. First the consecration of Victoria’s Secret Angels with their healthy, sexy and feminine silhouettes, then a star named Gigi Hadid has born even if she is a 86-64-89 model. Finally, the giant of fashion editorial industry, Vogue US, celebrates women overcoming the ancient prejudice based on the correlation “skeletons – models”.  The March 2017 cover story is an hymn to beauty and its revolution: starring current fashion and social icons such as above-mentioned Gigi, plus Ashley Graham, Kendall Jenner and the Italian Vittoria Ceretti, what stands out is the motto “No norm is the new norm”.  A trend that Dolce e Gabbana had already caught in their early runways and relaunched during the last Milan Women Fashion Week, when one hundred fifty men and women of every ethnic group, height and size run the catwalk under the hashtag #realpeople.

It looked like stone age, but it was only in 2012 that Dior excluded Jourdan Dunn from the fashion week because of her generous breasts. It’s time for real women to get their revenge.

Back to the last week’s episode, maybe Mr. Ortega and his marketing consultants should take a walk to one of  Zara’s shops in Italy. They would be amazed by the amount of S and XS sizes still on sale.

Alessandra Petagna

Cover ImageVogue Magazine

Sources:

The future of luxury brands: personal platforms and social media.

Do you know what the forced compliance theory is? It describes the unpleasant feeling that results from believing two contrary ideas at the same time, concentrating on the tendency that a person is induced to do something that might be contrary to his or her opinion in order to avoid dissonance.

Not so easy to understand, right? Actually this paradigm is widely used in marketing by inducing consumers to do something for a brand, an action expected to enhance and to amplify their attitudes towards the brand itself.

An important indicator comes from the social media world.

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Few days ago, Snapchat debuted on the stock exchange for a value of 25 billion dollars reconfirming the enormous power this platform has; it is by far the best place to reach the generation Z which is very fragmented and has a huge media consumption.

But how to engage them? Lets analyze this phenomena together.

Burberry planned everyhing in advance.

Art of the Trench, Burberry’s first social network step, was released in October 2009: it main goal was to stimulate the consumers by interacting with the brand itself, focusing on the ability to create content and to bulk a sense of belonging and affinity: anybody had the possibility to became a brand ambassador, posting pictures of themselves wearing Burberry’s clothes.

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The brand went forward, leveraging on continuous challanges of innovation, reinventing new customer values, and getting tuned with 21st century technologies.

It was 2010 when Christopher Bailey (chief executive and creative officer of Burberry, ndr) launched the project Burberry Acoustic: consumers could register on live.burberry.com and watch session of performances by new and emerging British bands wearing Burberry garments mixed in with their own clothes.

But all that glitters is not gold. A brand image can be ruined by a poor management of the site in any moment through:

  • Absence of a real daily interaction between the brand and its followers;
  • Lack of a deep and meaningful brand experience by seeing photos of others in the same outfits;
  • Not keeping social networks fresh and relevant.

This push towards social media marketing stands to be a positive one only if it is strictly connected in a customer-focused brand strategy.

Burberry also went beyond live streaming: during the SS 2016 fashion show, with a “public” of 100 million accounts, it shared pictures of the entire collection on Snapchat before its debut on the runway.

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How to take advantages of this super active audience? The brand offered a made-to-order catwalk service, selling runway pieces collection online immediately after the show ended: remeber that the final and ultimate goal is to bring the customers closer to the brand.

The last in.

Few days before the Paris Fashion Week 2017 Céline joined Instagram for the first time, reaching more than 50,000 followers after only one day. The French maison was the only one among all the other luxury brands that had snubbed the power of social media: it was not present  on Twitter and Facebook, something pretty strange for a luxury fashion brand nowadays.

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The capacity to keep these spaces active is fundamental to defining the macro-strategies used (such as coherence, interaction with the public, a dinamic scenary, etc).

The brand is seen as myth, as a lifestyle. It is strongly related with its heritage, proposed and celebrated through evoking a precise way of living.

The new CEO Séverine Merle has brought a more fresh approach to the brand, planning also to open an e-commerce website and test the results of the sales online within the end of the year.

Using the influencers to capitalize more.

An amazing idea came from the minds of Dolce&Gabbana: during their SS 2017 presentation, they manage to make the catwalk alive with diversity, sizes, shapes, ages, races.

Now the audience and the final customers are changed, and also the luxury world must adjust itself.

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A significant number of people appearently unknown, famous on social media, children-of, influencers or bloggers: they weren’t professionals, but the presentation was still unique.

The Tommy x tommy-tmygrl-iphone-1200x1170Gigi collection
made by Tommy Hilfiger in collaboration with the super model Gigi Hadid used Facebook’s first conversational shoppable experience.

It is an artificial intelligence that answers questions about the collection on Facebook Messenger, adds items to the user’s cart, and sends them to tommy.com to complete the purchase. The tool aim is the one of copying some of the features on China’s massively popular and sales app, WeChat.

Of course these partnerships can achieve engagement, but the actual conversion rate to sales is not garanted: only about 1,5% of online sales in 2016 can be attributed to social media, even if 75% of customers discover products there. Brands therefore consider Facebook, Instagram and Snapchat as media and advertising tools, with the hope that they will be also turned into e-commerce platforms.

The fashion, luxury and haute couture sectors are characterized by a strong and intensive presence on the social media. We can define this sociability form as a vertical one, represented by high respondance taxes of users who express in an emotional way the attachment to a brand, without creating a real flow of conversation between each other or the brand.

Even if they’re not buying, your customers want to talk to you and about you.

Burberry films its S/S 2014 show using the iPhone 5S

Anna Bizzozero

References:

BoF

Pambianco

Digital PR

Digiday Publishing Awards Europe

Collection Trends

Burberry

Céline

Dolce & Gabbana

#Makelovenotwalls

The day after the executive order on the Immigration Ban has been signed at the end of January, many brands have chosen to distance themselves from the new American President’s direction.

From the Nike Ceo Mark Parker who affirmed that: “Nike believes in a world where everyone celebrates the power of diversity. Regardless of whether or how you worship, where you come from or who you love”. To Francois Henri Pinault, French Ceo of Kering Group, who claimed that: “Diversity of origin, opinion and belief is part of our identity and our success.” The corporate world spoke out against Trump’s politics and even Diesel, one of the Italian heavyweight of fashion, did not hesitate to take its position.

Choosing not to stay silent, the Denim Brand has just launched a new provocative campaign: #makelovenotwalls. Directed by the iconic artist David LaChapelle, the latest SS17 advertising, aims to break down barriers in a moment in which hostility and fear seem to prevail over every other emotion. An exuberant clip and a colourful series of images able to communicate a meaningful storytelling around this theme is exactly what the photographer has been able to create. The wall, symbol of physical and mental separation, is destroyed by the dancers that leave behind them a heart-shaped hole. People are finally reunited all together in a peaceful atmosphere in which colours and flowers are spread everywhere. The video, that ends with the fulfilment of love through the marriage of a gay couple, becomes in this way a clear symbol of tolerance and acceptance of others. Moreover, the androgynous queer Kariseveral, as well as transgender like Raja, Laith Ashley and Octavia Hamlett, have been selected by Diesel to underline the message of the campaign.

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LaChapelle, who in 1991 already produced another emblematic campaign showing two sailors kissing each other, has once again helped the Company to push itself over the edge. As the brand’s artistic director Nicola Formichetti affirmed: “Diesel has taken a strong position against hate and, more than even, we want that the world to know that.”

The colourful inflatable tank featured in the ad, has just begun to tour the world, starting from London, before coming to Milan this week and continuing to Shanghai, New York, Berlin and Tokyo in the next months. The typical symbol of war is therefore emptied from its original scope and revisited as a sign of hope, that travels the globe to share its message of love. What historically has always divided, with Diesel is nowadays used to connect. So, if being provocative is nothing new to the brand, what should we expect for the future?

Elena Bruni

Credits:

youtube.com/Dieselcampaign

ss17.diesel.com

racked.com/beauty-react-trump-immigration-ban

In Carrie’s shoes

Manolo Blahník is conquering Milan with The art of shoes at Palazzo Morando

I have always loved the expression “be in someone else’s shoes”. Truly, I would have loved it more if I had ever had the chance of wearing Carrie Bradshaw’s ones. However, I have never walked down 5th Avenue in New York, I haven’t already met my Mr. Big and I usually wear flat boots.

By the way, I have good news for whoever grew on bread and Sex & the City like me: don’t panic, girls, you can live your dream!

From January 26 to April 9 Palazzo Morando is celebrating Manolo Blahník and his forty-five years of career with the exhibition “The art of shoes”, which allows visitors to see eighty drawings and two hundreds twelve of the Spanish designed most iconic shoes and discover a selection of ancient footwear coming from the archive of Palazzo Morando – Costume Moda Immagine. Soon also in Saint Petersburg, Prague, Madrid and finally Toronto in 2018, the King of shoes could have launched his retrospective nowhere but in Milan: the whole show is a tribute to his Italian sources of inspiration – and to Franca Sozzani, as he said during the opening event.

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Someone – please, read it as “men” – may ask: “Why should I go to this exhibition if I’m not a shoes – addicted?”. My little naïve friend, you should because Manolos mix art with fashion. The legend told us that the teenager Blahník made his decision of creating shoes after having been caught by the perfect proportions of the feet in the Greek sculptures. Indeed, his interest in art and architecture has strongly influenced his collections: he has often “stolen” Goya and Picasso use of colours and reinterpreted shapes and movements from Classical and Baroque geometrics blinking an eye to contemporary artists and designers.

Fascinated by the cinema industry due to Luchino Visconti, he collaborated with Sophia Coppola for Marie Antoinette in 2006. Just 16443381_10212272778762650_1003628768_n
a request: “We want her to be sexy”. So he did, as you can realize in the Gala area of the exhibition, where sequences from the movie show the moody Queen focused on eating as much brioches as she can and surrounded by shoes.

Pleasantly impertinent, ironic and unpredictable like his Avion ballet flat, Manolo Blahník’s key of success lies in his golden rule: “Have fun – but please do not wear sneakers”. And in the way he makes women feel, of course. We love Manolo because he loves us, as his long list of muses proves – from Brigitte Bardot to literary heroines such as Madame Bovary and Anna Karenina. Since he loves us, he is fully aware of our weaknesses – you know, diamonds and gems are girls’ best friends but our hearts can melt for some flowers, and they are evergreen in his collections. For the same reason he is so sensitive to perceive the way a pair of shoes can make us feel more confident, feminine, provocative and independent. Manolos can shock and speak louder than words.

So what are you still waiting for? Maybe you won’t ever spend more than 800 euros for a pair of Hangisi, but thanks to The art of shoes you could feel a Milanese Carrie Bradshaw for a while. Only by paying 10 euros – and without taking the risk of falling off twelve centimeters of amazing heels!

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Alessandra Petagna

 

Credits: Palazzo Morando – Costume Moda Immagine

About me: Giulia Ferretti

image-blog-introduction

Curious, imaginative and a bit awkward.

I was born in the lovely city of Rome in 1993 and I’ve lived there until I moved to Milan to study at Bocconi University. I graduated with a degree in Economics and management for art, culture and communication.

Alongside art, I’m deeply interested in the luxury sector. The fields that I like the most are the automotive one, fashion and jewellery.

I go crazy over handcrafted and artisanal products!

Come join this journey!

Check out my articles:

Join me on Linkedin: Giulia Ferretti

Fashion & Young Subcultures

How fashion brands ride the wave

Since the dawn of time, social and cultural habits have been the main driver on the definition of style and fashion trends.

The relation between society&fashion has been always so strong and important that in the years the fashion brands arrived to gain the role of “social border definer”, and we are not talking about the healthy status definition classically made up by luxury brands, but about cultural tribe status definition.

Fashion brand marketing departments arrived to understand how in the Postmodernity era people set indipendence and individuality as their prior, but at the same time try to belong to several different tribes with a specific style code and a relative niche market.

Thinking on the success of fashion luxury brand like Prada, originally borned to dress the new strong woman fighting for the feminims emancipation during the ’70, we can understand how this relation changed in the last decade with the emerging of young subculters that does not come from real underground social movement but from the Web.

prada feminism

(Miuccia Prada during a nonviolent protest pro women rights in ’70)

Starting from this point, if is true that social network and blogs are the new spaces of integration for our society, is also true that these spaces are governed and regulated by fashion brands that fill the channels with their advertising, give style dogma through influencers and create new young subcultures like Witch House, Vaporwave, Soft Grunge and Health Goth.

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( Seapunk Facebook Community)

Facebook, Instagram and Tumbler are the new “manifesto” of that subculture on which many fashion brands decided to invest creating dedicated collections.

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(Alexander Wang with his last Collection in Health Goth Style)

These subculters does not came from artistic, political or social identity, but only from a style identity imposed by fashion brands with social-art fanciful ambitions.

For those who think that it’s a market related only to mass-market brands, the analysis of brand like Y-3 or Vetemens could be helpful to understand how also luxury fashion brands are involved in to this process.

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Vetements is one of the refernce brands for Normcore subculture with the iconic DHL T-Shirt selled at a price of 245€, while for the Health-Goth  the Y-3 Qasa High are the must-have training shoes, selled in the shops at a price of 390€.

How counterfeiting affects the luxury market

Counterfeited and pirated goods accounted for up to 2.5 percent of world trade, $461 billlion, demaging companies and state coffers.

The trade in fake products has also worsened in the past decade. The organisation for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD) in previous study of 2008 estimated it up to 1.9 percent of the world imports, $200 billion.

Recent studies assert that the impact of counterfeiting is greater for rich countries, where most of the companies, making the higlhy desiderables branded goods, are based. European Union imported up to 5 percent of fake goods in 2013, $116 billion.

Same studies appoint China as the largest producer of counterfeited products. The reason of this increasing phenomeno can be found in the emergence of globalised value chain and in the booming e-commerce as distribution channel.AAEAAQAAAAAAAAQuAAAAJGVmZDNiM2Q4LWM4MzItNDY0MS1hMGVlLTRhZTkxZjdkYTU2MQ

Just few days ago the counterfeiting issue came up on magazines because Alibaba, the Chinese e-commerce giant, signed to become member of the International Anti-Counterfeiting Coalition.

The reaction of some brands such as Gucci and Michael Kors has been very strong and determined. The outrage over Alibaba’s membership raises fresh questions about how effective Alibaba has been in fighting fakes as it pushes to take its e-commerce juggernaut global.

Gucci, along with other Kering Group brands like Balenciaga have quitted the International Anti-Counterfeiting Coalition and they are suing Alibaba in the New York federal court. The Kering’s brands accuse Alibaba of knowingly encouraging and profiting from the sale of counterfeit goods on its e-commerce platform.

Alibaba answered to this strong accuse just saying that it is a “wasteful litigation”.

As result of the difficult situation by last Saturday Gucci’s name had been struck from the IACC’s website and Alibaba’s membership falls into a special category, without leadership position and voting rights. The Chinise e-commerce giant asserts that being still effectively member of the IACC would allow it to work more closely and effectively with brands to proactively enforce intellectual property rights.

All that glitter is not gold

Looking at the Luxury world, where everythings is excellence oriented, is not difficult to realize that it is facing a period of big changes.

Many different trends lead, with their own role, the Luxury environment generating confusion and at the same time creating new paths and opportunities for future challenges.

A new calendar is going to replace partially the traditional one. The “Luxury Institution” is probably trying to get closer and closer to its customers and the See now-Buy now approach, which is having a wide and spread approval among brands which belong to the fashion field in the premium and luxury levels, can be considered the proof.

The trend which has been launched by Burberry and shared by other brands such as Michael Kors, Tom Ford, Tommy Hilfiger and Brioni with its new creative director Justin O’Shea, has became a huge issue to face, which could change the logic behind the “luxury experience” and the traditional organisation of the supplay chain.

Prada, Alexander Wang, on the other hand, have preferred to catch the new wave in a partial way. They launched for the FW-17 small capsule or just few pieces , part of their main collections, talking not about ready to wear, but ready to live, available just in the most important flagship stores all over the world. Artistic directors such as Arnaud Vaillant and Sebastien Meyer defined it “a common sense decision”.

Another significant new will affect the traditional calendar, Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele, beginning in 2017, will present one unified collection on the runway each season, he wants to integrate women’s and men’s fashion shows.image1

Alessandro Michele said in a statement

 “It seems only natural to me to present my men’s and women’s collections together. It is the way I see the world today”.

Gucci has been followed by Bottega Veneta and Marras in the decision to merge woman’s and man’s collections in the same catwalk.

How can these trends be defined now that they are drivers into the Luxury market?

Can they be considered as the natural effect of the fast-evolving approach which has always characterized the fashion field? Or is more about a way to escape the difficulties that the Luxury field is experiencing?

ARTcommunication

It is famous all around the world, it is inspirational for anyone loving art and it is just located in the very heart of Italy, Florence:

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The Birth of Venus (1482-1485) by Sandro Botticelli 

The “Galleria degli Uffizi” in Florence is an absolutely must as it is one of the most famous museums in the world. Visitors enjoy famous artworks and masterpieces in an historic building from 1574 representing Italy’s highly architecture excellence as its best. Botticelli, Giotto, Cimabue, Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci and Raffaello are just a few names showing the dimension of exclusive artists and the greatness of a collection which is focused on the Renaissance and the time between the 12th and 17th centuries.

The museum explains the meaning of Botticelli’s Venus by using the approach of the Neoplatonic philosophy. Therefore the painting can be seen as showing “the birth of love and the spiritual beauty as a driving force of life.” So Sandro Botticelli is not just called a simple painter. He’s described as “one of the greatest poets of the line and drawing”.

 

‘Painting is poetry that is seen rather than felt, and poetry is painting that is felt rather than seen.’ (Leonardo da Vinci)

 

While I was standing these days in front of the “Birth of Venus”, celebrating the view as a luxury moment, I was questioning myself:

What else communicates art and galleries nowadays than just culture, beauty and inspiration?

Businesses today are looking at interesting ways to reach out to quality audience,” said Sanjay Sharma, one of the international management at global auction house Christie’s in an interview  with the Economic Times Magazine. He describes Art as becoming an increasing communication tool for luxury brands to reach the upper class which invest in high-end art. Nowadays art galleries and auctioneers are seen as partner channel with a specific function:  To access to the target group and exchange knowledge and awareness.

Sotheby’s, the global art business auctioneers, offering since 1744 extraordinary opportunities to transact via private sales galleries or worldwide selling exhibitions, adapt to this point by offering even summer study courses in Understanding the Luxury Market . Thomaï Serdari, Luxury Brand Strategist and Lecturer at Sotheby’s Institute of Art in New York, teachs in it the “5 things you need to know”.

1. Luxury does not necessarily mean “old.”

2. The luxury market does not favor the rich but rather the smart shopper.

3. Luxury is both an indulgence and an investment.

4. The luxury market favors the well prepared.

5. The luxury market itself is not a thing of the past but constantly in flux.

 

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If you once stand in front of an historic or contemporary painting while being in a gallery or museum, never underestimate the presence and force of it as being more than just a piece of beauty, culture and inspiration –

Art wasis and will be pure communication – especially when appreciating it with a luxury view.

Is activewear the new black?

Over the past seven years, sports apparel and footwear sales have jumped 42% to $270 B. According to Morgan Stanley, the report estimates that the industry could add $83 B in sales by 2020. These impressive numbers are due to the growing interest on fitness and active lifestyle that is now a peculiar feature of our current times. The recent focus on healthy living has driven more and more people to take care of the way they dress while doing sports: not only professional athletes, but also amateurs and especially younger ones.

The biggest market for activewear is the US, which currently accounts for $97 B. A research from Morgan Stanley forecasts a stable growth in the European market in the next five years. Yet, the key market to watch will definitely be Asia Pacific and especially China, where the government is promoting an active lifestyle among the population, developing sports infrastructure and the overall business.

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Alongside sportswear, the last frontier is now the so called “athleisure“, which indicates highly performing yet fashionable apparel, wearable in daily activities. Since sportswear is not anymore relegated to the gym, the fashion industry is taking the next step to make the most of the healthy lifestyle trend. The biggest player, ça va sans dire, is the American giant Nike, which owns a large slice of the market. Yet, there are many other activewear brands that have emerged in the past decade, riding on the success of sports and fitness. Among the others, the Canadian yoga brand Lululemon Athletica was able to create a real movement that now gathers thousands of women who are committed to the Lululemon cause and believe in the brand’s ethos.

Famous designers as well have joined the athleisure trend, either collaborating with popular sports brands, such as Adidas by Stella McCartney, or creating their own line. This is what Tory Burch did in 2015: the American designer launched her own activewear label Tory Sport during last year’s New York Fashion Week, pricing her goods a little above competitors such as Lululemon. A few months later, in April 2016, Tory Sport set up its first store in NY, which was celebrated with a grand opening party attended by Anna Wintour, Narciso Rodriguez and Chanel Iman.

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Tory Sport Advertising Campaign

Last, of course, came street fashion: big names like Zara, Oysho (both belonging to the Spanish group Inditex) and H&M are now launching their own activewear lines. Zara in particular seems to be counting a lot on its new gymwear collection, which includes four categories: basics, swimwear, loungewear luxe and lightweight pieces. It is clear that Zara is trying to position itself as a convincing, affordable alternative to the real activewear luxury. Will it succeed? Or is the targeted customer a totally different one?

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This whole trend revolves around the idea of self-improvement and growth and it is nurtured by the culture of mens sana in corpore sano: especially among millennials, the tendency is to spend larger and larger amounts of money on activities and experiences rather than material goods. Over the past ten years, this fitness fever has grown into a multi-billion dollar industry which does not seem to be ceasing any time soon.

Silvia Gramegna

Credits: www.fashiongonerogue.com
              www.welltodolondon.com
              www.alternativelyhealthy.co.uk

THE FUTURE OF MADE-TO-MEASURE

The Future of Fashion Is 3D

We will be printing high-fashion dresses in our homes- but not for now.

On May 5, the Met Costume Institute’s Spring exhibition will open the doors and visitors will be treated to 90 fashion mise, including many items made with 3D printing, pretty much as the exclusive purview of haute couture, up to now.

But if the technology is adopted by more apparel makers and trickled down to the masses, “it can be as revolutionary as the sewing machine,” said Andrew Bolton, curator of the exhibition. “It means you can 3D print your dress to your exact measurements at home.” “Because it has the ability to mould exactly to your measurements, it’s environmentally friendly, too” Bolton said. “There’s no waste, whereas there’s always waste with textiles.”

By the way, 3D printing is still very much in its early stages.
The capability to make virtually anything is going on. Reality is becoming Virtual Reality.
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At the current stage, we should be satisfied to call home-printing dresses “a dream.”
Credits:

The wave bag

For the upcoming SS Season 2016 Tod’s launched the new and modern Wave Bag, the perfect mix “characterized by excellent craftsmanship and luxury materials in different sizes, models” and what better way to celebrate it, than an all-female advertisement campaign? 

In order to communicate the versatility both in usage and in style of this future icon item, “the Italian apparel and accessories house is highlighting the “special attitude” of its Wave Bag in a personality-driven campaign featuring modern creative talents.”

“Wave Attitude”
is the title of the video where the main character is the Tod’s Band, a posse of 15 females from the music, art, fashion and film worlds, all of whom come to the brand with their own perspectives on style, modeling the handbag in their own way.                       This is not the first time that Tod’s uses this special and involving format to promote and impress customers throughout influencers and ambassadors who represent and embody totally both the personality of the item and the values of the Brand. It’s a very particolar communication tool, with the strong competitive advantage to build a solid relation between the brand and the users,  attract customers attention being able to establish a long term relationship since it will be a movie divided in episodes; the perfect storytelling. 

A soft and smooth shape that reminds the fluid water-sea motion, an overwhelming wave as the name suggests.  The Wave Bag is ingeniously designed and thought to avoid rigidity for independent women.

A Must Have! 

GG. 

Lewis Hamilton: the alpha male

Lewis Carl Davidson Hamilton, better known as Lewis Hamilton, the three times Formula One World Champion (2008, 2014, 2015) and just awarded Sportsman of the Year , has become an influencing personality not only in the world of engine and cars, but also in the fashion world.
Lewis fits perfectly the new generation alpha male: with his story and his life, he is the flawless source of inspiration for successful people, who wants to chase with lots of passion, dedication and determination his or her dreams.
He is a legend, a champion, the fastest pilot in the world, the perfect portrait that embodies an absolute determination to be on top in everything he does: the quintessential example for both men and women.

“Dare to be the greatest. Inspire, spread love, and live every day to the fullest.”

This is his motto, the recommendation and the advice that he gives to millions of fans who follow  him on social media, such as Facebook, Instagram and Snapchat where Lewis is very active.
Very often criticized for his lifestyle too much daring and eventful for a F1 driver, he is always more and more involved in the fashion and luxurious world:
since he is very passionate of watches he is testimonial of IWC Schaffhausen (unique and high performance Swiss watches) since 2013, he is also the exceptional testimonial for an Italian moto brand the MV Agusta, here in these pictures and in the video you can watch the limited edition MV Agusta Dragster RR LH44.

The German luxury fashion company Hugo Boss has dedicated an entire line to the stable, the “HUGO BOSS for Merced-Benz collection” where Lewis is the undisputed key player.
The Merces AGM Petronas sponsor Bose who “share a similar heritage, built on the principals of innovation, technology and design excellence” decided to create a personal soundtrack for Hamilton, based on real sounds of the Mercedes AGM Petronas Formula 1 Team. It’s pretty clear that music is one of the most important thing for Lewis, a fundamental component of his life, an escape from the daily routine.

Recently this year, after having saw him taking part to all the most fashion events, such as the Fashion Weeks, he became the new face of l’Oréal Paris Men Expert.
“The world’s fastest driver, Lewis Hamilton has become a legend. He likes taking risks, on the track and in his style. As the new Alpha Male by definition, he’s the ideal match for Men Expert. Modern, he’s a leader for a new generation of men for whom masculinity doesn’t mean macho – it means masculine,” said Cyril Chapuy, L’Oréal Paris Brand Global President.

“In my world, success is down to focus and efficiency. L’Oréal Men Expert has the same philosophy – and their high-tech products are made for men like me. I don’t want to waste a second and I’m used to getting the result I want. I’m proud to join the L’Oréal Men Expert club,” said Hamilton.

http://www.lewishamilton.com/#5bEszksue3CTDLCX.97
https://www.instagram.com/lewishamilton/?hl=en

GG.

Ghosts in Gucci

In Brooklyn and its surrounding areas ther are too many ghosts with popular mesh from Gucci logos. Funny ghost name GucciGhosts are everywhere: on the walls, asphalt, garbage cans and T-shirts — their authour is Trouble Andrew.
When creative director of Gucci Alessandro Michele first seen the «GucciGhosts», he did not sue the artist for the use of the logo belonging to the fashionable House, but instead invited the artist to the Gucci team.

gucci-ghost01-822x548Alessandro Michele and Trevor Andrew in Andrew’s temporary studio at the Gucci headquarters in Milan.

A successful snowboarder in the past, and the musician and street artist at present Trevor Andrew in the early 2000s played at the Olympics for Canada, and after the injury he moved to Brooklyn, where now draws graffiti.

While still a teenager, Trevor bought a Gucci watch, which became for him much more than just an accessory. First, the athlete began to paint iconography of the brand on snowboards and skateboards, denim and leather jackets, vintage items, decorative objects, and then completely went out on the streets with the slogan «Life Is Gucci» and with GucciGhost.

This extraordinary creative union has already given us an unusual images and new must-have pieces. GucciGhost is a new trend from the streets.

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Gucci Ghost Fall 2016

To know more about GucciGhost and its creator you can visit the official site of Trevor Andrew.

Photo by wwd.com  glamour.com

Voyage in Gucci’s world

It’s pretty clear that a new era began for Gucci.
Alessandro Michele, the new Creative Director since January 2015, has broken out like a dark horse in the fashion race, changing radically the concept in the stores, the approach with customers and the image of the Brand.
I had this feeling in first person, entering in the Florence flagship store; the decor, the environment and the atmosphere reflect an innovative, color, wonderful, eclectic, printed and textural approach to design

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The link with the heritage and the values of the brand were evident both in the items and in the furniture of the store, it seemed there was an imaginary connection between the museum and it, the theme of the travel were present with some chests used as table to show some colorful kerchief, as well as the iconic bamboo bag and what impressed me the most; the costant and very romantic rose herbaceous pattern, repeated on scarves and kerchief, on bags and shirts, on accessories and mannequins.

“A symbol of a delicate and poetic imagination… Flora is an icon of continuity from the precious historical archives, which revives every season with its evocative and timeless graphic power. An image inspired by fairy- tales and real life, which continues to be reinvented with passion in a myriad of variations.” http://www.guccimuseo.com/en/gucci-archive/flora

A new, fresh and romantic breeze has embraced and wrap up the Florentine Fashion House. Attention to details and impress should be the new motto for Gucci; the clients have a fascinating experience in the store, it seems to entering in a magic and colorful world, very romantic and dreamy.
The brand has also improved the customer in-store experience enhancing visitors’ position, giving the guest a specific role: he/she has to feel in his/her personal walk-in closet. Each detail of the merchandise disposition (items are not organized with a chromatic order, but a shirt could be matched to a pants or a skirt based on the visuals taste) and the materials used are very important in creating the perfect atmosphere that makes you comfortable.

GG.