A day in the life of a Fashion photographer

by Andrea Vittorio Castelli

Being a fashion show photographer is very tiring, much more than you could imagine.

Let’s took a look at a “day in the life” of your average fashion fotographer. During a fashion week, they can work up to twelve hours each day, in aggressively competitive conditions where every photographer must shoot their best moments to sell a photo and get press office approval.

X2DX210Y61zPzlYkQ4xA4e8flhM9iU1-3TBfw18GYHo.jpg

 

This has always been a competitive sector, but never more than now. A fashion photographer’s work has been transformed;   above all, they now need to be as fast and efficient as possible for both magazines and online press.  Once there were only the photographers standing at the end of the catwalk, at the special platform reserved only for them. Now they must jostle for space with video-makers, bloggers, and social media workers, as long as they have a camera. Freelance photographers, on the other hand, are people (called runners) who literally run into the agency with memory cards and deliver photos in a short time. A lot of photographers now just use their iPhones to shoot, that’s why a lot of professional photographers feel frustrated when they are using maybe a €5000 camera.

Anyway, the agencies (like Getty images) have at least two or more photographers who share the fashion shows of the day, they have their workstation at the end of the catwalk on a platform where the photographers stand.  Then photo agencies sell photographs, often to magazines, newspapers, advertising companies, event organizers, etc. The photographer, therefore, lets the agency deal with the sale, but they have to be fast:  the competition is intense!

During the shows,  taxis are not easy to find and photographers usually move from one place to another on foot, carrying their heavy equipment in their backpack. They travel by subway to avoid street traffic. When they can,  they go by scooter or bicycle or any fast vehicle, because they have to get the perfect shot before their competitors. Photographers generally know each other and respect a sort of hierarchy in positions, based above all on the importance of the agency they work for. But they can also work directly for the brand because the most important brands have their own photographers.

Another category, which has grown in recent years, is the “street style photographers.” They photograph people dressed well or in an eccentric way outside the fashion shows, like for example celebrities, bloggers or people who do not even enter the  fashion shows but  love being photographed wearing fashionable clothes because they are inspired by the new collection of the season

chiara-ferragni-street-photographer.jpg

 

Despite all this competition, some photographers have their own business. In fact, they are usually hired directly by newspapers or agencies,  and a magazine can pay a lot of money for a famous photographer. Newspapers, especially online magazines, use these photos to get their readers inspired and sometimes copy the looks. It seems that street style photographers now create trends, fashion icons and are almost as important as the fashion shows themselves because often the real fashion show takes place outside the show.

Nowadays anyone can take a picture. But just a few good photographers are left, so don’t despair,  young photographers.  There is room for you in this amazing but stressful profession!

The evolving role of music in fashion shows

By Andrea Vittorio Castelli

Like clothes, the soundtrack that accompanies a fashion show plays a crucial role in the entertainment economy, highlighting the key concepts that inspire the collection and literally dictating the rhythm, both of execution and fruition.

Originally the music chosen for fashion shows was purely for rhythm, in order to set the pace for the models. Nowadays the choice of music has evolved. It is far more stylistic, chosen to give atmosphere to a fashion show as opposed to simply set the walking speed down the stage. Music today is used to transmit the mood, pure feelings which give emotional strength to the entire work.

Looking at comparisons between several fashion shows, it is clear that each designer develops a signature over time with the music, using it to reinforce their brand identity. Designers have their preferences, they have their own taste and they react to music in the same way they design a collection. Models don’t usually walk to the beat of the music anyway and it’s more about creating a certain mood: for women’s shows, it’s more lyrical while men’s shows call for more of a rock beat.

The music elements in a fashion show can make or break the event. The style of music chosen can help to accent the designer’s collection and set the mood for the entire evening. Music really changes the experience of the show, involving the audience. For example, If the clothing is more military and dark colours perhaps a harder more rock style music would be suitable. Understanding the taste of the stylist and the identity of the brand is crucial. What they want to communicate to the audience and to the customers according to the strategy market of their season collection is the final goal.

Ladies and Gentleman, here are three music moments that have highlighted at best the creative espirit of the collections

Let’s dance!

  1. Marcelo Burlon (Fall/Winter 2018/2019)

Marcelo Burlon is not just a stylist, he is also a dj. The designer of clothing and sound coexist in the same person. The eclectic Marcelo Burlon has chosen his own sound of music in his shows. In this collection we see bad boys dressed in streetwear, and the music reflects the fashion style: it’s the soundtrack of the most famous artists that you find in the best clubs in the metropolis.

  1. Moschino (Fall/Winter 2018/2019)

The theme of the show was “Transgression,” developed through catsuits and bodysuits. On patches fixed and in some hidden points we can read words like “fetish,” “pleasure” and “pain.” In keeping with the mood, in our ears we hear the obsessive, harsh and aggressive sound of the German producer Erik Wiegand, aka Errorsmith.

   3. Louis Vuitton (Fall/Winter 2018/2019)

Beautiful music with stunning icons ( 8:34 Naomi Campbell & 8:48 Kate Moss).

The music choice of the French fashion brand is not by chance. They chose a very classic discodance track but in a modern update, reinterpreted in key Dub by a remix released in 2011. The song seems to reflect the collection, classic and modern at the same time.