A day in the life of a Fashion photographer

by Andrea Vittorio Castelli

Being a fashion show photographer is very tiring, much more than you could imagine.

Let’s took a look at a “day in the life” of your average fashion fotographer. During a fashion week, they can work up to twelve hours each day, in aggressively competitive conditions where every photographer must shoot their best moments to sell a photo and get press office approval.

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This has always been a competitive sector, but never more than now. A fashion photographer’s work has been transformed;   above all, they now need to be as fast and efficient as possible for both magazines and online press.  Once there were only the photographers standing at the end of the catwalk, at the special platform reserved only for them. Now they must jostle for space with video-makers, bloggers, and social media workers, as long as they have a camera. Freelance photographers, on the other hand, are people (called runners) who literally run into the agency with memory cards and deliver photos in a short time. A lot of photographers now just use their iPhones to shoot, that’s why a lot of professional photographers feel frustrated when they are using maybe a €5000 camera.

Anyway, the agencies (like Getty images) have at least two or more photographers who share the fashion shows of the day, they have their workstation at the end of the catwalk on a platform where the photographers stand.  Then photo agencies sell photographs, often to magazines, newspapers, advertising companies, event organizers, etc. The photographer, therefore, lets the agency deal with the sale, but they have to be fast:  the competition is intense!

During the shows,  taxis are not easy to find and photographers usually move from one place to another on foot, carrying their heavy equipment in their backpack. They travel by subway to avoid street traffic. When they can,  they go by scooter or bicycle or any fast vehicle, because they have to get the perfect shot before their competitors. Photographers generally know each other and respect a sort of hierarchy in positions, based above all on the importance of the agency they work for. But they can also work directly for the brand because the most important brands have their own photographers.

Another category, which has grown in recent years, is the “street style photographers.” They photograph people dressed well or in an eccentric way outside the fashion shows, like for example celebrities, bloggers or people who do not even enter the  fashion shows but  love being photographed wearing fashionable clothes because they are inspired by the new collection of the season

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Despite all this competition, some photographers have their own business. In fact, they are usually hired directly by newspapers or agencies,  and a magazine can pay a lot of money for a famous photographer. Newspapers, especially online magazines, use these photos to get their readers inspired and sometimes copy the looks. It seems that street style photographers now create trends, fashion icons and are almost as important as the fashion shows themselves because often the real fashion show takes place outside the show.

Nowadays anyone can take a picture. But just a few good photographers are left, so don’t despair,  young photographers.  There is room for you in this amazing but stressful profession!

CELINE 1.0: A new concept signed by Hedi Slimane

Since it was announced that Hedi Slimane would be succeeding Phoebe Philo as the creative direction of Céline, it was clear that some major changes were in program at the fashion house.

Certainly, the change of designer came with a compete new brand direction; now that Slimane has taken over as the brand’s artistic, creative, and image director, Céline deleted its entire Instagram account last September to reveal its new logo; most notably, the new Céline under Slimane comes with one key difference—the accent on the é has been erased, making the brand simply Celine. For this reason, all eyes were on Hedi Slimane last season in September as he sent his first collection for Celine down the runway at Paris Fashion Week.

Thanks to social media and live streaming technology, initial reactions to Slimane’s first show came hard and fast, in real time, as soon as the first few looks appeared on the runway. The designer proposed skinny suits, sparkly, super-short party dresses, sharp leather motorcycle jackets and that sort of minimal accessories that are as cool as they are classic. People expressed immediately feelings about the show on Twitter and Instagram, many of them could be described as disappointment, disdain, anger, disbelief and mourning for former designer Phoebe Philo’s era of the brand.

Business of Fashion’s Lauren Sherman reported that on the day of Slimane’s Celine show, a group of women — high-profile fashion editors and department store buyers among them — gathered in Paris to celebrate Philo’s Celine; on Instagram, it was even created an account for the nostalgics called @oldceline.

For some, it was a sacrilege to replace Philo’s entire aesthetic with a much younger, much showier, much less-subtle collection without keeping a single element of her work.

Furthermore, for many Celine fans, Hedi Slimane’s erasure of Phoebe Philo’s work couldn’t have arrived at a worse moment. Coming up in the middle of the Harvey Weinstein allegations that kicked the #MeToo movement into high gear — and the two-year anniversary of President Trump’s election — this is a time when women are fighting hard against the forces that would silence them by speaking out against sexual predators and running for office. 

For many people the hatred for Slimane seems particularly appropriate to our times, when Donald Trump’s politics of division, cable news and social media have made everything intensely personal and turned public discourse into a daily shouting match.

Fashion often isn’t intended to be overtly political, but it’s impossible not to see what we wear through the lens of what’s happening around us; clothes reflect the times, they are how we armor ourselves to move through the world.

On the other hand, Slimane has hit back at critics of his debut show for Celine, saying those who accused him of misogyny for showing women dressed in short skirts were conservative and puritanical, suggesting there was a homophobic undertone to the outpouring of vitriol on social networks and defended his collection arguing that the young women in his show were just liberated and carefree.

LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the luxury conglomerate that owns Celine alongside brands such as Louis Vuitton, Dior and Fendi, is confident Slimane will deliver huge sales gains. Also, LVMH chairman and chief executive officer Bernard Arnault has said he expects the “global superstar” designer to herald a doubling or tripling of Celine’s turnover within five years.

Against every expectation, taking inspiration from the old Celine — particularly the ’70s era in which it began to expand worldwide — Slimane channeled the French bourgeoisie for his F/W 2019-20, offering up his own take on daily wardrobes, while keeping them fresh for modern consumers. Public opinion considered the pieces timeless and well-made for women who start their day at 7 a.m. and know perfectly who they are and what they want. Slimane’s bourgeois woman was appreciated by the press and Fashion experts which makes us think that the powers of being at LVMH will very shortly enjoy the fruits of his labor.

Photo credits

https://fashionweekdaily.com/hedi-slimane-bad-reviews-lacoste/

http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/41186/1/celine-logo-debut-campaign-hedi-slimane-paris-fashion-week-ss19-new-york

http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/39599/1/how-hedi-slimane-could-spend-his-11-5m-dollar-kering-lawsuit-winnings

https://www.marieclaire.com.au/celine-hedi-slimane-debut

For these luxury brands, Women’s Day is every day.

Last week on March 8 we celebrated International Women’s Day, with billboards, special T-shirts, and celebrity testimonials. This day had a lot of important messages: women’s strength, uniqueness and equality for all!

Nowadays women no longer want to be appreciated only for their beauty or their ability to take care of the family. And yet women are still not paid and/or treated equally; and not only in poor or very religious countries as one might expect. No, all over the world. And it is time to pay attention to these strong messages.

That’s why many luxury brands today encourage women and support their ambitions, intelligence, strength of character and personal achievements. Nowadays it is not that important any more to be just a “beautiful picture.” More and more famous brands choose women ambassadors that reflect the spirit and character, the power and enthusiasm, and represent the company’s values in society.

For example, American actress Natalie Portman has been the leading lady of Dior fragrances since 2010, when she became the face of Miss Cherie. This choice was not made by chance. Portman has been honored with many awards and nominations not only for her acting work, but also for various humanitarian and educational activities. When Portman was asked what kind of woman Dior perfume is made for, she replied: “A woman who is fearless, strong and confident while also being very feminine and soft.”

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Another successful woman who represents Christian Dior is Marion Cottilard, starting in 2008. She made film history becoming the first person to win an Academy Award for Best actress in a non-English language performance.

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The cosmetic giant Lancôme prefers to be represented by women celebrities that have a real personality. Among the ambassadors of the brand are Julia Roberts and Kate Winslet – actresses who are distinguished by unusual beauty, but with incredible charisma and personality.

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Luxury cosmetic brand Guerlain and fashion brand Calvin Klein have been represented by Natalia Vodianova for many years. Natalia is not only a world-famous model and mother of four children, but also an active philanthropist. After supporting different charities, in 2004 she decided to set up her own Naked Heart Foundation. In 2018  Chopard decided to  support  the Naked Heart Foundation through a special edition of the Happy Hearts Collection bracelets .Ten percent of proceeds from sales of the bracelet will be donated to the charity which supports children with special needs

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French car maker Citroen chose style icon Iris Apfel in 2016, at the age of 94. Apfel is known for her vibrant wardrobe and oversized glasses, and fronted the brand’s “Driven by Style” campaign. “When you don’t dress like everyone else, you don’t have to think like everyone else” always was Iris’s credo.

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During 2018 we got more unusual brand collaborations with empowering women.

“Tiffany City HardWear” is the full name of the Tiffany & Co. campaign that takes successful pop superstar Lady Gaga as it outstanding new ambassador. When Tiffany was asked why they had chosen Lady Gaga as an ambassador, the answer was simple: her originality, creativity and courage were the characteristics that caught our attention.

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Dior’s spring campaign features Sasha Pivovarova, the model and artist who opened Maria Grazia Chiuri’s spring runway show wearing a T-shirt emblazoned with the title of Linda Nochlin’s influential essay, “Why Have There Been No Great Women Artists?” Showcasing pride in their star, the house of Dior organized private exhibit of Sasha’s works during New York fashion week.

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Escada tapped Amber Valletta for its colour-charged spring 2018 campaign, pointing to the iconic model’s “strength, authenticity and humor”. “Our brand is all about colour and empowering effect it can have”,   Escada CEO Iris Epple-Righi commented. “The campaign also marks the strong embrace of our heritage. The business was founded by a woman for women, and it began in the Seventies, a time when women in business were especially rare. This spirit of female strength balanced with playfulness is in our DNA,” she said.

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I would like to finish this article with a quote from Michelle Obama:

“There is no limit to what we,as women, can accomplish”

 

Zarina Seyidova

 

 

Foto credits:

1.https://www.fragrantica.com/news/Dior-Miss-Dior-Blooming-Bouquet-5061.html

2.http://www.justjared.com/photo-gallery/3793166/marion-cotillard-lady-dior-campaign-05/

3.https://www.pinterest.de/pin/328340629060121825/

4.http://www.artsphere.fr/en/media/8291-david-bellemere-guerlain-terracotta-2016-natalia-vodianova-artsphere

5.https://www.areadomani.it/2016/04/29/6-consigli-stile-iris-apfel/

6.https://fashionista.com/2017/04/lady-gaga-tiffany-co-campaign

7.https://fashionista.com/2018/01/dior-spring-2018-ad-campaign

8.https://www.hawtcelebs.com/amber-valletta-for-escada-winter-fall-2018-campaign/

Using the five senses of wine marketing

Nowadays people can buy anything they want, wherever and whenever they want. The market offers a huge range of choices, perhaps too many. The buying process is driven by many different factors, and marketing and communication are fundamental tools used in persuasion.

This is also true for the wine sector, where wineries are able to transmit oenologists’ work and passion to the final customer through marketing, communication and packaging. This kind of communication happens in two different moments and evokes all five senses.

iconfinder_10_2529923.pngThe first way in which the wineries transmit their message is the purchasing moment. A customer has to choose the wine bottle from a wide range of other competitors. The choice is driven firstly by sight, which is influenced by colours, shapes, writing, lights and shelf position. The customer is going to exclude “neutral” bottles and focus on the ones that capture their emotional interest. As many of us know, colours can stimulate emotions and these feelings can drive our purchasing process. Due to this, appealing colours and images on labels are strongly linked to sales.

iconfinder_hand-stop-o_1608369.png

The second sense of interacting with the customer is touch. Everyone purchasing a wine bottle is going to grab it from the shelf and feel it. At that moment the shape, the weight, the kind of paper used for the label and the reliefs, deliver a different sense of quality to the possible consumer.

The purchase is completed when the customer is satisfied with what they see and feel when they choose the bottle.

The second moment in which the wineries can use communication to distinguish themselves is in the opening and tasting of the wine. This is a ritual. A ritual in which all five senses play a part. A moment full of pathos.

icons8-hearing-52.pngThe hands have to open the bottle in an elegant way, cutting the plastic capsule and uncorking the bottle. The sounds can be different, powerful and louder for champagnes or quieter for still wines. Moreover, the customer can hear the magic gurgle of wine as it is poured from the bottle into the glass.

The glass of wine is able to show us an incredible spectrum of colours, these colours are the oenologists’ work. They are able to provide the right colour to their wine due to a knowledgeable use of grape skins during the winemaking process.

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The sense of smell is divided into a glass of wine between emotional feeling and organoleptic perception. This ritual step brings memories and feelings to the mind because memories and feelings are linked emotionally to those perceptions arising from wine flavours.

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Finally, taste. The sense that is the result of the soil and winery work, the one most strongly influenced by the other four. Wine taste delivers physically the winery’s message to the customers. Each step should be studied and developed by the winery team in order to give rise to those emotions coming from the customers’ taste experiences. 

Due to this personal reflection, I believe that winemakers and marketing and communication experts have several reasons to work together. If the wine is great, then marketing has an easier job. If communication is great too, winemakers are able to show their ability to final customers in the best way. Winemakers and marketers must not to be in competition, but they must be complementary.

Federico Dallari Bondanini

The five senses of wine marketing

Nowadays people can buy anything they want, wherever and whenever they want. The market offers a huge range of choices, perhaps too many. The buying process is driven by many different factors, and marketing and communication are fundamental tools used in persuasion.

This is also true for the wine sector, where wineries are able to transmit oenologists’ work and passion to the final customer through marketing, communication and packaging. This kind of communication happens in two different moments and evokes all five senses.

iconfinder_10_2529923.pngThe first way in which the wineries transmit their message is the purchasing moment. A customer has to choose the wine bottle from a wide range of other competitors. The choice is driven firstly by sight, which is influenced by colours, shapes, writing, lights and shelf position. The customer is going to exclude “neutral” bottles and focus on the ones that capture their emotional interest. As many of us know, colours can stimulate emotions and these feelings can drive our purchasing process. Due to this, appealing colours and images on labels are strongly linked to sales.

iconfinder_hand-stop-o_1608369.png

The second sense of interacting with the customer is touch. Everyone purchasing a wine bottle is going to grab it from the shelf and feel it. At that moment the shape, the weight, the kind of paper used for the label and the reliefs, deliver a different sense of quality to the possible consumer.

The purchase is completed when the customer is satisfied with what they see and feel when they choose the bottle.

The second moment in which the wineries can use communication to distinguish themselves is in the opening and tasting of the wine. This is a ritual. A ritual in which all five senses play a part. A moment full of pathos.

icons8-hearing-52.pngThe hands have to open the bottle in an elegant way, cutting the plastic capsule and uncorking the bottle. The sounds can be different, powerful and louder for champagnes or quieter for still wines. Moreover, the customer can hear the magic gurgle of wine as it is poured from the bottle into the glass.

The glass of wine is able to show us an incredible spectrum of colours, these colours are the oenologists’ work. They are able to provide the right colour to their wine due to a knowledgeable use of grape skins during the winemaking process.

icons8-runny-nose-90.png

The sense of smell is divided into a glass of wine between emotional feeling and organoleptic perception. This ritual step brings memories and feelings to the mind because memories and feelings are linked emotionally to those perceptions arising from wine flavours.

icons8-drinking-240.png

Finally, taste. The sense that is the result of the soil and winery work, the one most strongly influenced by the other four. Wine taste delivers physically the winery’s message to the customers. Each step should be studied and developed by the winery team in order to give rise to those emotions coming from the customers’ taste experiences. 

Due to this personal reflection, I believe that winemakers and marketing and communication experts have several reasons to work together. If the wine is great, then marketing has an easier job. If communication is great too, winemakers are able to show their ability to final customers in the best way. Winemakers and marketers must not to be in competition, but they must be complementary.

Federico Dallari Bondanini

Karl Lagerfeld’s last Chanel show was a farewell à la mode

 By Laura Dolfi

His spirit is everywhere” wrote Laurence Benaïm, journalist at Business of Fashion, after the passing of fashion’s most iconic figure, designer Karl Lagerfeld. Chanel’s emotional Fall/Winter 2019 RTW show in Paris was only a few days ago, and Benaïm’s statement couldn’t be more true. Continue reading “Karl Lagerfeld’s last Chanel show was a farewell à la mode”

5 tips for becoming a sustainable Fashion Addict

image: https://colpoditacco.me/tag/mexes/

Did you know that the fashion industry is considered the second-most polluting industry in the world? In fact this sector is responsible for 10% of CO2 total emissions and the death of 70 million trees for the production of certain fabrics such as viscose, rayon or lyocell. So as consumers, what can we do in order to protect our planet and continue to be fashion victims

We can start following these five simple tips:

  1. Choose sustainable brands. Today many brands are taking environmental problems into account and choose not to use some fabrics or leathers that can cause environmental damage. So we should be aware about which brands are sustainable and which ones are not.
  2. Buy vintage,  or rent clothes. Apart from second – hand shops, where we can buy products at cheaper prices, another recent trend is the one of renting. In fact, today, people prefer to rent online – usually through specialized websites – products they love instead of owning them. In this way, not only we can be more sustainable, but also we can satisfy our desire to wear always something new.
  3. Check material and buy good quality. During the act of purchasing, price has usually a major role. But when it comes to sustainability, we should also pay attention to what is the actual composition of what we are buying. It’s very important to check and choose clothes that are made of sustainable fabrics or materials,  also considering that a lot of materials are not healthy for our skins or health in general. 
  4. Modify the cloth that we already have in our wardrobes. What if I tell you that what you are looking for- sometimes – can be just in front of your nose? Rarely we consider the possibility to take things that we already own and to transform them into what we are looking for. Indeed, sometimes having a bit of creativity and imagination can help us to save a lot of money and to find what we are searching with a few sartorial works.
  5. Don’t buy immediately. Last but not least in our list (LOL) we need to change our mental approach and attitude when it comes to purchasing. Usually when we find something that we like, we immediately buy it without taking into account our real needs. My suggestion is not to buy immediately what you like but to think about it: if you already own something similar, see if it will be useful for you and when. Sometimes, the best thing to do is not to buy the same day, but maybe the day after. This system allows us to understand if we really want that item or not.

This small piece of advice will help all of us to be more sustainable consumers and save money for things that – maybe–  we need more. Try to follow these tips  but – of course – when we are talking about sales, you can skip number 5 and go for it!

Dior: Designer of Dreams – continuing the conversation

By Miranda Bud

The date is February 12th 1947, the location is 30 Avenue Montaigne, Paris, and Christian Dior has just unveiled his new collection. Little did he know then that it was to be the beginning of a new era in fashion and the basis for a brand that would become internationally renowned and adored. 

Continue reading “Dior: Designer of Dreams – continuing the conversation”

4 places where groceries meet luxury

Imagine you are in between fashion shows during Fashion Week (either Paris or London) and you are super hungry. What’s better than a visit to a luxury food store to clear the mind? Wouldn’t it be nice to have a take-away ready meal prepared by expert chefs and artisans, accompanied by a bottle of good wine?

Here there are the most famous high-end grocery stores in the four main fashion cities: Milano, London, Paris and New York City. 

Peck

In 1883, Francesco Peck decided to open a butcher shop in Via Orefici 2 in Milan, which at that time was already seen as the economic capital of Italy. The shop became the main supplier for Italy’s Royal Family as well as the most important families of the Milanese elite. After many renovations and relocations, in 1956 Peck moved to its current spot in via Spadari, and became the first choice for people working in offices in the center of Milan.  In fact, offering lots of ready-made meals and gourmet panini to eat at the counter of the store, Peck made people leave the company canteen and have a more delightful lunch. Nowadays Peck offers an incredible range of high end products: from raw to ready-made meals, from gastronomic treats like meat, salami, cheese, bread to pastry and a big wine cellar. The store has really anything you can ask for.

In 2013 Peck was bought by the Marzotto family and today is still in line with the times,  and is still a symbol of the city of Milan.

Peck is located in via Spadari 9, Milan.

 

https://www.flawlessmilano.com/en/peck/

Fortnum & Mason

Founded in 1707 by William Fortnum and Hugh Mason, this luxury department store has been a landmark in the city of London for more than 300 years. From its beginning, F&M’s reputation was based on fine food such as chocolate, coffee and tea, but also,  most importantly, on the famous Scottish eggs. According to legend, these eggs were created by Fortnum and Mason themselves as a ready-made meal for people who wanted to have a comfy food.

Tea collections are maybe the best-selling items in the store, with prices that go from £5 to above £50. They are in fact very delicious in terms of taste and pretty outside, with beautiful packaging and full of color. The hamper is another icon of this London grocery store: a sort of basket full of fine food, gifts, wine and delights seen as a nice gift for the holidays like Easter, Christmas or even Mother’s Day. In this case prices for the hampers vary depending on what kind of food and wine are inside, going above £400 for most expensive ones.

You can find the original Fortnum & Mason store in 181 Piccadilly, London.

 

https://www.fortnumandmason.com

La Grande Épicerie de Paris

Owned by LVMH, la Grande Épicerie de Paris is housed inside the Bon Marché Rive Gauche, an historic department store founded in 1839 by Aristide Boucicaut.

Nowadays it is a great spot to do a bit of high-end grocery shopping, with products ranging from vegetables to meat, from bakery to pastry and so on. Furthermore, the store is known for its cellar offering an exclusive selection of wine and spirits from premium access to very high-end ones. A curious and special addition to the store is the exclusive baking, patisserie and gastronomy workshop for both adults and children to help them produce unique recipes from unique products. Inside the store you will find artisans working and delighting you with their savoir-faire, making your stay an incredible luxury experience.

La Grande Épicerie de Paris is located at 38, rue de Sèvres, Paris.

 

https://flashmatin.fr/traiteur-la-grande-epicerie-de-paris
https://www.lvmh.com

Dean & DeLuca

The original store was opened in 1977 in SoHo by Joel Dean and Giorgio DeLuca, bringing a successful brand-new shift to grocery shopping.

Nowadays Dean & DeLuca is a brand known internationally for luxury food – in fact the brand has eight stores in the United States and almost 20 abroad. The emporium sells every kind of gourmet food from chocolate to meat and seafood, from oils and vinegars to dressing and sauces. Dean & DeLuca is also very much known for their flowers and the smell they make throughout the store. Their best sellers are mostly snacks and sweets, like for example their Chocolate and Cinnamon Babka ($28), some special taste popcorn such as the Caramel and Chipotle Popcorn ($2.75) or the Acacia Black Truffle Honey ($18.50).

The original  Dean & DeLuca store is still in 560 Broadway, Manhattan, New York City.

 

https://www.standard.co.uk/go/london/restaurants/new-york-s-finest-deli-dean-deluca-coming-to-mayfair-a3309806.html
https://www.pinterest.it/deananddeluca/pins/

 

By Carolina Panzera

Antonello da Messina: a change in perspective

 

Imagine you’ve just arrived in Milan, and you’re trying to decide what to do and see first.  Allow me to help you. The new exhibition in Palazzo Reale of works by  Antonello da Messina is in  the perfect location for you to visit once you’ve seen the famous piazza Duomo.

Let me introduce the artist first. As his name suggests, he was born in Messina (Sicily) in 1430, at a time when  Messina  was a very busy route for Mediterranean commerce. This helped Antonello to get in touch with different kinds of art and people. He was one of the most important painters of the 15th century. His works and skills were able to influence even painters of the Venetian Renaissance.

When you enter  the exhibition, you are greeted by a sign on  a red wall saying “dentro la pittura del maestro del Quattrocento italiano.” Translated, this means you are “inside the painting of the master of the Italian 1400s.”  From the moment you enter,  and you start admiring those magnificent works of art, you get completely stunned.

Antonello da Messina’s portaits of human beings  are so realistic. They give you the impression that you are staring at a physical person.   They are capable of  transferring the emotions and the thoughts of the subject directly to the viewer.  Giving you the wish, the desire to talk with them.

http://artunframed.com/Gallery/shop/portrait-of-a-young-man-8/

Continuing the tour of  his artistic life, you will find a lot of Christian religious drawings representing the Virgin, angels and Christ during biblical events. One of the most important is “Annunciata di Palermo,” which is conserved at the  palazzo Abatellis in Palermo. It describes the Virgin’s reaction to the annunciation of the Angel telling her she will be the mother of Jesus.

https://www.studentville.it/appunti/antonello-da-messina/

You can’t leave before you have admired “San Girolamo nello Studio” one of the masterpieces of the European Renaissance. It is in the National Gallery in London. The great skills of the painter are clear in this work. He was so capable of playing with  colours and shades, giving  the painting a great harmony and deepness thanks to his knowledge of perspective. He truly cared about details, even the smallest ones, like the books on the shelves, the peacock or the lion hidden in the shadows. The saint, as represented by Antonello, is truly  focused on humanistic studies. Antonello had a great taste for the interior rooms.

So, what are you waiting for? Come and get to know one of the most fascinating artists ever. I am sure you won’t regret it.

Cristiano Amato

Breitling and the motor industry: an historic relationship

UnknownSwiss watchmaker Breitling and the famous British luxury car manufacturer Bentley have worked together since 2003. This fruitful friendship started when Breitling was chosen to design an onboard clock for Bentley’s iconic Continental GT. The collaboration continued with some highly (missing word here) releases and an entire Breitling for Bentley line of automotive-inspired watches.

As George Kern, CEO of Breitling said in a press release: Bentley and Breitling share lots of values. Both brands are known for quality, performance and design excellence, and both can build on powerful legacies.. It’s an ideal partnership.”

The deal between Breitling and Bentley has its roots in Breitling’s history of collaboration with the motor industry.. The watchmaker’s  dashboard chronograph for the aviation industry was created in 1931, and was later adapted for car dashboards. There is a personal relationship between Breitling and Bentley, that goes back  70 years with Willie Breitling, the visionary inventor, who  in the 1940s  was often seen  driving between Geneva and La Chaux-de-Fonds in one of his Bentleys.

Bentley can boast success on the race tracks. Between 1924 and 1930, the famous Bentley Boys won  the Le Mans 24Hours five times. Those successes are not just only in the past.  In  2003, Bentley went  back to Le Mans, ranking first and second. In this famous race, Breitling was team Bentley’s sponsor with a limited chronograph, the Bentley Le Mans, created for celebrating its victory.

This time, the watches made for Bentley will be part of the base offer for  every client and will be presented as a Breitling for Bentley collection. The first watch to be created is Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Bentley Racing Green, characterized by an engraving “Bentley” with a  design  inspired by the historical “Blower” Bentley dashboard from the 1929.

As part of this renewed partnership, to help Bentley celebrate its 100th anniversary, the Swiss watch-maker will create a limited edition available for all.

Adrian Hallmark, Bentley Motors CEO said in an official statement: “As we approach our centenary year, we will, of course, be celebrating our past, but, more importantly, we will be looking toward the future with passion for innovation.”

Partnership between Breitling and Bentley is based  mostly on their similar heritage, their passion, their values, but most importantly they share commitment to technological excellence, expertise of craftsmanship and a pioneering spirit.

Breitling is a longstanding expert, creator of luxurious and elegant watches which attracts a wider target. While exploring the possibility offered by this collaboration, Breitling and Bentley are looking forward to sharing new and unique models and for discerning men and women around the world.

Cioncia Carola 

Sources:

http://www.auto.it/news/saloni/francoforte/2017/08/30-1014308/nuova_bentley_continental_gt_effetti_speciali_con_il_display_rotante/

https://www.breitling.com/it-it/news/details/breitling-and-bentley-driving-together-into-the-future-23898

How can luxury brands engage Gen Z? Chanel has a new idea

Nowadays Millennials are no longer the “favorite child” of luxury brands, because  Generation Z is becoming the spending force to be reckoned with. Mllennials and Generation Z represented around 30% of the luxury goods market in 2016, and they will grow over 40% by 2025 especially due to the financial maturity of today’s Gen Z’ers, according to a study by  Deloitte. 

So, how can luxury brands engage Millennials and expecially Gen Z consumers? Continue reading “How can luxury brands engage Gen Z? Chanel has a new idea”

E-commerce in China: Tmall’s luxury pavilion sets the pace

Unlike other luxury goods markets, e-commerce plays a huge role in China, given that the market size of cross-border retail e-commerce sales there is expected to exceed $140 billion by 2021 (according to eMarketer).

China already accounts for about one-third of global luxury goods sales, and its share is growing. In general – according to Bain & Co –  in 2017 sales of luxury goods hit 142 billion yuan and Chinese shoppers accounted for 32% of the 262 billion euro global luxury market.

And these figures are expected to increase: China’s share of global luxury spending is seen reaching 44% of the global market by 2025 (source: McKinsey).

(Source: LaPresse/AP)

Considering the profile of the average Chinese consumer, their enthusiasm for buying online is not actually surprising: they are young (age dropped from 35 to 25) and way more connected than their Western counterparts (China is the most connected country in the world!).

Moreover, Chinese consumers approach the online channel as if they were going to the mall with their friends: this is why the aim of Chinese e-tailers has always been to provide a rich alternative to traditional shopping.

Luxury brands have started to understand the importance of this channel and tried to enter this world full of new opportunities.

The clearest example yet of how Chinese luxury shoppers can flock to specially-tailored online experiences is Tmall, a B2C online retail site operating in China and owned by the Alibaba Group, with more than 550 millions of customers.

                   (Source: Journal du Luxe)

When asked who is their target client, the answer is clear: in between 26 and 30 years old, with a bachelor degree, married with children and pets.

The average annual expenditure of the Chinese consumer on Tmall is about 90,000 yuan (almost 15,000 euros ) per year. Their clients love shopping online and – especially –  Made in Italy luxury products.

Considering all these factors, in 2017 they decided to open their luxury pavilion: an exclusive space, invitation-only, where brands can sell directly to consumers and have full control over the experience. It is considered the most important platform online for millennials (44%) and today carries more than 80 brands including Valentino, Versace, Ermenegildo Zegna, Moncler, Moschino, Giuseppe Zanotti, and Maserati.

Last December, Tmall unveiled a new app with a sort of Maison store. The aim of this new format – as Lili Chen, general manager of Tmall luxury pavilion recently said in an interview – is to “let luxury brands digitally embody their unique brand stories, heritage, savoir-faire, and innovations, as well as their in-store atmosphere and energy. Moreover, it is a way to help them engage with online luxury consumers – mainly the ‘always connected’ generation – and provide them with the best tailored, immersive shopping experience close to the one that they would get by shopping in a brick-and-mortar store”.

This is the ultimate goal of the Chinese online giant. As Jack Ma – owner of Alibaba – once said: “We were able to sell online 100 Maserati and 100 Mercedes in 18 seconds. (…) The Canadian Prime Minister called me and asked me to help them sell their famous lobsters. In 5 hours we sold 96,000, and in Vancouver, they ran out of lobsters for three weeks, but Chinese people were thrilled.”

Now it’s up to brands to understand the magnitude of this channel and the possibilities connected to it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

How Milan’s top hotels are wooing non-guests with these five luxury experiences

If you have ever been to the United States, you have probably spent some time dining at a hotel restaurant or having a drink at the lobby bar. On the other hand, if you live in Italy, it has always been quite hard to see Italian hotels as places to spend leisure time if you’re not staying there as a guest. Continue reading “How Milan’s top hotels are wooing non-guests with these five luxury experiences”

How Kering became the world’s most sustainable luxury company

It’s January 22, 2019.

Every year the Canadian magazine specialized in sustainability, Corporate Knights, ranks the top 100 most sustainable companies in the world. The official ranking is released at the World Economic Forum, one of the most important economic and political meetings for almost 50 years. The magazine’s analysis includes an evaluation of more that 7500 different companies with over $1 million  in revenues, through 21 key performance factors: innovation capacity, percentage of women on board, waste productivity, employee management and supplier performance.

The index is seen as one of the leading benchmarks for corporate sustainability world-wide, so being ranked is a valuable recognition. Moreover, according to the Branding Institute, the Corporate Knights’ Global 100 Index is the best-ranking index of the world’s most sustainable corporations, for its relevant methodology, insight and trustworthiness.

The world’s most sustainable fashion luxury company is: Kering Group.

Beaten only by a Danish bioscence company, Chr. Hansen Holding, the French group has an overall score of 81,55% out of 100%. This nomination makes Kering the most sustainable company in the fashion industry and the second most sustainable company in the world. Kering’s brands Gucci, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, Pomellato and Brioni have made luxury industry history. Now they are continuing to make history by introducing a new core value: sustainability.

The group has made an incredible effort last year, jumping from the 47th place in 2018 index to the 2nd. Inditex, founded by Amancio Ortega Zara owner, and Adidas are the only two other companies in the luxury, apparel and accessories industry which made the list with 54th place and 84th place respectively.

So why Kering, among all the others, has been named?

The group is crafting tomorrow’s luxury starting from three pillars that shape the French company’s 2025 Sustainability Strategy: Care, Collaborate, Create. These pillars have been included into the Environmental Profit & Loss, EP&L, which guides the company’s choices in order to reduce its environmental impact.

The EP&L is applied in three stages: establishment of environmental impacts, establishment of models for diverse and complex group operations and supply chains and support in decision-making. This work tool allows the group, from the beginning of the supply chain, to have insight on their cost impact, to highlight the challenges, the opportunities and understanding how the company can work on its environmental impact on the planet. The fashion industry is responsible of the 20% of global water waste and of 10% of carbon dioxide emissions, making it the second-most polluting sector in the world.

This circle has to be changed.

And Kering has been the first one in fashion luxury, across the entire group, to introduce working tools that can mark the supply chain and develop a better strategy for the company and for the planet, creating a “win-win deal.” The French company in fact acquired more than 40% of its products from sustainable certificated sources, and 60% of its board is made up of women.

“Luxury and sustainability are one and the same

François-Henri Pinault, Kering president and CEO.

Posted and written by Martina Tarantini.

www.kering.com

www.forbes.it

www.lofficielitalia.com

www.fashionunited.uk

www.corporateknights.com

Turn the winter slopes into your catwalk!

  1. At most luxury ski resorts, sport has to marry elegance, and luxury has to meet functionality. The inspiration for the outfit? Skiing, mountains and everything that makes you immediately picture yourself getting a winter tan on the terrace of a chalet on the snowy peaks.

Here is a list of seven of the most glamorous ski apparel brands sported on the slopes of top luxury ski resorts like Aspen, Sankt Moritz and Courchevel.

In a sporty environment that has been drenched with luxury living since day one, you can count on paying quite a bit. 

  1. Chanel
https://www.chanel.com/it_IT/moda.html

In this new Alpine-inspired collection, Chanel codes pop out of the sporty lines, the Norwegian soft sweaters, the soft padded and luxe down jackets, ski suits, overalls, fur boots and backpacks all sporting the double C.

2. Bogner

Bogner is still bringing the most stylish outfits on the snow, proposing style and function on the mountains since 1932. The German brand traces its heritage to World Cup racing, and it’s been the official outfitter of the German Ski Association since 1952.

3. Perfect moment sport

Perfect Moment offers retro silhouettes, bold athletic colors and a high performance lifestyle clothing that can be worn on and off the slopes. This brand is also dedicated to supporting the protection of the Arctic Polar Bear.

4. D2ski

https://www.dsquared2.com/it/skicollection_section

The Dsquared2 ski collection brings its strong attitude to the chicest slopes and après ski clubs. The collection proposes men’s and women’s pieces designed for snowboarders, skiers and especially for those who prefer the apres ski scene.

5. Moncler

https://www.moncler.com/it/

Moncler in its Haute Montagne collections always presents a whole winter wardrobe, from ski to city essentials. Creating a sleek and sporty collection, in which vintage inspired forms meet tech detail-driven function.

6. Louis Tranker

Luis Trenker is inspired by the clothes that characterize the Alto-Adige tradition. Thanks to the combination of natural materials with an innovative design, the brand ensures at the same time an atmosphere of authenticity and distinction.

6.Goessl

Salzburg has always loved and honoured its folk costumes, but some folkwear manufacturers more than others nurture this tradition and combine it successfully with modern elements. One of the absolute greatest amongst folk-fashion manufacturers is Goessl.

7. Ammann

Comfortable, cheeky and fashionable, these shoes convince with a mix of classique design, fahionable colors and great comfort.

No more excuses not to be stylish on the slopes!

 

Time for fashion to say “I’d rather go naked than wear FAKE fur”

By Federica Pesci

If I think about my grandmothers, one of the first things that comes to my mind is the fur. I’ve seen thousands of pictures of these amazing women wearing long fur coats and smiling like crazy. For them, fur was a status symbol, an arrival point.

Nowadays, however, everything has changed. The value of this garment as a luxury item is rapidly decreasing, thanks to the anti-fur message amplified by social media (where the fear of being attacked due to a “wrong” belief is really high) and a new awareness among millennial consumers.  As Sandra Campos, chief executive at Diane Von Furstenberg, said: “We don’t need real fur to have a status symbol anymore”. The brand became 100% fur-free in early October 2018.

But the anti-fur movement isn’t so recent. In 1997 Calvin Klein decided to remove fur from its collections, and in the same period, PETA launched a campaign called “Rather go naked than wear fur” (that is still used) promoted by the most famous models in the world (like Naomi Campbell, Elisabetta Canalis, Pink, Khloe Kardashian…). Then, since the 2000s, a lot of brands started to remove fur, impressed by sabotage made by activists. For example, in September 2017 Burberry’s London Fashion Week was interrupted by 250 protesters; a year after, the English brand decided to be fur-free.

peta fur naomi

But all of these changes involved also bigger realities. First, Yoox Net-A-Porter Group became fur-free in 2017, and then the city of San Francisco established that from this January all fur sales would be banned.

The impact of all of this was massive. One of the pioneers of the movement, Stella McCartney, said: “It’s about time that the fashion industry woke up to the fact that fur is cruel, barbaric and simply incredibly old-fashioned and unfashionable”. And added that all of this anti-fur trend seems that “the entire industry [is] working together for the betterment of the planet and the better of animal welfare”.

Anyway, we all know that leather and shearling are also animal products, so the companies aren’t so “fur-free” and “animal free” as they claim. But as Dan Mathews, senior vice president of PETA, said “It’s definitely a big step. We would love to see people design without leather and without any animal products. But what’s happening now as these designers have shed their fur lines, it starts the ball rolling.”

fur free protestant

But is fake fur the right choice?

From the point of view of a lot of designers, like Karl Lagerfeld and Dries Van Noten, fake fur is incredibly polluting.

The IFF (International Fur Federation) is trying to convince designers and suppliers to leave fake fur and use fur again. The CEO, Mark Oaten, explained “Our product is totally natural, and even if it has chemicals added to it, it biodegrades. […] The other product is made of fibres and materials which will not biodegrade.” And for people who say  that tanning fur is toxic, Oaten clarified that the industry is studying new ways to create a biodegradable tan.

And this is not the only issue.

First of all, consider the fate of the workers in the fur sector. “People who want to suppress the fur industry — if they have enough money to make an income for all the people who work in that industry, OK,” said Lagerfeld in an interview. If the sector dies, all these specialized labourers are going to “die” with it.

Then, as Francois Souchet (Project Manager at The Ellen MacArthur Foundation) said, another aspect to consider is water. Fake fur is made of synthetic materials that “shed plastic microfibers, when they are used and washed, in the environment. Those microfibers are too small to be filtered at any point of the water treatment system…and basically, all those microfibers end up in our oceans contributing to ocean plastic pollution”.

fakefur-poster

At least, data are clear. In 2017 fur generated global retail sales of $30 billion, according to figures supplied by IFF. The emerging markets, like China or Russia, are the biggest “fan” of this fabric.

So, is it really possible to remove it from the fashion world? And is it the right choice?

The future will judge.

 

 

sources:
The Fur Debate
https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/why-fashions-anti-fur-movement-is-winning

 

A Luxury Crowdfunding experience in Kickstarter

A unique example of Luxury experience business for me was the Crowdfunding. “Crowdfunding is a way of raising money to finance projects and businesses. It enables fundraisers to collect money from a large number of people via online platforms”. This system brings together a variety of backers/investors and entrepreneurs who want to sponsor the product. In this manner, a person who would like to sponsor his/her product has the chance to look for many investors on a single platform and to earn a few dollars or thousands of dollars, depending on how much the product is valued.

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One of the most popular and famous crowdfunding websites is Kickstarter. The company was created in 2008 by Perry Chen, Yancey Strickler and Charles Adler and the motto for their website was and still is: “Help bring creative projects to life”. Nowadays, more than 141,036 projects have been successfully funded with pledges of more than 3.5 billion dollars, and 14,382,333 million total backers have sponsored the products.
With crowdfunding we can discuss a unique example of e-commerce because any one person can buy or sponsor his/her own product simultaneously, which is not possible if we think about the most famous e-commerce websites such as Amazon. On these websites a person can only buy a product. I have personally felt the effect of e-commerce from the creation of my product called Eskak. Eskak is the first Luxury model of modular 3d-assembled chess pieces which were developed by myself and my business partner. The chessboard and pawns are made of natural plywood, and have been carved using the latest generation laser machine and then refined through a process of filing and elimination of the excess wood.

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By placing it in Kickstarter, we were suddenly face-to-face with the many rules and regulations which inhabit the e-commerce/crowdfunding world. On the website, a person who would like to get their product sponsored must first choose their funding goal. The funding goal consists of the amount of money that a creator needs to successfully complete their product. Secondly, the person must choose the time limit for acquiring this money (from 1 to 60 days). The creators of the website suggest choosing the “30 day” option because the fewer the days, the more likelihood of achieving the desired goal. 

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What makes Kickstarter a particularly catchy platform is its functioning method. Kickstarter is based on the rule of all or nothing. If a project does not reach the pre-established goal, the funds do not get collected and the backers will not receive the product. In this manner both parties are protected, and the risks are minimized.

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In this commercial chain, there are two different parties: the backers who pledge the money in order to allow the creation and the sale of the product, and the creator who is the person behind the specific product. The creator also decides the funding goal and the rewards that he/she will sell. The rewards are the representation of sharing a piece of a product with the backers. Similar to the arrangements of a website such as Amazon, the rewards are usually limited editions to entice buyers to acquire a product that they will only find on this platform for a short period of time. As all the websites that offer these opportunities, Kickstarter applies a fee: a 5% fee for the collected funds and approximately 3-5% for the fees to process the payment.

Francesco De Leo

Sources: https://www.kickstarter.com

Picture 1,2,3,4: Francesco De Leo