Another Fashion week just come to an end here in Milan but, compared to the previous one in September, a gentle wind of change seems to have blown on this Milano Moda Donna. The weather in fashion is always unpredictable but the heavy rain on the Milanese week seemed to be on a long-term forecast.
That’s because, according not only to rumors, Milan was becoming the weakest between all the Fashion weeks: the feeling was that Milan was not able to reinvent itself and it was loosing appealing if compared to New York or Paris Fashion week.
Some of the problems with Italian fashion today are part and parcel of wider issues.
This year, Italy is experiencing its third financial downturn since 2008, according to the Organisation for Economic Cooperation and Development. The economy, the third largest in the eurozone, has shrunk by 0.4 per cent in 2014 – and while the revenue of the fashion industry bucked the trend to grow 3 per cent, according to information released earlier this month by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (which organises and promotes the country’s fashion industry), it is well below a “great leap” originally estimated.
If we step back to the feedback about last MFW, in September 2014, it was really a disaster:
The Milan show schedule was hell. Compressed over just five days, it made the life of editors and buyers complicated to say the least, forcing to adopt an inhuman pace and to make some drastic choices. It was quite simply impossible to see everything, plus poor logistics made things even more complicated.
So what did really change and happen during this FW?
Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana worked hard on the organization of the week in order to avoid difficulties and complaining as happened last edition, not at all an easy job: 68 fashion shows, 76 presentations (75 brands) for a total of 151 collections. Also as evidence of Camera’s commitment for the young, for the first time was up to the 4 winners of Next Generation to open the fashion week at theTeatro Vetra, new location for the Milan fashion shows.
Young talented was also the theme of another event organized by Elle China.
The Castello Sforzesco, in the heart of Milan, was the location of a very special event, which wanted to celebrate the excellence of 16 young designers from China and the essence of the woman Elle.
Elegant and refined, the idea of femininity has been reinterpreted by promising designers through the creation of 16 skirts, then put on display during the evening. The exhibition is called Impression of China Fashion and was created by the magazine Elle China that, in view of Expo 2015, wanted to bring in Italy all the elegance and quality craftsmanship of China.
They created an ideal link between Shanghai and Milan, discovering Chinese brands that mix innovation, European luxury and design Oriental twist, such as the famous brand of underwear Embry Form born in Hong Kong, and the glasses BOLON, appreciated by all lovers of fashion.
So more space to the younger and also to technology and digital communication: The fashion week, in fact, was followed day by day on big screens in Corso Vittorio Emanuele and through the site http://www.milanomodadonna.it with video streaming of fashion shows and photo gallery of the collections. We can’t say that those improvements have deeply transformed the MFW affecting the entire business (the turnover of Italian fashion is still expected to grow very slowly in the first half of 2015 (+ 1.5%) with prospects for faster growth in the second half).
Every improvement contributed somehow to turn away that general feeling of “dusty” and stagnant, so It can be considered the first step of a long march toward the growth not only for what concerns economic rise but also in terms of creativity and innovation.