February 25th is the date that stipulates the official start of Milan fashion week fall winter 2015-2016. 68 fashion shows, 76 presentations plus other events reaching the amounts of 151 collections. Mario Boselli, CNMI President is confident to be in a positive period that change for the better the forecasts and he thinks that the balance of this season trade surplus will reach 20 milion Euros. The collections will be presented in six days with a very organised and well structured schedule that intends retain all the press and buyers till the end of the week.
Many important shows were placed starting from the first day but it’s pretty obvious that the most awaited collection was the Gucci one, the first presented by the new creative director Alessandro Michele. His Fall/Winter collection felt like a very sharp break from Giannini’s Gucci. His girl is an ingenue with an eccentric side, one who looks like she’s picked out her clothes at vintage stores, and mixed them with handfuls of rings, chunky rimmed glasses, and fur-lined horse-bit loafers.
The ready-to-wear ranged far and wide. It included colorful coats with fur cuffs and military inspiration; fluttering, shapeless botanic print dresses; and some transparent unlined pieces that transmitted audacity to the collection.
Alessandro Michele has a decidedly more romantic outlook.
Speaking about romance the focus shifts on two other shows that embraced this theme with totally different approaches.
Alberta Ferretti was looking to the past and more precisely to that Reinassance period that is admired by everyone in the world. Opulence and richness were the main drivers of the collection translated in velvet thigh-high boots, chiffon dresses, mohair coats and long dress coats in brocade. Jewellry were replaced with precious collars and golden embroideries.
On the other hand Francesco Scognamiglio presented a woman on the edge between gravity and romanticism who wears long black pieces decorated with flounces, ethereal dress in sheer silk or enriched with appliques. The predominant color of the colection was pink which floods the runway in the shape of quilted-leather corollas, printed flowers buds or 3D organdie petals.
Pink spots were also present on another important Milanese catwalk, N°21. Alessandro dell’Acqua started from the Japanese culture of origami and layering to build up his collection totally alligned to the modern and always up to date image of the brand.
The styles were various, included impalpable dresses, silk layered skirts combined with minimalist sweatshirts, precious and cozy knitwear and some colourful prints.