It’s official! It has finally been released the name of the new Gucci creative director. It is Alessandro Michele, forty years old, from Rome, former designer of Richard Ginori, company belonging to Pinault’s Kering Group, in Gucci since 2002 and right-hand men of, by this time, Gucci’s former creative director Frida Giannini.
She left the company some days ago after her departure was announced in December and had been programmed in March after the presentation of the Woman Collection in Milan.
Marco Bizzarri, Gucci new president and CEO, who replaced Patrizio di Marco, Giannini’s husband, spent words to praise the work of the fomer designer in her 9 years at the head of the creative team, recognizing the contribution that she led to the company. Today officially opens a new era for the maison.
For sure the last Men collection presented few days ago in Milan, “created thanks to the commitment and the ability of the creative team and thanks to the effective collaboration between the design team and the production” as Mr Bizzari reported, in just 5 days was one of the most expected. And it seems to have fallen short of expectations showing that the brand is ready to take a new direction.
The look was definitelly more androgynous than the previous men shows; on the runway you could barely tell if the models were men or women. Silk blouses, bows, neck tie, a sheer lace shirt were the protagonists of the catwalk, stating an “ambiguous” style and asserting a gender-bending trend so close to Riccardo Tisci, who was, according to many voices, among the eligible candidates to succeed Frida Giannini. It was also evident in the collection a clear reference to the French style; overcoats, berrets, capes, shirts and the use of red, white and blue reminded to some characters from France’s cultural history such as poets and artists.
It appeared to be a tribute to French people and a grant to that sense of #jesuischarlie after the recent terror attacks in Paris.
Different opinions and different feelings about this change of direction of the maison are more than legitimate and someone could also regret the departure of Giannini, but only time will tell us if this renovation of the brand will be profitable and also well accepted from critics. We just have to wait the 25th of February, the day when Alessandro Michele will present his first collection for the brand during Milan Fashion Week.